[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Don't have significant experience with a WagonR, but except for 1-2, this seems rather early; more so because one may need to downshift in real-life situations if one followed this. Trying something like this just might help:
1-2 : 10
2-3 : 30
3-4 : 45
4-5 : 55-60
Now, I am suggesting this based on other hatches (including from the Maruti stable) that I have driven. You may change a bit based on what you 'feel' from the car. It just might help.

Also bear in mind that you may be suggested to overinflate the tyres for better FE. That can be rather risky as overinflated tyres tend to skid very easily.

It is better to drive above 1500 RPM when possible. To low an RPM will result in low FE. My shifts

1-2 : 10-15
2-3 : 20-30
3-4 : 40-50
4-5 : 60+

Lower value when I am at a steady pace, higher values while accelerating

[snorting bull]

Originally Posted by adimicra

car:Honda Jazz, 10K on the odo
AC ON 100% of the time,

With spirited driving (redline when possible)
City:10-11 kmpl
Highway:13-14 kmpl (speeds in excess of 150 kmph)


With normal driving
City:14 kmpl
Highway:17 kmpl (cruising speed 100-120 kmph)

With Sedate Driving
City:16-17 kmpl
Highway: 20 kmpl (cruising speed 80-100 kmph)

Same applies to me except mileage is 7000km

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by Aroy

It is better to drive above 1500 RPM when possible. To low an RPM will result in low FE. My shifts

Mate, you needed to quote abhinavm as it was his querry that I was responding too .

About 1500 rpm - not sure if you are talking about the WagonR (which was being discussed) specifically, or as a general figure. I am not aware about the WagonR in particular, as I already said. About other cars, it would depend on their torque curve and engine type, besides other things (slope of road, load on car, style of driving, traffic anticipated, the difference in gear ratios, the gear/speed one is at, aerodynamics of the car etc). But for FE, as a ballpark 1500-1800 sounds good for many cars.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Mate, you needed to quote abhinavm as it was his querry that I was responding too .

About 1500 rpm - not sure if you are talking about the WagonR (which was being discussed) specifically, or as a general figure. I am not aware about the WagonR in particular, as I already said. About other cars, it would depend on their torque curve and engine type, besides other things (slope of road, load on car, style of driving, traffic anticipated, the difference in gear ratios, the gear/speed one is at, aerodynamics of the car etc). But for FE, as a ballpark 1500-1800 sounds good for many cars.

I was talking about my Alto K10, which has the same engine as the new WagonR, AStar and the Zen.

In petrols the low end torque is a bit weak, especially if the engine is tuned to high RPM. In my car I get two distinct torque kicks at 2500 and at 3500.

The 1500 RPM is the lowest I would want to travel in as below it the engine lugs which will affect the FE.

[IQBAL VEERJI]

Originally Posted by Aroy

I was talking about my Alto K10, which has the same engine as the new WagonR, AStar and the Zen.

In petrols the low end torque is a bit weak, especially if the engine is tuned to high RPM. In my car I get two distinct torque kicks at 2500 and at 3500.

The 1500 RPM is the lowest I would want to travel in as below it the engine lugs which will affect the FE.

Aroy I am at same place from where I started , my K10 is still 11.6 kms/ltr without AC in city with extramly less taffic.....
I have clocked 2300kms till today.Great mistake I made selling my 800 5 speed 2002.

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by IQBAL VEERJI

Aroy I am at same place from where I started , my K10 is still 11.6 kms/ltr without AC in city with extramly less taffic.....
I have clocked 2300kms till today.Great mistake I made selling my 800 5 speed 2002.

Veerji,

Some basic things to check:
1. Tyre pressure (once every 1-2 weeks in summer, or as reduction in pressure suggests)
2. Clean air filter
3. Driving style. Anticipation of stoppages and slowing down in advance; changing gears correctly; not riding the clutch etc.

Guess you would know of most of them. BTW, I think there is a sticky or something on the Advice section which talks about how to get good FE.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by IQBAL VEERJI

Aroy I am at same place from where I started , my K10 is still 11.6 kms/ltr without AC in city with extramly less taffic.....
I have clocked 2300kms till today.Great mistake I made selling my 800 5 speed 2002.

Actually the Alto K10 has better FE compared to the M800. Your low FE may be due to

1. Driving predominantly at second and third gear. On predominantly fourth gear and occasional fifth the K10 gives me between 12 and 14 with AC. With second and third (short market trips) I am getting 11 to 12.

2. If you have a lot of stops at traffic light, you will be burning petrol while not going any where. Switch your engine off at traffic lights and see a dramatic improvement in FE.

To check if there is something really wrong with your K10, take a 100-200km ride on the Mumbai-Pune Expressway, driving at 90-110. That will clear up your engine and give it a new Zing! Predominant city driving at relatively low speeds accumulates a lot of junk in the engine and that results in low FE. After I did the Delhi-Ambala run last month, the engine sound changed and the car seemed more responsive.

[carfreak77]

I get 12-14 on my Jazz in city driving & 16-18 on highway driving. I also do some spirited driving.

[ulhas.ahirrao]

I got 16.8 kmpl on my i-10 sportz, 100% Pune city traffic, no AC

[TOR]

Dzire VDi 2008-August.

Odo: 40,000kms

FE: 19.1-19.8km/L

Drive: 70% highway;30% dense city traffic. 100% AC.

