[Ragul]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Nothing wrong with it, but the JBL is much better (more robust too).

Hi DerAlte
I heard the Sony has heating problems, but I am tempted by the much cheaper Sony, unless I can get my hands on the cheaper 2 channel version of the JBL GX.
Now I am unable to find a good price for a wiring kit that is OFC and not CCA. Which one do you recommend and indications of approx current pricing?

The older posts seem to hint at around 2K for a brand like scosche which is CCA but I am being quoted 3.5K!

Thanks
R

[mukeshgoel]

I bought an 8 inch subwoofer (Polk DB840) to use it in Swift. Earlier JBL CS1215B is too big for Swift's boot and I do not need much bass.

I have thought of getting the box with following dimensions:

Width = 10.2 inch
Height = 10.2 inch
Depth1 = 7.5 inch
Depth2 = 10.5 inch

I will try to get it with wood thickness of 0.75 inch (I don't know what is the wood thickness these box makers use).

Is it correct size?

PS: Someone please suggest me a good place in Delhi/Gurgaon to get it. And what is the cost of getting such box normally?.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Ragul

... I heard the Sony has heating problems, but I am tempted by the much cheaper Sony, unless I can get my hands on the cheaper 2 channel version of the JBL GX. ...

I doubt if it is a generic problem with Sony amps. You just have to make sure it is mounted in a place where there is at least 3" clearance on all sides (other than bottom ). A 2-channel is not VFM in the long run.

Originally Posted by Ragul

... Now I am unable to find a good price for a wiring kit that is OFC and not CCA. Which one do you recommend and indications of approx current pricing? ...

Scosche should be 2K, not 3.5K. In any case, you can buy separately instead of buying kit. Get OFC speaker cables from a Home Theatre shop. Use conventional teflon-covered domestic wiring multi-strand cables of Havells etc. for power wiring.

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

I bought an 8 inch subwoofer (Polk DB840) to use it in Swift. ...
Width = 10.2 inch
Height = 10.2 inch
Depth1 = 7.5 inch
Depth2 = 10.5 inch

I will try to get it with wood thickness of 0.75 inch (I don't know what is the wood thickness these box makers use).

Is it correct size? ...

Yes, almost all sub boxes are made of 19mm MDF (not wood or ply).

Are these external dimensions or internal? Check the data sheet - it will give the recommended sealed box internal volume. I expect the internal volume to be around 0.6cft. You can then use 10.2"x10.2" as the faceplate dimension, and calculate the depths (I think by D1 and D2 you are referring to top and base front-to-back depth).

The readymade ones in the market (19mm MDF, approx 1.1cft meant for 12" subs, covered with carpet) cost 800-1200.

[EDIT]The Datasheet says VAS = 0.42cft, so 0.5-0.6 cft would be good. The limiting factor would be practical dimensions. This would mean top depth of 6.5" and bottom depth of 13" (internal dimensions) if the faceplate internal dimensions are 9.5"x9.5".

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Are these external dimensions or internal?

The Datasheet says VAS = 0.42cft, so 0.5-0.6 cft would be good. The limiting factor would be practical dimensions. This would mean top depth of 6.5" and bottom depth of 13" (internal dimensions) if the faceplate internal dimensions are 9.5"x9.5".

Thanks.

These are external dimensions. I got an idea about size from readymade boxes available for 8 inch sub on Crutchfield.com.

I want the box to be as small as possible. Do you think if I get a box of external dimensions 10.2x10.2x[7.5-10.5] will be too much compromise in sound quality? (some compromise is OK).

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

... I want the box to be as small as possible. Do you think if I get a box of external dimensions 10.2x10.2x[7.5-10.5] will be too much compromise in sound quality? ...

Not really a compromise at all.

I don't have access to Autocad to compute the volume (and I am too lazy to compute it manually), but the box size with these dimensions and the dimensions I had approximated - both are slightly larger (~0.5cft) than the T-S VAS volume on Polk website (0.42cft).

A larger than VAS box volume tends to be boomier, and smaller one limits the lowest frequency the sub will significantly play (please don't expect too much - the Fs is only 49 Hz, much better than 6x9 coaxials, but cannot be compared with a 12" or 10"). If you find it a bit too boomy (too much box volume), you can always reduce volume by putting in a brick (0.07cft) or by putting in 200-300g of polyfibre stuffed in a cloth bag. Better to have a larger box to start with - you can't correct a smaller box.

