[saket77]

Honda wouldn’t replace the axle boots. They will ask to change the entire drive shaft which costs around 20K each side. So, total 40K for just the rubber boots since your original drive shaft is most likely fine. To check the drive shaft, simply turn the steering fully to one side and take off little aggressively. A bad bearing will make kat-kat noise. Repeat the same test by turning the steering on the opposite side. Obviously perform this test in an isolated and safe area.
If there’s no noise, buy the boots from any spare parts shop and get it changed at an FNG. They will open the drive shaft and send for lathe job and get the boots replaced. If the boots are really torn, do not delay the repair, else the driveshaft bearing will soon be gone due to mud and water ingress.

Regarding the suspension and steering job, if you have deep pockets, get it done at Honda. Else procure quality spares and get the job done at a good independent garage. Most of the joints and bushes will be replaced. There’s a plethora of good aftermarket parts out there for this job including the OE spares. Take your pick.

Regards.

[Cyborg]

Originally Posted by NevGin

How do I get the above attended to? Who is a dependable and knowledgable person or shop in Mumbai that can do this for me.

Nevgin, take your car to Sunil Shanbaug, his garage is in Dadar East quite close to the train station. I have not been to him in awhile so am not sure if he is still working, but give him a call and check it out. He is an honest man who will not fool you, let him evaluate what needs to be done and take it from there. His numbers are
+91 98338 85868 / 022-24149910 /
+91 93222 32627

Update the thread after speaking with him and let me know if any additional help is required.

Cheers

[raunaqv471]

Originally Posted by NevGin

Hello fellow BHP ians. Need your direction and help. My 2007 Honda Civic Manual Transmission has done about 46,000 km. The engine is absolutely perfect and no complaints. During my routine service at Arya Honda Mumbai I have however been told the folllowing:

1. Both CV axel boots are cut up
2. Both tie rod end bushings are cut up
3. Both rear linkages are weak
4. Both Lowrys arms are weak
5. All dampers are weak

I assume these were mentioned in the invoice as the recommended work to be carried out.I have observed that such comments are mentioned even if there's a minuscule cut in the bushes or minor leak in the struts. HASS would recommend changing all such parts which might not be the need of the hour.

Have you faced any thumping or clunking sound while driving over potholes? Or even a ticking sound while turning at speeds? If you haven't faced any suspension related issues, it's better to have a Trusted FNG inspect the same rather than committing such a huge amount at HASS for the above part replacements without a second opinion.As for garages, you could try any Mahindra First Choice affiliated service centre such as Patel Auto.

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by NevGin

Hello fellow BHP ians. Need your direction and help. My 2007 Honda Civic Manual Transmission has done about 46,000 km.

Any direction would be great. Thanks!

At 46k all these years the car does not seem to be used much. Do not bother with Honda, after market parts would do for you and you will save a ton of money. All the parts of good quality can be bought from spares hub.com.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post4139723 (Honda Civic Independence : CNG'd. EDIT: 1,13,000 km up and SOLD!)

Good luck.

[NevGin]

Originally Posted by saket77

Honda wouldn’t replace the axle boots.
Regards.

Thanks. Yesterday they offered to replace two boots @ 5.5K each with labour. Said that they would open it, change the boot, re-grease it and clean it up and put it back. Sounded fishy to me so I said no.

Originally Posted by Cyborg

Nevgin, take your car to Sunil Shanbaug,
Update the thread after speaking with him and let me know if any additional help is required.
Cheers

Thank you. I have spoken to him and have setup some time with him tomorrow. He mentioned he will take a day and list out the most urgent and the least urgent things to be attended to and then we can take a call. Appreciate that pointer.

Originally Posted by raunaqv471

I assume these were mentioned in the invoice as

Have you faced any thumping or clunking sound while driving over potholes? Or even a ticking sound while turning at speeds?

