[::CMS::]

Any reason for powering the rears from the amp, better would be to power the fronts using the amp and the rears using the HU if you are driving the car.

BTW, disconnect the rears and connect the fronts to the amp and see whether the issue is reproducible. If not, then connect the rears to the HU (assuming you are using it as a rear fill) and see. Do a thorough check of all the connections (loose contacts) before doing any changes.

[iTNerd]

Originally Posted by ::CMS::

Any reason for powering the rears from the amp, better would be to power the fronts using the amp and the rears using the HU if you are driving the car.

BTW, disconnect the rears and connect the fronts to the amp and see whether the issue is reproducible. If not, then connect the rears to the HU (assuming you are using it as a rear fill) and see. Do a thorough check of all the connections (loose contacts) before doing any changes.

my mistake, the front components and subwoofer are powered from the amp, while the rears is powered from the headunit. The problem is, it is very difficult to reproduce, as I mentioned, this issue happened in rare case/time (after a prolong run of the car, with music volume peaking).

[::CMS::]

Is the sub working fine when the issue comes up? If so interchange the channels, use channel A for sub and channel B for the fronts and see the results.

[iTNerd]

Originally Posted by ::CMS::

Is the sub working fine when the issue comes up? If so interchange the channels, use channel A for sub and channel B for the fronts and see the results.

the woofer seem to work that time around. But I will give a try soon on interchanging the channels.

[StrangeWizard]

I want to install new rear speakers in my Chevrolet Beat.

Since a parcel tray cannot be fitted (there is a CNG tank), I am looking for something that should fit in the stock 6x4 location provided by Chevy.

An ICE guy told me it is possible to fit 5" speakers in that location too.

He suggested Soundstream speakers to me.

So I need your suggestions as to what speakers should I install?
The front speakers are Pioneer 4" coaxials and the HU is Pioneer too.

Just need a decent sounding set-up from anyone of these combinations -

1) 4" speakers at the front and back.
2) 4" speakers at the front and 6x4 at the back. (rare size)
3) 4" speakers at the front and 5" at the back.

Please suggest some brands and model numbers too, if possible. I listen to all sorts of music at medium to slightly high volumes.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by StrangeWizard

I want to install new rear speakers in my Chevrolet Beat.

Since a parcel tray cannot be fitted (there is a CNG tank), I am looking for something that should fit in the stock 6x4 location provided by Chevy. ...

Look for 5x7 coaxials - they are likely to fit in that OE location. 5x7 coaxials used to be standard in Ford earlier. Rare, but not too difficult to find, especially with large dealers. A 5x7 coaxial would be better than a 5.25" (there are no 5" speakers) coaxial. Do audition the speakers before you buy!

[bhardwhu]

Hello,

I have purchased an Infinity basslink powered subwoofer for my Hyundai Accent hatchback, here in US.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...pr_product_top


Could somebody please advise the right wiring to hook it up?

Thanks

Himanshu

[S_U_N]

I am a complete noob when it comes to car audio. Both my cars are pre-owned and come with audio/ CD/mp3 player which I have not felt a need to upgrade.

However one tragedy and stupidity from the electrician who was working on our beloved Zen has caused me to post this.

Our Zen is being restored completely and hence as part of this everything was removed and put back. In this process the electrician messed up the wiring.
So, when I put the front faceplate of my trusty JVC KD-G384, the display LCD just lit up in green with some gray patches inside.
Later on, I discovered, that this happens even if the car key is not even inserted. The car is still at the workshop during all this while.

Now, the electrician (on phone) guided the mechanic to cut one red and yellow wire and connect them elsewhere. This has resulted in the display lighting up only when the key is turned to ignition position. So, one problem is solved.
But the player still does not respond to any buttons nor does the display change in any way. The CD disc also does not go in.

Is this system repairable by any chance?

There are four speakers connected in the car. I am wondering if I can save this fantastic stereo somehow.

[sudeep.pandya]

Now that I have finally decided to upgrade my sub to Infinity Kappa 120.9 I have some doubts. Gurus, please enlighten -

- As the sub comes with an impedance selector (4 Ohms and 2 Ohms), what impedance is needed for the JBL GTO804EZ? The rear is in bridged mode. Why 4 ohms and why 2 ohms (I searched a lot about this but no one seems to give the exact reason for this) What 4 ohms and 2 ohms would do?

- The suggested enclosure size is 1.0 Cu.ft. however, audiophiles strongly suggest 0.8 Cu.ft size. What difference would this make? Also, how to measure the same?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by S_U_N

... the electrician messed up the wiring.
So, when I put the front faceplate of my trusty JVC KD-G384, the display LCD just lit up in green with some gray patches inside. ... Is this system repairable by any chance? ...

Any good installer should be able to set right the wiring. The power and ACC wires are still not correct - most likely the key wire is going to +12V, and +12V is not connected. Unlikely that the HU has gone kaput. JVC service center should be able to confirm health.

Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya

... Why 4 ohms and why 2 ohms ...

- Most multichannel amps are only 2 ohms stable (per channel). Failure chances increase if the impedance connected is less than this
- Most Mono amps are also 2 ohms stable. A few are 1 ohm stable
- If you are bridging 2 (2 ohms stable) channels, the correct impedance should be 4 ohms, since each channel will look at 2 ohms. If you connect 2 ohms, each channel will see 1 ohm and may fail
- If you are connecting a Mono amp, or the 5th channel of a 5-channel amp, you can connect at 2 ohms

Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya

... The suggested enclosure size is 1.0 Cu.ft. however, audiophiles strongly suggest 0.8 Cu.ft size. What difference would this make? Also, how to measure the same?

