[Alfa_Kilo]

Do the rest of the electricals also die when this occurs? Check for loose connections in the alt. and battery.

[Samurai]

No, only the fuel needle swings to E, everything else remains nominal. I just spoke to the mechanic on phone, he is getting it back to my office. He says he tightened most of the electricals, and it stalled only once since then. Anyway, once it is here, I'll get more info.

[svsantosh]

Possible Theory:

The float position has changed for the worse, meaning the fuel goes to one corner of the tank and it drives the needle to show E. Have the float's nozzle from where the fuel is picked up checked... In short, check the entire Fuel tank and its inside equipment.

[Samurai]

The mechanic dropped the Jeep after driving it for 16Kms. He had pulled out the diesel pipe shown in red circle and pumped the diesel pump to remove air. After that there was no problem. I dropped him back to the garage and drove back, so far no problems. So, what does that mean?



Also, why do I have both diesel pump and electronic fuel pump? I can hear the diesel pitter patter sound from the electronic fuel pump when I half crank the ignition key to heat... hmm something.

This is one question I never asked, although I should have long back. Why does one half crank the ignition key with Puegeot engines? I know I am heating something, what is it... the engine chamber?

Why there are multiple fuel lines, why is there a return line?

I am only asking these stupid questions so that someone else don't have to ask it in future.

[Alfa_Kilo]

You 'half crank' the key to warm the combustion chambers with glow plugs in your engine. As this is an IDI engine, glow plugs are absolutely essential. Some moderns DIs also have glow plugs, probably to reduce cold start emmisions.

The multiple black rubber fuel lines are the spil return lines from the injectors. The HP lines feeding the injectors are metal.

If the engine was stalling due to an air in the fuel, your fuel guage should not go to empty. Do you puffs of white smoke when the engine stalls? Is the idle smooth or does the engine hunt (rpm fluctuates)?

[sudev]

The electronic pump is sort of primer pump. The main pressure pump is #15 in your pic. If time and again air is coming in to fuel circuit check the pipe from tank to pump for air leakage (pin holes). Anupmathur's thread about cold starts also has some discussion about it.

Electric pump: Is it an OE fitting or add on? If you remove the electric pump what happens?

What he opened was the low pressure return line and if that has air in it is needs to be checked. Is your fuel tank original? Original tanks have baffle inside to stop fuel from moving too freely / sloshing inside the tank. May be DB can throw some more light?

In the meanwhile try driving with tank always more than half full and observe.

[U.B.Singh]

Hello Sir,
your thread on a diesel 340 Jeep, has covered almost all aspects of jeep trouble shooting. Maybe some more light should be thrown on the steering system and the 'knuckle' which is an integral part of the steering geometry.

The present problem of needle returning to E and engine cutting off, is due to a faulty switch mounted in the pump. This sw get current from the ign. sw and so does the fuel meter, stop lights and turn indicators.
Any short circuit at this component makes the fuel meter die too. Even your lights would be dying during such moments.
Have the diesel pump switch replaced and let us know.
Some people commented that a jeep cam be pushed started without a battery, and this is wrong for any Peugeot motor which has this switch connected with the ign circuit where we turn off the engine by the key.

Always with you,
yours. UBS

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

The float position has changed for the worse, meaning the fuel goes to one corner of the tank and it drives the needle to show E. Have the float's nozzle from where the fuel is picked up checked... In short, check the entire Fuel tank and its inside equipment.

It happens even on level ground, so it may not be fuel moving around.

Originally Posted by U.B.Singh

your thread on a diesel 340 Jeep, has covered almost all aspects of jeep trouble shooting.

UBS Sir, this thread is just a collection of all the dumb questions I could ask about my Jeep.

Originally Posted by U.B.Singh

Maybe some more light should be thrown on the steering system and the 'knuckle' which is an integral part of the steering geometry.

The trouble is I am not very technical about automotive things, so I have trouble explaining the exact fix made by the mechanics on my Jeep. The steering problem was fixed, but the method still eludes me.

Originally Posted by U.B.Singh

The present problem of needle returning to E and engine cutting off, is due to a faulty switch mounted in the pump. This sw get current from the ign. sw and so does the fuel meter, stop lights and turn indicators.
Any short circuit at this component makes the fuel meter die too. Even your lights would be dying during such moments.
Have the diesel pump switch replaced and let us know.

Ok Sir, I'll get that done ASAP, this theory makes lot more sense.

Originally Posted by U.B.Singh

Some people commented that a jeep cam be pushed started without a battery, and this is wrong for any Peugeot motor which has this switch connected with the ign circuit where we turn off the engine by the key.

