[suresh_gs]

Originally Posted by drhoneycake

Looking to upgrade the headlights of my fluidic verna. Absolutely pathetic set of lights on such an expensive car. Many times while driving at night, I feel my headlamps aren't even switched on.

I was just browsing the other day and I came across this, but I'm not able to understand what it exactly means. Can the experts help me out please.

http://m.ebay.in/mobinweb/itm/111479059650?_mwBanner=1

Regards,
Aniketh


Sent from my iPhone using Team-BHP

Mate, Switch over to 100/90 bulbs. I too fixed the same in my santro within 1 year of purchase. Here we have 100/90 white light and 100/90 yellow light with 10% white light mixed. The bulbs of the former cost rs 500 per piece while the bulbs of the latter cost Rs 250 per piece.
Visibility is very good. But take care to ensure that in city driving you do not use high beam.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

Bottom line:

1. How soon can one perceive an impact of the 100w setup on a Swift's headlights?

2. What is its impact on the Swift's electrical system?

3. How easy difficult is it to revert to avoid warranty issues if necessary?

4. Is it advisable to do this on a brand new Swift?

To answer your questions here, please go ahead with the 100/90W setup eyes closed on the Swift.

My car is still under warranty and has been serviced twice with no issues from SA regarding this setup. All he asked me what wiring kit I had used?! I gave him the details and showed the wiring harness routing in the car. Secure! He was fine with it.

If you are not looking for white light then go for Philips Rally or else do look at Osram Night Breaker. The Osram NB has a bluish - white light to it that I am not happy with.

Installation time is 15 minutes and time to revert to OEM wiring is same as installation. NO splicing or touching of the OEM wiring. This is just "plug and play" setup. If you want to remove the 100/90W kit, just pull out the connectors and refit the OEM ones.

EDIT :

About using high hand during idle as the heart from the headlights will not get dissipated, it'll start deteriorating the headlights. When at idle switch off. Use high beams ONLY when needed as they are too bright and harming to the oncoming vehicles.

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

To answer your questions here, please go ahead with the 100/90W setup eyes closed on the Swift.
--
Installation time is 15 minutes and time to revert to OEM wiring is same as installation. NO splicing or touching of the OEM wiring. This is just "plug and play" setup. If you want to remove the 100/90W kit, just pull out the connectors and refit the OEM ones.
--
Use high beams ONLY when needed as they are too bright and harming to the oncoming vehicles.

Thanks a lot for the info! Please consider this post as a response to your quoted post as well as that on your own thread.

Though 4 months isn't a long time, it is the actual driving distance that matters and 12000 km without any degradation of the headlights is a good sign. If you check the headlights everyday, you know what is going on. Sounds reassuring.

As far as the colour of the light is concerned, though white looks good and more modern I think 4300K is the highest colour temperature that does not sacrifice practicality. Philips Rally makes more sense then. The Hella 130/100W harness appears to be available online for about 800 to 1000 INR. Of course, it is best to use a harness rated for a higher load than applied and that is what I would prefer.

If it is simple enough to be removable in 15 minutes, it should work out fine for me. This means I should even able to do it myself. Main thing to be careful about might be the direct line from the battery to the relay if there is such a connection required. But I think it is best that I get the first service done before I install the setup to be on the safe side. The car was delivered on the 30th of June. So no more than two weeks.

I do not use high beams other than to flash on either my P220 or 200 Duke out of discipline inculcated in Chandigarh. Same discipline persists when I go there and drive my brother's Beat. That same discipline will carry over to my Swift. Turning off the headlights when at a stop is something I will have to learn, though. In any case I won't be driving too much so the aging should be delayed a bit.

[Ushuaia]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

Thanks a lot for the info! Please consider this post as a response to your quoted post as well as that on your own thread.