- Most off-the-shelf (sealed) boxes are 1+ cu.ft., and work well with most (economical) subs
- 120.9 however sounds a bit boomy at that volume
- To sound tight and fast, best is 0.7-0.8 cu.ft. "Tight and fast" means, for example, drum sounds 'Dhup' (like one hears in a live band) as opposed to 'Dhump'. This doesn't mean that it changes resonant electronic bass like what is there in Hip Hop and 'Sheila ki jawaani' (best song to test the sub as the bass goes really low - should vibrate your IRVM)
- Difficult to calculate the internal volume, especially because the back wall is usually slanted. You can, of course, measure internal dimensions and calculate

[sudeep.pandya]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

- 120.9 however sounds a bit boomy at that volume

I learnt that there are 2 variants in kappa series, 100.9 & 120.9. The 10" looks quite VFM with almost same specs as 120.9. What do you think about this?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya

I learnt that there are 2 variants in kappa series, 100.9 & 120.9. The 10" looks quite VFM with almost same specs as 120.9. What do you think about this?

Let's look at the maths:
- Bass loudness depends on quantity of air moved
- Quantity of air moved depends on area of the subwoofer cone
- Area of the 12" cone of 120.9 is at least 1.44x the cone area of the 10" 100.9!

Your choice: loudness or lesser cost?

[Harsh_1507]

Hi gurus,
have been following T-BHP for a couple of years now and finally decided to take the plunge to register!
I bought a verna fluidic a couple of months back and need advice for a good sounding set up for my car.
My budget is around 50k and I mostly listen to EDM and hip-hop. So good bass is a necessity. And I don't want to change the Head Unit at any cost as I like to keep the interiors clean. Please help!

[arunphilip]

Here's my ICE query - should I clean up my unused wiring?

I have a 2006 Getz bought second-hand in 2011, which came fitted with a Pioneer single-DIN head unit, 4 speakers and 2 tweeters:

• 2 tweeters at the base of the A pillar
• 2 speakers in the front door
• 2 speakers on an MDF panel for the parcel tray

There was also wiring that ran to the boot, presumably for a sub-woofer (since there's a thick power cable, and a pair of RCA cables); and there's a couple of loose RCA jacks under the passenger seat, presumably for an amp. Either the original owner removed his ICE kit before selling his car to the dealer, or else Trident Hyundai did this. There's also what looks like a JBL speaker under the dashboard - this is about 4x4 inches, with a grille in the front. For the life of me, I don't know what its doing under there. I thought it might be a crossover, but it doesn't have the controls that I've normally seen on crossovers! I found this earlier today when I was inspecting where to fit the cabin air filter.

In any case, I had a functional (though non-amplified) ICE when I picked up the car in 2011. Shortly thereafter, I found myself annoyed by the MDF board which was squeaking/rattling, so I went ahead and removed the rear 2 speakers/board, and just taped off the wires. (On this forum, I know this amounts to sacrilege. Burn me at the stake later for this )

I later swapped out the Pioneer HU for a Kenwood single-DIN HU, since I needed USB input. At that time, I also removed the power tap from the battery terminal that was leading to the amp/sub and taped this off, just to avoid any leakage.

So, today I'm running with:

• Kenwood HU
• 2 speakers in the front door pads
• 2 tweeters at the base of the A-pillar

I'm fully happy with how this is functioning, no complaints there. As my second (beater) car, I'm not too fussed about any upgrade either.

However, I do want your opinions on whether I should remove the unused cabling in the car:

• Power cable from the battery to the passenger compartment/boot
• Signal cables from the passenger seat to the boot
• Some other wiring I noticed under the dashboard
• That wonky JBL speaker thing
• Any other unused cabling

I like the idea of removing the cabling to leave a cleaner car, without unknown wires running around. On the other hand, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' - I don't want to cause problems by attempting this unnecessary cleanup.

What are your thoughts (keep or remove) and why?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Harsh_1507

... I bought a verna fluidic a couple of months back and need advice for a good sounding set up for my car.
My budget is around 50k and I mostly listen to EDM and hip-hop. So good bass is a necessity. And I don't want to change the Head Unit at any cost as I like to keep the interiors clean. Please help!

What you need:
1. A pair of components for the front (6-10K; Infinity, JBL, Polk, Bull, Morel etc.)
2. A pair of coaxials for the rear doors (3K; ditto)
3. A 12" subwoofer in a sealed box in the boot (6-10K; Infinity Kappa, Polk, JBL etc.)
4. A 4-channel amp (>=6K; Kenwood M846, JBL X646, etc.)
5. Possibly a Line Output Converter (if your OE HU doesn't have RCA Pre-outs; about 2K)
6. Power wires, Speaker wires, RCA cables (2-3K)

Visit some large dealers and audition the speakers (with your own music), preferably installed in cars. Make sure all tone controls and equalizers are set to 0. Don't worry - if you listen to music regularly you will be able to judge them yourself. What matters is your ears guiding the selection, not someone else's. Some you will like, some you will go ugh! Don't buy without listening to the product you are buying. Don't go by sales statements such as "I can guarantee you this will sound great / super / fantastic in your car".

Originally Posted by arunphilip

... 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' ...

Best policy under your circumstances: leave them as they are. Just make sure loose wire ends and connectors (on both sides of any wire / cable) are identified and insulated.