Thanks. I will be getting the car back from them this afternoon. But they mentioned these details over a call followed up by a text. At slow speeds and over rougher roads there is a slight noise but on the highway the handling is still precise and no noise as such. No ticking sound while turning. Yes I did check that.

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

At 46k all these years the car does not seem to be used much. Do not bother with Honda, after market parts would do for you and you will save a ton of money. All the parts of good quality can be bought from spares hub.com.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post4139723 (Honda Civic Independence : CNG'd. EDIT: 1,13,000 km up and SOLD!)

Good luck.

Thank you. Yes after seeing your post last night I had messaged them and they have responded that they will revert Yes at 46K this engine has not even broken in hence keen on keeping it for its brilliant handling, road manners, engine.

[swami69]

Originally Posted by NevGin

Thank you. Yes after seeing your post last night I had messaged them and they have responded that they will revert Yes at 46K this engine has not even broken in hence keen on keeping it for its brilliant handling, road manners, engine.

You are right. If you have space, it is better to keep the Civic and enjoy rather than selling it for nothing. I have a 2007 AT and recently did a passenger side full Strut Assembly replacement including strut mount and just the strut mount on the Driver Side from Honda. The bill came to 10K and they did a very good job.

When they opened it up, they also came up with their observations on Tie Rod ends, ball joints, connecting rod etc., but, they themselves also recommended to change all those when i start hearing more noises or other issues. From that stand point, they were very genuine and just did the most important one and the one which was giving trouble - struts.

The car is super fine to drive and with my limited running, the other things may not come up soon.

Swami

[rr_zen]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

Thank you my friends. Finally, got the issue fixed as per your suggestion(s). It was a simple DIY. The only improvement I made to it was to add a second nut to the bolt to act as a lock nut. Attaching a video of how it turned out.

I ended up saving 1.5K overall, not to mention the immense satisfaction one gets out of accomplishing something like this.

https://Youtu.be/GBlDW4-jRRo

Wanted to share an invaluable lesson I learnt from the above DIY which may be of help. My happiness out of accomplishing the above DIY did not last long enough and I faced a different (yet related) challenge the next day when I started driving the car. The brake pedal seemed to have very less play than usual and I could sense the wheels were not rotating freely. I chose to ignore the warning and proceeded with my journey only to experience the wheels getting locked up completely and I sensed the brakes were jammed. It was raining cats and dogs and I was stranded in the middle of the road. Finally, after many futile attempts got HASS to send a breakdown repair vehicle. Help arrived after an hour and the mechanic got into my car and fixed things in a minute. The car was back to normal.

It baffled me as I was imagining the worst and it all boiled down to the brake-light switch position which was slot deep inside to the lower most level. What had happened was that when I was attempting the DIY, the brake light switch had popped out from its position and when I had put it back in its slot, I had it go all the way down (without knowing that it is an adjustable one). This position made the switch hold down the brake pedal with very little room for play. Driving the car with things as they were caused the brake discs to heat up and eventually resulting of jamming the brakes on all wheels completely. A lesson well learnt I guess.

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

Wanted to share an invaluable lesson I learnt from the above DIY which may be of help.

Thanks a lot for sharing the follow up experience. Things like this would have been overlooked otherwise.

Is it possible for mods to edit this information also to the video DIY post of yours, so that future references will not miss this important point?

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

Wanted to share an invaluable lesson I learnt from the above DIY which may be of help.

I was thinking about mentioning that a DIY on a critical component like the brakes should be avoided when you had posted last time related to this but I decided maybe it is a simple thing to do. However my worst fears proved true when I read this about your brake issue. One should probably leave critical components to the professionals who are sure about what they are doing rather than take a risk to save a buck or two. Thank God nothing on toward happened.

[raunaqv471]

Thanks. I will be getting the car back from them this afternoon. But they mentioned these details over a call followed up by a text. At slow speeds and over rougher roads there is a slight noise but on the highway the handling is still precise and no noise as such. No ticking sound while turning. Yes I did check that.


