[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Hi,

I have a Civic which had done 65K KMs. When I apply brakes, above speeds of 100 kmph there are vibrations in brake pedal and the whole car shudders. What might be the reason for it?

Cheers

In all probabilities, it is the brake discs. Please get them checked.

[ntomer]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

In all probabilities, it is the brake discs. Please get them checked.

Hi Mukesh,

Remember me? My bro-in-law took the baby-seat from you

Will polishing the discs do the job or should I replace them?

Cheers

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Hi Mukesh,

Remember me? My bro-in-law took the baby-seat from you

Will polishing the discs do the job or should I replace them?

Cheers

Of course I remember you.

BTW, I also own a 2006 Civic. The difference is - mine is an AT and I am the first owner.

About your query, for the same shuddering problem, HASS asked me to change the brake discs and pads in March 2011. I went to a FNG and he just grinded it himself (not even proper skimming on a lathe machine) and replaced the brake pads (not Honda original) .

Since then, it has been 27 months and 22000 kms and braking is absolute perfect).

[ntomer]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Of course I remember you.

BTW, I also own a 2006 Civic. The difference is - mine is an AT and I am the first owner.

About your query, for the same shuddering problem, HASS asked me to change the brake discs and pads in March 2011. I went to a FNG and he just grinded it himself (not even proper skimming on a lathe machine) and replaced the brake pads (not Honda original) .

Since then, it has been 27 months and 22000 kms and braking is absolute perfect).

Thanks. I will be going to Kashmiri Gate to buy some stuff for Civic - gear knob, handbrake lever, engine oil (Petronas: semi-synthetic), window glass motor and left ORVM. Would buy the brake pads as well.

Any pointers for a new owner?

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Thanks. I will be going to Kashmiri Gate to buy some stuff for Civic - gear knob, handbrake lever, engine oil (Petronas: semi-synthetic), window glass motor and left ORVM. Would buy the brake pads as well.

Any pointers for a new owner?

Well this thread is bible of all the pointers to new and old owners.

When you go to Kashmiri gate, ask for the price of engine mount, this is the most failed component in my civic even though I drive on excellent/good roads.

Also, I'ld suggest to get alignment/ balancing/ tyre rotation done every 5k kms. My first set of tyres had uneven wear because I didn't get it done. My 2nd set is doing pretty well (28k now) after I started to alignment/ balancing/ tyre rotation done every 5000 kms.

[skdking]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Hi,

I have a Civic which had done 65K KMs. When I apply brakes, above speeds of 100 kmph there are vibrations in brake pedal and the whole car shudders. What might be the reason for it?

Cheers

Please get your brake pads checked. Pronto.

[Ace F355]

Originally Posted by ntomer

Hi,

I have a Civic which had done 65K KMs. When I apply brakes, above speeds of 100 kmph there are vibrations in brake pedal and the whole car shudders. What might be the reason for it?

Cheers

Pedal shuddering sounds like ABS at work. Are vibrations in the whole car or just the steering? If just the steering, Worn out brake pads + wheels requiring alignment & balancing can be potential culprits.

Get pads checked and replace if worn out, and get balancing & alignment done. That should cure the steering vibrations.

[coolkurt]

I was looking to change the speakers of my civic. Now I know civic has a 4 speaker system. The front are component speakers while rear are co- axial if I'm not mistaken?

So is it advisable to keep the same setup ie components at front and coaxial at back or change all of them to components?

I listen to Trance and house so I need some bassy speakers. The stock ones are decent but suck at bass. and I don't have the cash to go for a full upgrade - amp and sub.

[Ace F355]

Originally Posted by coolkurt

I was looking to change the speakers of my civic. Now I know civic has a 4 speaker system. The front are component speakers while rear are co- axial if I'm not mistaken?

So is it advisable to keep the same setup ie components at front and coaxial at back or change all of them to components?

I listen to Trance and house so I need some bassy speakers. The stock ones are decent but suck at bass. and I don't have the cash to go for a full upgrade - amp and sub.

Hehe... Civic has same papercone speakers, both at front & rear with 2 tweeters thrown in; no comps or coaxials. I have been in your current situation and would suggest you to try bass trick with your stock system for the time you have enough dough to burn on ICE. Without any amplification, any aftermarket set of components will not perform as intended and will sound like ordinary on bass front.

Here is how you activate Bass trick In stock.

1. Press 4 & 6 button on HU together and turn power off and on while keep pressing 4 & 6 buttons.

2. HU will show DIAG on its display. Now leave 4 & 6 buttons and press 4 again.

3. DIAG will turn to DSP ON.

4. Press 4 again and keep it pressed for another couple of seconds while DSP turns OFF.

5. Power off and on, and your system's bass will dramatically improve.

PS: need to repeat the trick every time you turn your car off.