I am using this setup on my scorpio and polo (double barrel) my brother has this on his swift without any hassels we have done avg 30000 kms between the three of them with no hassles. Also if you have protective coating over your HL lens done by dealer at point of sale it will come off due to heat generated. Dont worry its normal.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

Though 4 months isn't a long time, it is the actual driving distance that matters and 12000 km without any degradation of the headlights is a good sign. If you check the headlights everyday, you know what is going on. Sounds reassuring.

Philips Rally makes more sense then. The Hella 130/100W harness appears to be available online for about 800 to 1000 INR. Of course, it is best to use a harness rated for a higher load than applied and that is what I would prefer.

If it is simple enough to be removable in 15 minutes, it should work out fine for me. This means I should even able to do it myself. Main thing to be careful about might be the direct line from the battery to the relay if there is such a connection required. But I think it is best that I get the first service done before I install the setup to be on the safe side. The car was delivered on the 30th of June. So no more than two weeks.

What I suggest you to do is to get the First servicing done and then ask the SA you deal with indirectly if they would object. They shouldn't actually but you never know.

I am not a fan of whitish lights hence told. Philips Rally is cheap as each bulb costs 250 bucks and the harness kit should be retailing anywhere between 900-1100. If you are a DIY man then go ahead else go to any accessories installer and ask him to install it.

PS: Use cable ties to secure the wiring.

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

What I suggest you to do is to get the First servicing done and then ask the SA you deal with indirectly if they would object. They shouldn't actually but you never know.

I am not a fan of whitish lights hence told. Philips Rally is cheap as each bulb costs 250 bucks and the harness kit should be retailing anywhere between 900-1100. If you are a DIY man then go ahead else go to any accessories installer and ask him to install it.

PS: Use cable ties to secure the wiring.

Before I took delivery of the car from Autopace in Chandigarh I asked them if I make any changes to the lights without any cutting/splicing what effect it would have on the warranty and they said the electricals' warranty would be nullified. The sales manager said that in any case under normal circumstances the wiring of the car is not covered, only parts like the ECU and sensors, etc.

I intend to drive the car from Chandigarh to Noida this weekend now that the RC has been delivered and the security number plates have been installed so I guess the first service will be done in Noida or Delhi. I will ask the service centre here (indirectly) how they deal with these 'mods'.

I guess I will see the harness for myself and decide if I can do it myself or not.

Originally Posted by Ushuaia

I am using this setup on my scorpio and polo (double barrel) my brother has this on his swift without any hassels we have done avg 30000 kms between the three of them with no hassles. Also if you have protective coating over your HL lens done by dealer at point of sale it will come off due to heat generated. Dont worry its normal.

I don't think there is any coating done by the dealer on my car's headlights. I think I might have to confirm, though. I didn't pay for any such thing.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Ushuaia

Also if you have protective coating over your HL lens done by dealer at point of sale it will come off due to heat generated. Dont worry its normal.

Can you give some more information on this coating done on the headlights?

I haven't heard of any such things on it. Thanks.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

Before I took delivery of the car from Autopace in Chandigarh I asked them if I make any changes to the lights without any cutting/splicing what effect it would have on the warranty and they said the electricals' warranty would be nullified. The sales manager said that in any case under normal circumstances the wiring of the car is not covered, only parts like the ECU and sensors, etc.

I intend to drive the car from Chandigarh to Noida this weekend now that the RC has been delivered and the security number plates have been installed so I guess the first service will be done in Noida or Delhi. I will ask the service centre here (indirectly) how they deal with these 'mods'.

I guess I will see the harness for myself and decide if I can do it myself or not.
.

You can do it yourself without trouble. Only skill you should have is to know how to remove and reinstall the bulb and the rest is all plug and play. Irrespective of harness, get a relay manufactured by a reputed company like Lucas, PMP, Bosch, Hella etc.

Even in the event of an electrical issue, you can clean up the whole setup before going to the dealer and they will have no clue about it.

Regarding load on alternator, since the battery is also a part of the circuit, it will supplement the alternator and will not overload it in any way. Even I recommended rallys, but they cost me 140 each.