Might I ask how was the service experience at Honda? Did the car feel any smoother? I have observed that after a servicing at any official After Sales Service dealer( if done right ie.), cars usually feel way smoother at least in the short run. Have experienced the same with my i20 at Hyundai as well.

[NevGin]

Originally Posted by Cyborg

Nevgin, take your car to Sunil Shanbaug, his garage is in Dadar East quite close to the train station.

Update the thread after speaking with him and let me know if any additional help is required.

Originally Posted by NevGin

Thank you. I have spoken to him and have setup some time with him tomorrow. He mentioned he will take a day and list out the most urgent and the least urgent things to be attended to and then we can take a call. Appreciate that pointer.

Updating the thread with details post my visit to Select Auto (Sunil Shanbaug). Yes the shop is still working and the people are very nice. Most of the interactions with Sunil sir were telephonic as he comes to work later in the day and I have a hard time due to my work schedule.

The following things were discovered:

• Gaping holes in the firewall. Could be seen from the tire wells
• Front strut mounts would need replacement
• The brake calipers are rusted of which the rear LHS one was holding on the rotor and stuck.
• The CV boots have a slight cut. This seems mostly from aging and of course usage.
• Other suspension linkages were not in the best of shape but absolutely usable

Fixing the rust and gaping holes would mean removal of the complete engine and dashboard. And there is nothing to say what else would need replacement should that be done; such as engine mounts etc. Also replacing calipers are 18K per piece for OEMs with a wait of 3 weeks. All of this did not seem worth it at all and Sunil sir told me the same very clearly. He said he can do it but it would not be worth the money as rust would catch on elsewhere eventually.

What was done - The calipers have been serviced to the extent that they could be and now work fine. Some more cleaning to the braking (rotors, pads) was also done. Re-assembled the front suspension and torqued it firmly. With that I think I shall be able to drive around for sometime till I think what next to get.

Also I would henceforth always go to Sunil sir as he is clear, honest about things and transparent.

[Cyborg]

Originally Posted by NevGin

Also I would henceforth always go to Sunil sir as he is clear, honest about things and transparent.

Happy to hear things are moving along properly for you NevGin. Sunil has always been a straightforward nice guy in this world of increasing fake people.

Perhaps you could think about selling the car due to the holes in the firewall etc as it will keep deteriorating and rains will be a nightmare.

Cheers

[Athani]

The ceiling light in my car works normally when the switch is in ON or OFF position.

However, when the switch is in the Door Activated position, the light remains on all time as if in the ON position - it does not turn off on closing the door or locking the car.

I have tested the door switches. They all work to turn on/off the courtesy lights in the door. But not the ceiling lights. I suppose something is wrong with the ceiling light switch? Would appreciate any possible solutions. Thank you!

[pineapple_ameet]

It's a classic Honda issue, particularly if civic/crv and sons cities too.. The assembly replacement is the only option as the glitch will remain otherwise...

Originally Posted by Athani

The ceiling light in my car works normally when the switch is in ON or OFF position.

However, when the switch is in the Door Activated position, the light remains on all time as if in the ON position - it does not turn off on closing the door or locking the car.

I have tested the door switches. They all work to turn on/off the courtesy lights in the door. But not the ceiling lights. I suppose something is wrong with the ceiling light switch? Would appreciate any possible solutions. Thank you!

[coolvenk]

I am having an issue with the fuel door not opening when I press the lever below (& to the right of) the driver's seat. The lever isn't "springy" and sort of gets stuck as well. However, the trunk opens when I pull the same lever, although it still isn't springy and doesn't get back to the middle position on its own.

After a bit of looking this up online, I did manage to locate the wire that causes the trunk to open and push it the other way around but the fuel door still doesn't open. Maybe I am doing this wrong.

Any leads are much appreciated. Would prefer a DIY fix, even if it is jugaad and gets it working, since I want to avoid visiting a workshop. Also, a long trip coming up soon and this issue is putting it in jeopardy. Thanks.