[coolkurt]

Thanks. It worked. It does improve things a bit. But doing it every time is cumbersome. :(

So you're saying if I just change the speakers to components and coaxials, there won't be a marked improvement? better bass and clarity maybe?

[Ace F355]

Originally Posted by coolkurt

Thanks. It worked. It does improve things a bit. But doing it every time is cumbersome. :(

So you're saying if I just change the speakers to components and coaxials, there won't be a marked improvement? better bass and clarity maybe?

You will get used to it. At least, I managed to, for almost 2.5 years. Yet, ICE itch became unbearable and I blew more than 140 k on ICEing my car last month.

As I said previously, amplification will be must for extracting the best out of aftermarket speaker sets. Try replacing the speakers and listen for a few days with that. If you like it, nothing like it. Otherwise just add in a 4 channel amp into the setup whenever you have some extra dough with you.

[coolkurt]

2.5 years! that is a long time

Yeah..I think I'll go for the speaker upgrade and add an amp later.

Should I go in for components for both front nd back or components at the front and co-axials at back? Any idea how much do component speakers cost, on an average for a pair?

Anything else I should keep in mind? wattage of the speakers etc? sorry but I'm a noob when it comes to Car audio

[Highflyer]

Originally Posted by Ace F355

Pedal shuddering sounds like ABS at work. Are vibrations in the whole car or just the steering? If just the steering, Worn out brake pads + wheels requiring alignment & balancing can be potential culprits.

Get pads checked and replace if worn out, and get balancing & alignment done. That should cure the steering vibrations.

If only pedals are shuddering then it could be ABS doing its job.
However, if it is coupled with juddering of steering then brake pads may be the culprit (presuming that balancing and alignment are already done).

Brake pad skimming can be undertaken at any good garage.

I suggest that you get the brake pad servicing done. Issues if any would come out during that.

[Ace F355]

Originally Posted by Highflyer

If only pedals are shuddering then it could be ABS doing its job.
However, if it is coupled with juddering of steering then brake pads may be the culprit (presuming that balancing and alignment are already done).

Brake pad skimming can be undertaken at any good garage.

I suggest that you get the brake pad servicing done. Issues if any would come out during that.

Hey Highflyer, I guess your post was in reference to ntomer's post that I replied to!

[devsoftech]

Today I join the club of blinking 'D' light issue.

How it all started:
I was driving to Xtreme adventure club (after Machinbele dam/Big Banyan tree on BLR-Mysore rd). Mild offroading and uphill drive for 2-3 kms. At one place I lost momentum on an incline. Car was moving backward slowly when I let off the brake. As I started accelerating, it started to move slowly. I had a feeling that I'm in trouble, but wanted to reach the destination. I was at 3000+ rpm and car was feeling lifeless, not moving with enough power. It started giving feedback that its hunting for the right gear. Switched to S mode, and paddles did not work. Reached the destination (was 3-4 kms when the symptoms started appearing) and parked the car. While returning from the event (car was parked for 3-4 hours) and mostly downhill drive - This is when I discover the 'D' lights blinking. The 'S' mode didn't work with paddles, and car was giving violent jerks at 3500 rpm (or the next-gear-shifting point). Looked like the car's attempt to change gears failed. Car did not pull fast enough (car felt like its stuck at some higher gear) and had to drive almost 20 kms to reach NICE road. I stopped my car before toll entry and turned off the engine thinking to start driving in S mode with paddles and take a chance. After entering nice road in S1 (with slow acceleration) I accelerated to redline. Absolutely no slippage. Very tractable. Deep in my heart I had an assurance that torque convertor is healthy. Flick of a + and upshift to S2. Again a redline and no issues. I went upto healthy S5 and 145 kmph for a short stint. Very relieved that the problem was sorted. Gave a lame excuse to myself thinking that there's some loose wiring. Now comes the interesting part. Had to brake near Bannerghata toll exit and started driving. Accelerated like usual days and car went crazy with the jerks and 'D' light flashing. Shifted to D mode, still no help. Till I reached dakshin honda, the car was stuck on a gear which won't downshift or upshift at any range of speed. Can someone figure out which gear was that - I was doing 75-80 at 3000 rpm and 100 at 4000 rpm. imagine driving a car that becomes lifeless at 0 and becomes powerful as speed builds up. Finally reach dakshin honda and went for test drive. Service advisor said torque convertor could be fine, usually lasts 5 lakh kms. Could be some problem with solenoid. He went for another test drive with laptop and honda diagnostics connected. He is suspecting an issue with pressure sensor (now what is this part ??). My vehicle's issue has not been zero'ed upon and they will diagnose tomorrow also. Any pointers/people with similar story above, please chime in. Fingers crossed for a economical resolution.