[condor]

Originally Posted by sunilch

From a setup perspective, hardly anything different is needed except for the Meter (for new connections) which is once in a while in short supply at MGL in Mumbai. Usual govt functioning speed I suppose..

If setup is hardly anything different, then why is @Jaguar facing issues ?

You guys are missing the point I have been trying to make. Or the issue that @Jaguar is facing.

Will leave this at this point.

[sunilch]

Originally Posted by condor

If setup is hardly anything different, then why is @Jaguar facing issues ?

You guys are missing the point I have been trying to make. Or the issue that @Jaguar is facing.

Will leave this at this point.

That issue simply seems to be with the Faber Burner Jets in place. So hardly anything that Gas supply guys can do except for trying out a faster rate of gas output. Perhaps @Jaguar can try another cooking range to see if the issue still remains.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by condor

The working quantities of air and gas mix outside the burner - else it would have been a different situation, isnt it

You can't just squirt gas into air and light it, unless you want a big, sooty candle flame. It must be mixed with air first, or squirted in such a way that it mixes, in exactly the right proportions.

Originally Posted by adisan

If the burner itself were to take time to heat up, the cooking time will increase. Basically it would be a waste of fuel. First the burner has to heat up, then the vessel, then the contents in the vessel.

Heating the body of the burner is irrelevant. It is the flame that heats the food, not radiated heat from the burner. The fact that it, and pan support, get hot is incidental.

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by condor

If setup is hardly anything different, then why is @Jaguar facing issues ?

You guys are missing the point I have been trying to make. Or the issue that @Jaguar is facing.

Will leave this at this point.

Originally Posted by sunilch

That issue simply seems to be with the Faber Burner Jets in place. So hardly anything that Gas supply guys can do except for trying out a faster rate of gas output. Perhaps @Jaguar can try another cooking range to see if the issue still remains.

The pressure of PNG is much lesser than that of CNG. All hobs are by-default setup for CNG and therefore come with smaller jets. When you use the same jet with PNG, the flame is very feeble and goes off when you turn the knob to sim. So as part of the installation, the Gail technicians re-bore the original jets to make them bigger. But this is done in a crude manner and the results vary. What I am looking for are jets of different sizes to experiment with and find the one that I like.

PS: This is not an issue with Faber. They say they only provide jets tuned for LPG and want me to contact the Gas service provider. Elica also said the same. This could be a Bangalore-specific answer given by the local Faber service center/dealer since PNG is fairly new here. @sunlich is it possible for you to check with your local gas stove/hob service technician about jets tuned for PNG?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

The pressure of PNG is much lesser than that of CNG. All hobs are by-default setup for CNG and therefore come with smaller jets. When you use the same jet with PNG, the flame is very feeble and goes off when you turn the knob to sim. So as part of the installation, the Gail technicians re-bore the original jets to make them bigger. But this is done in a crude manner and the results vary. What I am looking for are jets of different sizes to experiment with and find the one that I like.

PS: This is not an issue with Faber. They say they only provide jets tuned for LPG and want me to contact the Gas service provider. Elica also said the same. This could be a Bangalore-specific answer given by the local Faber service center/dealer since PNG is fairly new here. @sunlich is it possible for you to check with your local gas stove/hob service technician about jets tuned for PNG?

You are right.

In our KAFF cooking range (imported from Italy), there is a provision to change the inlet aperture. While installing the range, the service technitian said that piped gas is at much lower pressure compard to LPG in cylinders, so aperture adjustments are needed to increase the size for PNG and decrease it for LPG.

Regarding jets for gas burners, they come in various sizes. The smallest for the small burner and the largest for commercial use, and every size inbetween.

[carboy]

I have a question about the bottom vegetable/crisper compartment of the fridge.

As of now, I keep vegetables in it mostly, but my cook has started having knee pain & is unable to bend much to open & take stuff from that compartment.

So I was wondering I should keep stuff she doesn't use in that compartment & use 2 parts above to store vegetables & other stuff I was storing in that compartment.

Any issues with this?

[Amrik Singh]

Only that mostly the depth of bottom compartment is less to accommodate Compressor on its rear side. You may not be able to place anything else there. Again, the height of vegetable / fruit box is considerably high which will make you adjust the height of shelves. Generally no item of similar item is placed on shelves. Yes bottles may match it, but they get a place in door.
Technically there is no problem in keeping the fruit box on upper shelf if you can manage other items within Refrigerator.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Actually, I have never understood this.

I was told that we keep fruit, veg, etc, in that box at the bottom, because it would get too cold on the shelves, and get spoilt. But cold air falls, right? So I'm puzzled.

One thing about the vegetable box, though, is humidity. It's more moist in the closed box. Stuff dries out quicker on the shelves.