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

I doubt if it is a generic problem with Sony amps. You just have to make sure it is mounted in a place where there is at least 3" clearance on all sides (other than bottom ). A 2-channel is not VFM in the long run.

Scosche should be 2K, not 3.5K. In any case, you can buy separately instead of buying kit. Get OFC speaker cables from a Home Theatre shop. Use conventional teflon-covered domestic wiring multi-strand cables of Havells etc. for power wiring.

That was very useful thanks! Now what is the minimum I should get that is car audio specific and is there a minimalistic kit that covers only those items for example - fuse/holder terminals, and +8ft RCA etc... ?
Thanks again!
R

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

I don't have access to Autocad to compute the volume (and I am too lazy to compute it manually)

There is a website which lets you do it easily.

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm

[::CMS::]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

you can always reduce volume by putting in a brick (0.07cft)

Make sure its fixed to avoid hitting the driver and damage it.

or by putting in 200-300g of polyfibre stuffed in a cloth bag

Polyfibre will reduce the velocity of the soundwaves and will give the driver an impression of a bigger enclosure, in simple terms polyfibre stuffing will increase the "box size".

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Ragul

That was very useful thanks! Now what is the minimum I should get that is car audio specific and is there a minimalistic kit that covers only those items for example - fuse/holder terminals, and +8ft RCA etc... ? ...

1. Eyelet Crimp Lug for screwing on the power cable to the battery + terminal
2. Eyelet Crimp Lug for Earthing wire
3. Inline Fuseholder (self-contained, doesn't need anything else)
4. Power Cable (3-5m depending on where you place the amp). Earthing needs only a short length to the nearest bolt on the chassis
5. RCA Cables - yes, 8' should be sufficient
6. Plastic Zip-ties (to hold down the cables and prevent them from rattling and fraying)

Haven't seen a 'minimalistic' kit - all the kits give more than one needs. Accessory shops sell by the piece too - they usually have everything other than good speaker and power wires.

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Not really a compromise at all.

I got the box and I am quite happy with it.

Please suggest me some kind of connector to use when I want to remove subwoofer.

I was using banana plugs with my JBL CS1215B and I was happy with it.

But I could not find banana plug socket in the local market to use with box.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

... Please suggest me some kind of connector to use when I want to remove subwoofer.

I was using banana plugs with my JBL CS1215B and I was happy with it. ...

Ask at any shop that sells electronics spares. There are many in Delhi, especially in Nehru Place or Lajpatrai Market. You can even get it online. Look for a black connector with red and black terminals which is put on the box of a PA system speaker.

Be sure to seal it with rubber 'washer' and silicone glue when mounting on the sub box.

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

You can even get it online.

Can you suggest any link to buy it online? If not, any link to the pictures of such connector for better understanding?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Can you suggest any link to buy it online? If not, any link to the pictures of such connector for better understanding?

Something like this (pic from Wikipedia): http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...gs_speaker.jpg

[HighwayofLife]

Hi All, I have an Arc Audio XDI 804 Class D Amp that produces 145 W if two channels are bridged.
Q1: Can I use a bridged configuration to power my 3 way component speaker system.
Q2: If yes, do I need to split the front RCAs from the HU using a Y splitter and feed 4 RCAs into the amp? Just curious to know if this will reduce quality of output. My idea is to save some money on my install and not buy a complete set of new amps for my upgrade, since I already have a 4 channel Class D amp.
Q3: I'm planning on the Flux Audio BC 361, which is a 60W RMS 3-way Component Speaker system. Can this speaker no effectively be powered by a single channel (80W) of the Arc Audio amp, rather than even the bridged config? Obviously this would make installation easier and save me some big bucks.
Q4: I am going for a complete audiophile set-up primarily to play blues, jazz, and acoustic music (Eric Clapton and the like). This install will happen in a Scorpio. Will an Infinity Kappa 100.9w (10 inch sub) suffice, or is a 12 inch sub (such as the Rainbow DL-S 12) mandatory? Note that both the Infinity sub and the Rainbow sub mentioned have almost identical power rating

[navin]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

I got the box and I am quite happy with it.

Please suggest me some kind of connector to use when I want to remove subwoofer.

For car use I would strongly recommend using a Speakon Connector. See link below.

http://static.rapidonline.com/catalo...67753P01WL.jpg

When it comes to banana plugs I like Wireworld. Super VFM
http://assets1.listeningpost.co.nz/a...nana_Plugs.jpg