True. And I have noticed that DI engines have a seperate button just for switching off the engine. How does that work?

[sudev]

Originally Posted by Samurai

True. And I have noticed that DI engines have a seperate button just for switching off the engine. How does that work?

That cuts off the fuel to injector pump and so the engine stops. It is much better than having to stop the engine by deliberate stalling - a technique used in old generation engines and even today by most truck/bus drivers.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by sudev

.... to stop the engine by deliberate stalling - a technique used in old generation engines and even today by most truck/bus drivers.

Well, all diesel (heavy) vehicles have a small wire connected on to the "bonnet" which is pulled to switch off the engine. Sometimes, the accelerator pedal has to be pulled up. This physically cuts off fuel to the fuel pump. (actually, something inside the fule pump cuts out, switching off the engine).

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by Alfa_Kilo

You 'half crank' the key to warm the combustion chambers with glow plugs in your engine. As this is an IDI engine, glow plugs are absolutely essential. Some moderns DIs also have glow plugs, probably to reduce cold start emmisions.

Abhimanyu, this was probably your very last public message, if not the very last communication with anybody just hours before your sad and shocking demise. Even with your last Team-BHP post you taught me something I didn't know, I'll remember this factoid along with your memory. Rest in Peace.

Those who are not aware of Alfa_Kilo's sad demise, please check here: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...alfa_kilo.html (Rest in peace - Alfa_kilo)

Originally Posted by sudev

Electric pump: Is it an OE fitting or add on? If you remove the electric pump what happens?

The mechanic swore he had not seen it last year, and I don't remember adding it. I need to check with Mahindra workshop whether they added it while they did numerous jobs on it since last year. Or may be Jammy can remember.

Originally Posted by sudev

What he opened was the low pressure return line and if that has air in it is needs to be checked. Is your fuel tank original? Original tanks have baffle inside to stop fuel from moving too freely / sloshing inside the tank. May be DB can throw some more light?

Any way to check whether it is original?

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Samurai

Ok, I think I can identify most parts here.

Attachment 21174

17) Steering rod?
18) This makes sure both wheels turn together, what's the name?
19) front differential
20) Leaf springs, this is connected to the live axle in the middle and the chassis is suspended at both the ends. This is basically the suspension which bears the weight of the vehicle.
21) Shock Absorber or Dampner. This dampens sudden movement of the suspended chassis in uneven roads.
22) chassis
23) Live axle.
24) Wheel drum, the brakes reside inside this.

Meanwhile, can somebody shed some light on what one needs to carry on the Jeep for emergencies. And why they are needed, and how to use them.

17) Steering rod? ---> Tie rod right
18) This makes sure both wheels turn together, what's the name? --> Tie rod left
19) front differential --> Crown or differntial housing (actual differntial stays inside this housing)
20) Leaf springs, this is connected to the live axle in the middle and the chassis is suspended at both the ends. This is basically the suspension which bears the weight of the vehicle.
21) Shock Absorber or Dampner. This dampens sudden movement of the suspended chassis in uneven roads.
22) chassis
23) Live axle. --> Axle housing, the original axle is the rod which goes inside this tube
24) Wheel drum, the brakes reside inside this. --> This is carrier plate, The wheel drum is the drum or break drum is the one attached to the hub, it will be in the outerside

Now some more items for your information:

25) Steering Dampner clamp
26) Knuckle (right)
27) Tie rod ends
28) Shakle
29) U clamp
30) Differntial housing Breather
31) Bell Crank
32) Front Bumper
33) Front properler shaft or drive shaft
34) Engine oil sump

Meanwhile, can somebody shed some light on what one needs to carry on the Jeep for emergencies. And why they are needed, and how to use them.

This is a very open question, here are some known stuffs to carry:

a. Winch
b. High lift jack
c. Normal jack
d. all neccessary tools (Plier, sphere kit, hammer, alenkey drivers, screw drivers of both types etc.)
e. Radiator hose kit (top and bottom)
f. Cable kit (clutch, accelerator and break)
g. Any non-standard fitment on the jeep (altered part as they will not be available elsewhere)
h. Flash light, head strap light or working lamp
i. A plastic sheet spread incase required to work under body
j. Water & Fuel cans
k. Air filter element (if paper element is used, must have when water crossing is expected)
l. Break oil
m. M-Seal, Anabond and silicon gasket sealant paste (incase of any leak which needs to be addressed on temporary basis)
n. D-Shakle, Tow robe, Trunk protector, atleast one gunny bag (used as tracktion system or energy absorber) and head lamp bulbs
o. Good spare wheel (I have seen many times that few chaps turn to OTR without stepney or flatned sparewheel. Please avoid this)
p. Puncture kit (Tyre inflator, and other stuffs for repairing the puncture)
q. last but not least ---> carry a good knowledge about your jeep which will be the one going to save you from panicky situations.