[msdivy]

We are looking at the large capacity refrigerator and found the 670L, 2 door Samsung (RT65K7058BS) to meet the requirements. Our concern is this model was released in 2016 and might be missing recent power consumption advancements. The dealer confirmed that the 2021 manufactured unit will be installed.

Alternate to this is going for 3-door/4-door models, which for similar dimensions offer less capacity & cost more. Need guidance in making the decision.

[Thad E Ginathom]

I loved my Liebherr fridge that I bought in London. I notice they are now selling here. I just worry that. although I don't see that anything much should go wrong with a fridge, if it does, it might be like owning a fancy foreign car with no easy parts/service.

Anyway, still tempted.

[JMaruru]

I am looking for instant water heater for my home in B'lore which has solar water heater installed. At times, coz of the cloud cover we do NOT get sufficiently warm water and hence to compensate the same would like to run the solar water through a instant water heater. NOT keen on storage water heaters, as am running the solar water through them.

So, now I got to know that they come in 1L and 3L capacities and the power rating remains the same at 3KW.

1. What's the pros and cons of selecting between 1L and 3L?
2. What model/brands are reliable?

Please advise!

[wolfsnare24]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

to compensate the same would like to run the solar water through a instant water heater.

I’ve helped do something similar, and it’s a relatively simple procedure. We used the reasonable-and-quality 1L Racold Pronto Neo and ran the solar hot water plumbing to it just before it reached the hot water inlet in the hot/cold/shower/tap mixer.

It’s a very good supplement, and be mindful to ensure there is a cold water mixer and it is not direct to tap as sometimes the water heats up much more than what’s comfortable with the geyser on, but it’s too cold without the geyser.

You won’t be needing more than 1L size as the panels will drastically drop your water pressure, and the flow rate would be reduced.

This is effectively the bathroom equivalent of the CNG/Petrol hybrid that many cabs use nowadays

[wolfsnare24]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

I loved my Liebherr fridge that I bought in London. I notice they are now selling here. I just worry that. although I don't see that anything much should go wrong with a fridge, if it does, it might be like owning a fancy foreign car with no easy parts/service.

We’ve bought a Liebherr TDcs 3565 last year, and we’ve been facing one major issue all throughout the Mumbai monsoon session.

The freezer-to-fridge vents are very narrow, not just in the top->bottom ducting but also within the back of the freezer itself. What this does during high humidity times (i.e. 1/3rd of the year) is the condensation within the vents freezes, blocking the entire airflow.

There are just two air ducts, each less than 1 square inch, and both get frozen airtight over 2-3 weeks, and the fridge compartment becomes stale over a couple days. To relieve the flow, I switch off the fridge, wait for a few minutes for any residual charge to discharge, then pour hot water (80-90 degrees) straight into the freezer compartment, and let the heat and flow melt the frost until both ducts are clear and water pours out of the airflow vents. Normally takes me about 10 litres of hot water worth of heat to melt all the frost.

This is a very jugaad method, but I’ve tried all sorts of midway efforts from hair dryers to keeping the fridge open and hoping it melts soon, and this is the only solution that’s worked effectively with minimal spoilage to the food. On calling the service specialist, he did the exact same thing I did and charged me ₹500 for it

Putting this point across to show that Liebherr might be amazing in Europe, but their design philosophies just do not work well here in our soup-like thick and humid air.

[JMaruru]

Originally Posted by wolfsnare24

We used the reasonable-and-quality 1L Racold Pronto Neo and ran the solar hot water plumbing to it just before it reached the hot water inlet in the hot/cold/shower/tap mixer.

It’s a very good supplement, and be mindful to ensure there is a cold water mixer and it is not direct to tap as sometimes the water heats up much more than what’s comfortable with the geyser on, but it’s too cold without the geyser.

Yes. We do have a Hot/Cold mixer and I can adjust the same. The water heater provision which is pre-built takes the input from 'Solar' water heater.

Originally Posted by wolfsnare24

You won’t be needing more than 1L size as the panels will drastically drop your water pressure, and the flow rate would be reduced.

I didn't understand this 'panel'. Could you please elaborate? You mean 3L unit will drop the pressure?

[wolfsnare24]

Originally Posted by JMaruru

I didn't understand this 'panel'. Could you please elaborate? You mean 3L unit will drop the pressure?

My bad I wasn’t clearer. I meant the solar heater unit would drop the pressure by design, as the water needs to have a higher residence time to absorb maximum heat. This is the zig-zag pathway you’d see on the collector plate on your roof.

That’s why 1L is sufficient, if you’d be having a direct municipal flow line or borewell pump-to-tap instead of a SWH, then you’d probably need a 3L instant geyser to achieve sufficient heating for the higher flow rate.