[Jaggu]

Spike i also was referring to vapor lock situations, when hot. This issue seems to have increased with BS 4 fuel. Just a theory from my experience. On the other hand un leaded fuel eats the valve seats of these old engines faster, so ideally replace them with hardened seats when you do a rebuild. Again finding such large valve seats for a Hurricane is a big pain.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Spike i also was referring to vapor lock situations, when hot. Just a theory from my experience.

Oh Ok.

This issue seems to have increased with BS 4 fuel.

Interesting! What is causing this issue when BS-IV fuel is used? Need to explore further.

so ideally replace them with hardened seats when you do a rebuild.

Hardened seats? What is done here?

Spike

[Jaggu]

Google for some info Spikee Basically something like this but with a harder material.

Replacing Valve Seats in Cylinder Heads

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by Shubz

By any chance?? By all chance it will sputter! On the trial with Babu, he asked me to drive as normal as I was driving on low rpms/speeds. it was doing fine. But when I was about to reach home, it sputterred and died in the middle of the road! Presence of mind, pulled the EFP switch and cranked - it roared to life and I moved on with the EFP on.

Hi Shubz,

Why do you think the vehicle sputtered and stopped?

How did the EFP, start the vehicle, since it is connected in Tandem?

Regards,

Arka

[Shubz]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Shubz,

The 'Jaggu research paper' reasoning should immensely help you.

Get rid of one (not required) petrol filter of the two you have, for a smoother flow.

Run your Jeep on electric pump full time.

Don't be concerned about the rich fuel, your new engine needs it.

Don't wait for it to sputter and stop, as the fuel starvation to your newly overhauled engine could lead to engine seizure, a possibility you can avoid.

Don't bother about the trials at this stage, 'let me see when it stops', kind.

During summer, this assist electric pump is a must even for the best tuned Jeeps, believe me, as we are running atleast a 50+ year old pump that has lost its 100% potential due to mechanical wear, engine heat, etc. in a traffic which couldn't be envisioned 50 years ago.

Your pump ideally must be under the fuel tank, after the filter, fixed in the inside of the C section of your chassis, this placement will keep it cocooned and protected in off road situations.

Action:
Gravity> filter> pump> suck> reach carburetor.
Regards,

Fazal sir -

Good suggestion on removing 1 of the filters, would do that first thing.

EFP is indeed under the Fuel tank, just 6 inches away from the C section! Heck why don't I put up pictures for better representation. I will do that too.

Off road- I don't intend to go off road till I find everything in order on-road

Originally Posted by ex670c

Hi Shubz,

Why do you think the vehicle sputtered and stopped?

How did the EFP, start the vehicle, since it is connected in Tandem?

Regards,

Arka

Arka sir,

You set me thinking alright! Why did the vehicle sputter, cos i think it is like an aged heart, cannot pump on its own and the heat not making its life any easier.

EFP started the vehicle as it could be acting up like a pace maker - fill the OE pump with fuel so that much load on it is reduced and/or the the diaphragm is so weak that it can do only one action - pumping it to the carb.

secondly - I remember Gopal saying that he is not too sure about the way the AC pump is assembled, A spring is not the original spring.

But then - my question is - I was running on the very same diaphragm/spring/ EFP combo - and I used to use the EFP only to aid starting. It never sputtered on me before the rebuild. I was so confident about the AC pump that I thought EFP is only an ornament

[Jaggu]

Shubz i also keep EFP as an ornament in DwArF but 2 weeks back under extreme conditions i need it to kick in once in a while. Funny thing in my case was i never needed it continuously. Leave EFP On for few minutes and then the MFP also comes back to normal.

Yes you can keep a good filter right after the tank and chuck the one before the MFP.

[Shubz]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Shubz i also keep EFP as an ornament in DwArF but 2 weeks back under extreme conditions i need it to kick in once in a while. Funny thing in my case was i never needed it continuously. Leave EFP On for few minutes and then the MFP also comes back to normal.

Yes you can keep a good filter right after the tank and chuck the one before the MFP.

Jaggu - your FP is the modern type I guess so may not need the EFP as much as my goldie oldie FP needs. I will check back with Gopal as he said he would source a pump kit and/or a pump from the guy who got your PS.

Filter right after the tank is an ordinary one I guess, and the one after the EFP is Purolator (I guess its Opel Astra's filter).

Plus I need to gift Gopal and his team a shirt n a trouser material for the good job that they have done on the Hulk (not sure if they'd like it though)

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Shubz - I have worked on this problem in detail. Please do exactly as I have detailed to Jaggu. Nothing else will work. Please believe me, return line is a must.

If you want, I will provide details once again.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Jaggu]

All the info you wanted Shubz. http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post1790402


Yenjaaaaaaaay!

Thanks BD.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Shubz - I have worked on this problem in detail. Please do exactly as I have detailed to Jaggu. Nothing else will work. Please believe me, return line is a must.

If you want, I will provide details once again.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Shubz]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

All the info you wanted Shubz. http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post1790402


Yenjaaaaaaaay!

Thanks BD.

Awesome explanation! A few points noted on my set up.

I do not have an inlet connector on my fuel tank now.

The piping is directly from the mechanical pump to the carb, in the way of the draft of the fan.

so to make this arrangement possible, I may need to go for a new tank.

and I hate the Brrrrrr of the EFP! lol But I got to live with it for now. Engine is running real real rich! and making me poorer! ran about 50 kms and 1000 bucks of fuel burnt! Luckily stalled inside my house so ran and got a 2 ltr bottle of fuel so i could park the Jeep in its designated parking space. Got to be careful on this front (fuel gauge is as reliable as asking a drunkard for directions)

Topped up coolant in the radiator and filled half the coolant sump with coolant and 1/4th with water.

[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by Shubz

Engine is running real real rich! and making me poorer!

Shubz,
Loved the above, welcome to the world of Petro Jeeping.
Sent your requirement through speed post it should be reaching you in two days.
Regards,

[Shubz]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Shubz,
Loved the above, welcome to the world of Petro Jeeping.
Sent your requirement through speed post it should be reaching you in two days.
Regards,

Oh I had braced myself for this. And with the mechanical pump running (prior to the rebuild) I wasn't getting poorer that badly! Thanks to the likes of Fazal sir, DB sir, UB sir, Jaggu, Arka, Pavan and host of others without which I would've been running around like a headless chicken! Hunt for a OE pump is on! Full swing!

[Shubz]

Seems like I may lay my hands on a OE fuel pump from the US. Can anybody tell me what the PART NUMBER of double action fuel pump is?

[PAVAN KADAM]

Originally Posted by Shubz

Seems like I may lay my hands on a OE fuel pump from the US. Can anybody tell me what the PART NUMBER of double action fuel pump is?

I think i had referred to this earlier.

The part number must be 647669, Its actually displayed on the Side of the Fuel pump.

Not really sure, but please do look up using the above number, you might find it...

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Pavan, 647669 is not the part no. for Fuel pump AFAIK, 647669 corresponds to part no. for- Fuel & Vacuum pump spacer.

Spike