[adrian]

@Rennjith : There is provision for adjusting cable slack near the TP switch. Will post photos soon.

@a_myth : No problems friend, hope your machine gets well soon

@Arizona Jim : The same type of wiring prevails in all RE bikes. Riding in the rain increases the risk of shorting of connections. I usually blow dry the vehicle using a vaccuum cleaner with the heater on after riding in heavy rain.I am going to try the tube gadget as you have done and some dielectric silicone grease (Anabond 662) treatment as well.

Regards Adrian

[bludhemn]

I am going to try the tube gadget as you have done and some dielectric silicone grease (Anabond 662) treatment as well.

Where did you get this grease? Can you pick it up at a local automotive store? Thanks..

[adrian]

@bludhemn : You can try the lube shops and some automotive spare stores may also have the grease. Any way you'll find it for sure in Ernakulam
Regards Adrian

[bludhemn]

Thanks for the info Adrian.


I have a question regarding servicing. My odo is at 2700 and haven't serviced for a year ( my last one was at 500kms and on time). Couldn't service it within recommended time as I was travelling a bit. Does it make sense to give it straight away for the service or wait until 3k kms? As of now, the warranty is over and there are the regular quirks with the bike but nothing major.



Thanks

[datvichrox2]

Originally Posted by a_myth

The whole problem is that the headlight doesnt have any kind of adjustment for focusing the beam.

Hey, I found the following info on the Royal Enfield forum, I thought it would be useful for you. It was posted by members there.

Loosen the screw at the top of the headlight. Don't Loosen it too much as the reflector assembly will come out completely. So loosen it slowly and pull out the outer ring such that the beam would start pointing downwards. Check if the beam has moved down by turning on the headlight. Once satisfied, tighten the screw

And another member added the following:

You can further lower the light beam by placing a rubber strip along the lower crescent of the headlight between the glass and the outer metallic rim

[bludhemn]

This evening, on my way back from work, I was idling by a traffic light. Thought Id go green and turned off the engine whilst in neutral. Being at a busy intersection, I turned the key on before the lights hit green and...nothing. No friendly neutral light, no response from the start button. Played with key for a few times and finally brought it up. It was dusk, so I had the pilot on and a few meters down the road, the lights on the the amp and speedo started to flicker, like you'd see in the hallway of some cheesy horror flick. Soon the engine went dead. Shifted to neutral, but no green. I love downhills and this is one reason why; you don't have to push in the unlikely event that your bike dies. Flicked the key a few more times and the lights came back. The rest of journey was uneventful although I expected worse.

My first instinct was to check the battery compartment and leads for loose wiring or shorts. Nothing. The battery itself was two weeks old. The fuse was intact. With whatever little light that shone through my porch, I scouted the wires for any potential finds, but couldn't find any.

I am guessing the problem may lie in the ignition compartment. There were heavy showers a few days back and the bike did get a decent taste of it. I wiped it dry before throwing the covers, but Im willing to bet that a fair bit of moisture/water did seep in.

So, is it time to change the ignition unit or am I looking down the wrong path here?

Thanks

[ArizonaJim]

The fact that turning the ignition switch on and off a few times caused it to start working tells me that the problem is in the switch. The flickering indicates that somewhere there is a corroded connector.

I say this assuming that the switch is firmly mounted to something so that it isn't moving around while you mess with the key.

If the key portion of the switch is loose and moving around when the key is turned I would suspect the wiring connectors first, and the switch second.
The connectors will look like they are properly attached but inside of them there is some corroded surfaces.
Unplugging them are then plugging them back together will often fix this sort of problem.

I admit that I have not taken a RE ignition switch apart but some of their other switches can be disassembled with the use of a small Phillips screw driver.

The biggest problem with taking a switch apart is there are usually several spring loaded items inside which can pop out, sending the spring flying across the room.
It may be a good idea to do the disassembly inside of a clear plastic bag.
Work slowly and carefully looking to see how these small parts and springs are installed.

If you do this disassembly you will be looking for corrosion on the electrical contacts in the areas where they touch one another.
If you find corroded terminals use the very finest grit sandpaper you can find to polish off the corrosion.
Often, a paint/body shop that refinishes cars will have sandpaper in grits like 1200 to 1800. This is the kind of sandpaper grit you should use to polish electrical terminals.