[IQBAL VEERJI]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Veerji,

Some basic things to check:
1. Tyre pressure (once every 1-2 weeks in summer, or as reduction in pressure suggests)
2. Clean air filter
3. Driving style. Anticipation of stoppages and slowing down in advance; changing gears correctly; not riding the clutch etc.

Guess you would know of most of them. BTW, I think there is a sticky or something on the Advice section which talks about how to get good FE.

It has been in the city without dusty roads. Air cleaner cleaning in 2000kms??
Tyre pressure is correct.
I am 57 yrs young man with 40 yrs old driving licence.
I drive in a peaceful manner ,no harsh acceleration,suddened start from red light turning green.
Long duration signal I cut off engine.
DRIVING TOTALLY W/O AC .
Even then this 11 kms/ltr in a supposed to be most fuel efficient car (according to Maruti)

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by IQBAL VEERJI

It has been in the city without dusty roads. Air cleaner cleaning in 2000kms??
Tyre pressure is correct.
I am 57 yrs young man with 40 yrs old driving licence.
I drive in a peaceful manner ,no harsh acceleration,suddened start from red light turning green.
Long duration signal I cut off engine.
DRIVING TOTALLY W/O AC .
Even then this 11 kms/ltr in a supposed to be most fuel efficient car (according to Maruti)

Sorry Veerji, Didn't check the Bambai bit, so Air Filter shouldn't be an issue at 2k kms.

Now given your vast experience, I may be able to offer little. It would be upto the renown Maruti A$$ to do something about it. Beyond the Maruti engineers work, will still add the obvious, which you are likely to very well know anyway.

• Checking FE based on tang full to tank full, over 2-3 successive tank fulls. (the inaccuracy in the tank actually being full gets minimized). Ideally one should stop at cut off and not full in more fuel.
• Using a reliable filling station.
• Air pressure mentioned in the manual/door is 'Cold tyre pressure'. It should be checked in the morning without running a car at all (A good Rs.200/- gauge would do).
• When I get it checked at a filling station, I usually add 2-3psi or so, depending on how warm the tyre is likely to be (given the time/heat of the day, how much the car has run etc).
• Not riding the Clutch, changing the gear appropriately etc. I guess I needn't even mention this aspect, as you are so experienced.

The FE you are getting is very surprising though, especially that it is without AC. One can usually manage much better even in sedans which aren't really meant to be frugal and that too with AC. Something surely seems amiss.

If you complain to Maruti, they should also be able to arrange a FE test for you, where they fill in a certain amount of fuel in a container (not using the petrol tank) and see how long it runs. It, of course will run much longer than normal driving, given it would be one long run, than multiple ignition starts and on a warm engine. But you could factor in 15-20% (my guess) lesser in real world situations from what that test shows.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by IQBAL VEERJI

It has been in the city without dusty roads. Air cleaner cleaning in 2000kms??
Tyre pressure is correct.
I am 57 yrs young man with 40 yrs old driving licence.
I drive in a peaceful manner ,no harsh acceleration,suddened start from red light turning green.
Long duration signal I cut off engine.
DRIVING TOTALLY W/O AC .
Even then this 11 kms/ltr in a supposed to be most fuel efficient car (according to Maruti)

. I checked the Air Filter on third service (3800km, 1 year), and it was reasonably clean.
. Never checked the tyre pressure, but seems OK on inspection. I had changed to Michelin on delivery.
. I drive spiritedly, when possible. Most of my trips are 0.5 to 2.5 km each way, with a long trip - 20km+ each tank full. I still get 12-14 with AC.
. I am 60, been driving since 18. My sons get a couple of km/L less than I do ( and they wear the clutch/brake linings faster)! So FE has a lot to do with driving style.

Yes 11 without AC is miserable FE. Even my 10 year old Esteem gives better FE without AC!

Check the following
- Petrol Pump. It may be consistently giving you less fuel.
- Brakes binding. If the wheels are hot to touch after a couple of km that is it. Alternatively see how far the car goes from say 50km/h in neutral.
- Idling. If it is smooth, OK, else if it rough (compared to your M800), then there may be problem in ignition.

Even if signal is 1 minute (and I believe that in Mumbai they are 3 minutes min) and you get 10 signals in your route, you have wasted 10 minutes worth of petrol.

I still feel that you should take it to the Expressway and see if you can hit 120+ easily (say in 15 seconds), if not there is a problem in the system - engine/brakes/clutch.

[msdivy]

Recently did a Bangalore-Munnar trip. Filled at Coimbatore, covered Pollachi-Udumalaipettai-Munnar(with local sightseeing)-Theni-Dindigul-Salem. Filled again at Salem till cut-off.
Distance covered is 593.3Km & fuel used was 31.19L. So FE is 19.
Coimbatore to Udumalaipettai & Theni to Salem was with 5th gear & AC on (speeds between 70 & 100). The ghat section & Munnar was done in mostly 3rd gear without AC.
Car is 2006 NHC Gxi. After long time I could test 100% highway mileage.

[bullock-Car]

Recently i did fuel efficiency check for ANHC, based on tankful to tankful(in between 14 lts),total 596 km with 43 lts (14+29), (350 highway+246 bangalore city) fuel efficiency of 13.86 km/lt.