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by audioholic

You can do it yourself without trouble. Only skill you should have is to know how to remove and reinstall the bulb and the rest is all plug and play. Irrespective of harness, get a relay manufactured by a reputed company like Lucas, PMP, Bosch, Hella etc.

Even in the event of an electrical issue, you can clean up the whole setup before going to the dealer and they will have no clue about it.

Regarding load on alternator, since the battery is also a part of the circuit, it will supplement the alternator and will not overload it in any way. Even I recommended rallys, but they cost me 140 each.

I was reviewing a picture I took of the engine bay and yes, the trickiest part will most likely be replacing the bulbs since reaching them might be a bit of a chore. But I'll figure it out. The Hella harness comes with the required relay so no need to buy it separately.

The idea behind the plug and play aspect is to have the ability to clean out the mod before taking the car to service centre for any issue. It seems this setup will allow it.

I checked online and a single Rally costs about Rs 250. Couldn't see a lower price. Did you get yours a long time back?

The Swift petrol has a 35 Ah battery, if I am not mistaken. The extra 7A or so of extra current drain should not be too difficult for the battery to buffer. Now if I do the same mod on my Duke and replace its stock H4 60/55W headlight bulb with a 100/90W unit (with relay) the extra drain of 3+ amps would be a bit much for the 9 Ah (or 8 Ah?) battery to buffer. Once I upgrade my Swift's lights, living with the Duke's stock light will become difficult.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by Darth Sid

The Swift petrol has a 35 Ah battery, if I am not mistaken.

Battery size is started more by the starting (ie cranking) requirements. Any car has at least a 60A alternator today, so no issues with the load, unless you want to add a 2000W stereo or something.

[Darth Sid]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

Battery size is started more by the starting (ie cranking) requirements. Any car has at least a 60A alternator today, so no issues with the load, unless you want to add a 2000W stereo or something.

My concern was putting an undue amount of extra load on the system such that the alternator has little headroom left to adjust according to changes in the overall load on the system. Perhaps my understanding of the basic working of a vehicle's electrical system is flawed. My thought was that the battery acts as a capacitor for the alternator's output filtering the ups and downs and acting as a buffer. If the load on the battery is too high, it may not have enough surplus charge to fill the gap between the load and supply. So while a 35Ah battery should have enough headroom to buffer a 7-8A extra load in the Swift, the Duke's 8Ah battery would be left with little headroom when supplying a 3-4A extra load.

Would the above hold true?

Edit: I think the above logic applies to the case of a 2000W music system but the electronics to drive such a system would draw an exceptionally large amount current. That would warrant a battery as well as alternator upgrade. Theoretically speaking.

[deepfusion]

Any leads on how to disassemble the headlights of the rapid. I have got NB unlimited, and want to install these myself. But have not been able to remove the headlight assembly.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

Any leads on how to disassemble the headlights of the rapid. I have got NB unlimited, and want to install these myself. But have not been able to remove the headlight assembly.

Why do you want to get the headlight out of the car to change bulbs?

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

Any leads on how to disassemble the headlights of the rapid. I have got NB unlimited, and want to install these myself. But have not been able to remove the headlight assembly.

Please refer your owner's manual. Its available in the PDF format as well. They have clearly indicated how to go about changing the bulbs of the headlights, tail lights, fog lights, license plate lights etc.

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Please refer your owner's manual. Its available in the PDF format as well. They have clearly indicated how to go about changing the bulbs of the headlights, tail lights, fog lights, license plate lights etc.

The issue is that the manual is as good as a fabia's. It has a mention only of single headlight bulb, viz. H4, very easily replacable.

I tried this on the rapid, but the bulbs are H7, one for the low beam and one for the high beam. These too are held in place by hexa screws. opening the ones on the high beams is easy but reaching to the low beams is very very difficult.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Why do you want to get the headlight out of the car to change bulbs?

Since reaching and unscrewing the low beam 'bulb holding screws' is difficult.