Good luck and watch out for flying springs. You will not only need to recover the escaped item but you will have to figure out how it was installed so you can reassemble the switch.

PS: Sometimes corroded switches can be made to work by squirting WD40 into the areas where the electrical contacts live.
Hopefully WD40 is available in India. It was invented to drive out water from complex electrical assemblies (hence the name, "Water Displacement 40, 40 being the number of the successful version).
You cannot spray this into the key slot and expect it to get into the electrical contact area. You must open the switch assembly slightly to spray the stuff inside.

[bludhemn]

Jim, thanks for the info.

The switch started acting up a while back. If I turn it to the 'on' position, it doesn't actually turn on straight away. Requires some fumbling to hit the right spot.

I haven't disassembled a switch either, so I'm wondering if it would be easier just to replace the unit? If water or moisture did get in and the terminals are corroded, I dont think there would be much life left in them, even if they were cleaned. I am stating the obvious about RE quality here.

WD40 is indeed available! So you are saying that the switch needs to be taken apart before spraying this?

[ArizonaJim]

"WD40 is indeed available! So you are saying that the switch needs to be taken apart before spraying this?"
-----------------------
The spray has to get into the area where the contacts are.
That may require separating the case halves slightly. Not enough to allow the springs and clips to fly out.

Remember, this is kind of a rinky dink method of trying to fix the problem.
If a new ignition switch is available at a fair price that would be the best way to go.

[adrian]

Hello friends and experts : Going through the ignition switch blues myself, though not of a severe type. The service has agreed to replace the part now that the bike in on warranty. I really hate to ride around with two keys.Is there any way to order an ignition switch from the company that matches the existing key by referring to the key number ?. The ignition switch costs around Rs.270/- in Trivandrum.
Regards Adrian

[bludhemn]

Got my second service out of the way and they 'remedied' the issue I had with the switch. Apparently it was a loose set of wires; I've been assured that it wont die out again.

I've replaced the bazooka with a goldstar from Sans Inc; love the new thump though Id go with the CI anyday

Adrian, if they replace the ignition switch, you'll get a new key anyway. What use will the old key be? Mine is out of warranty, but they've agreed to replace it free of cost if I run into the same probs again.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Does the cable have an adjustment provision at TPS end? pl post a pic. If yes, a tachometer (engine pulse) may be needed to sync TP sensor/switch feedback with rpm. If No, adjusting main cable's slack at throttle grip won't disturb tps.

.

Hi Rennjith,Posting pictures of throttle /tps cable and the tp switch. Sorry for the poor picture quality.

Originally Posted by bludhemn

Got my second service out of the way and they 'remedied' the issue I had with the switch. Apparently it was a loose set of wires; I've been assured that it wont die out again.

I've replaced the bazooka with a goldstar from Sans Inc; love the new thump though Id go with the CI anyday

Adrian, if they replace the ignition switch, you'll get a new key anyway. What use will the old key be? Mine is out of warranty, but they've agreed to replace it free of cost if I run into the same probs again.

Need the old key for the tank, handle lock and the tool box Glad that you are out of the blues.

[Anz1979]

Hm... back again with new problems for my C3.

Petrol tank paint bubbling. Air Bubbles forming under paint finish. If I touch it will peel off. What to do? Will RE A$$ replace tank under warranty? Any idea?

[adrian]

@Anz1979 : I think you have the habit of leaving the machine as it is after a ride in the rain. The REBs need more care in the wet conditions. A thorough wash and waxing before the rainy season always helps. I always wipe my bike dry after a ride in the rain and this is the first thing I do even before I take a cup of tea after I reach home back from Office and for that my family calls me a maniac ! Now that you have the trouble in your hands, you may persuade the service to repaint it under warranty.

[adrian]

Hello friends and experts, the carburetor in the 350s are of the new type and have only two adjustments- the fuel screw and the idle set screw; no air screw, right ? Turning the fuel screw anti clockwise makes the engine run rich and doing the other way makes it lean. A mechanic from the RE service told me to turn the fuel screw clockwise to make the engine run rich. I was having starting problems in the morning and after turning the fuel screw clockwise ½ a turn, the machine is firing on the first kick without the choke on. Could someone put some light on this ?