[svsantosh]

Dear Sharat and Other BHPians,

In the last 1 year there is one avenue unexplored by all here. The interior. Agreed there is not much, but with whatever is offered, why not discuss and make it part of this Jeep-Bible.

Here we go.
Thanks to BeeJay Benny's Un-Touched CJ340.

1) What is this switch?
2) What is this?
3) What is this light bulb?
4) What is this RED light bulb?
5) Red - Does this Glow WHEN OIL PRESSURE is ABOVE AND/OR BELOW Normal?
Green (missing here) - indicates Turn Signals
Red (Not seen here) - Glows when Parking brake is pulled ON
6) Hand Brake lever (Missing on many CJ340's due to bad maintenance. Samurai - Does your CJ have it in working condition.
7) Ignition Key holder/switch - Samurai can you post a closeup picture from your jeep. I want to see how it looks.

And the ARROW - Samurai - can you Please post a Pic from this angle standing outside the Jeep Driver side. I want to know how/where the Hand brake lever is fabricated onto the Body.

[Samurai]

1) No Idea.
2) No Idea.
3) Indicates that headlights are on, it switches off in high beam.
4) Battery charging light. If it remains off, your battery ain't charging.
5) Oil pressure lamp, mine is missing, so I use the oil pressure guage. If it lights up during the drive, stop the Jeep and check the oil level, hoses.
6) Mine is missing. I have ordered for a new one, but nothing is happening.
7) This will have to wait a little.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Hello Sharath & all - sorry, I was travelling and also no time - I will explain what nos 1 through 7 mean. It is as follows:

1 ----- this is a mechanical cable actuated engine idling rpm control knob. In the original French Peugeot XDP4.90 engine, there was a thermocouple induced throttle opener solenoid attached to the coolant outlet union. In the Indian version, this was converted to a mechanically actuated rpm controller. You turn the knob clockwise to increase engine idling speed. It is dependent on the cable slack. If slack is too much, there will be no movement at the pump.

2 ----- seems to be some non-standrad switch.

3 ----- it is a high beam indicator. It should be on when headlights are in high beam. Sharath, if my memory is correct, your CJ340 has a PMP make aftermarket headlight relay. Just interchange the switch actuation wires. High beam is to be actuated by pushing the lever away from the steering wheel. In your case it may have been connected wrongly. It is better to apply some black coating on it using a permanent marker as it used to irritate me in the night. It shines too brightly.

4 ----- yes, it is the battery charging light but Sharath, if it is OFF, the battery is charging. If it is ON, the battery is not charging. Read carefully. The CJ340 has the Lucas TVS SA15 alternator. When the engine is not running (alternator rpm is zero) and the ignition key is switched on, the field excitation currect flows through the filament of this tiny bulb. If this bulb blows, the alternator will not charge. It is very important to check that this bulb is glowing when you turn the key on before you start the engine. In all my fiat / maruti 800 cars which use the same alternator, I make it a point to use the finest quality original GE / Philips bulb only at this location. It is a just a 2 watt bulb and costs only 100 rupees but if it has blown and you turn the alternator (means you start the engine), the alternator diodes will blow off. Therefore, also ensure that the connector to this bulb is perfect. If everything is OK and you start the engine, the light will not go off as long as the engine is idling. You increase the rpm once above 1400, the light will go off. Now even if you come back to idling rpm, the light will not come on again. This means that everything is OK. The cutoff charging rpm for 2 watts bulb is 1400 rpm. For 2.2 watts bulb it is 1200 rpm but 2.2 watt bulb is a little difficult to find. Keep this bulb working, you will save thousands of rupees in alternator repair bills.

5 ----- the one on the top is the oil pressure warning light. It is important as it will attract immediate attention to any malfunction in the lubrication circuit, especially in the night. The middle one is for the RH / LH signal light telltale. The bottom one is for the handbrake cum FLWI (fluid level warning indicator), indicating a fall in brake oil level. Actuation is through switches attached to the handbrake ratchet and the master cylinder fluid filler.

6 ----- this is the handbrake lever. This pulls a cable which actuates a lever operating on a drum attached to the rear of the transfer case. The handbrake effectiveness of this system is extremely poor. All these parts are now obsolete so you will not get replacements.

7 ----- this is the ignition switch.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar