[DDIS_RE650]

Originally Posted by AtheK

The tubed tires were CEAT, pirelli were always tubeless as far as I know. You can also check on your tire it should say Tubeless.

Yes, it is mentioned as tubeless. Now it makes sense to order the alloys. I was not ready to throw away almost a new pair of Pirelli. I assume that Pirelli must be superior to CEAT and Vredestein.

[cygwin]

I just experienced my first puncture on my 2023 Inty 650 Mark 2 at 900km.

I planned to set off in the morning but quickly realized something was off with the bike just a few seconds in. Luckily, I was still on my home premises. I examined both tires and found the perpetrator in the rear tire - a screw. It must have been picked up during my last ride, which was 2-3 days ago. I didn't notice the puncture then as the bike was on its center stand.

I was fully aware that this was going to be a headache, especially since it was Sunday. I checked with my nearest tire shop, and, as I expected, the mechanic was not prepared to work with a wheel that had a disc brake and ABS.

My next option was the RSA. I contacted them and, after collecting my location details, they put me on hold for 30 minutes while searching for a nearby service option. They failed to find one. Their next suggestion was to tow my bike to the nearest service center, 17km away. However, they hit another snag when they found out that the service center wasn't open on Sundays. They suggested I wait until Monday morning, as my situation wasn't an emergency since I was safe at home. I agreed to this option.

In the meantime, I decided to order OEM alloys and Vredestein tires from Throttle & Thump. I had previously inquired about the same and they quoted me 26,500, which included both the alloys, tires, and shipping. I placed the order today. I had initially been reluctant to switch to alloys, especially on my Mark 2, as no alloy design seemed to match the rest of the bike's aesthetics. However, I prioritized peace of mind and didn't want to lose another day if a similar situation were to occur again.

[MadTitan]

Originally Posted by cygwin

I just experienced my first puncture on my 2023 Inty 650 Mark 2 at 900km.
In the meantime, I decided to order OEM alloys and Vredestein tires from Throttle & Thump. I had previously inquired about the same and they quoted me 26,500, which included both the alloys, tires, and shipping. I placed the order today. I had initially been reluctant to switch to alloys, especially on my Mark 2, as no alloy design seemed to match the rest of the bike's aesthetics. However, I prioritized peace of mind and didn't want to lose another day if a similar situation were to occur again.

Thank you for sharing this.

The puncture is a real pain on these tubed tyres and I have been stranded twice during my solo rides, both times calling upon RSA for help.
I have placed an order with Throttle & Thump as well, and they seem quite proactive. Promised dispatch tomorrow and will probably get these within the week.

[cygwin]

Originally Posted by MadTitan

Thank you for sharing this.

The puncture is a real pain on these tubed tyres and I have been stranded twice during my solo rides, both times calling upon RSA for help.
I have placed an order with Throttle & Thump as well, and they seem quite proactive. Promised dispatch tomorrow and will probably get these within the week.

Indeed. If I hadn't discovered the puncture immediately after moving the vehicle today, I would have undoubtedly been stranded. I find that quite relieving. I doubt the efficiency of RSA in villages on a weekend. I should have inspected the tires before even starting the vehicle in the first place. Well, that's a lesson!

And yeah, the guy from T&T was super responsive, even on a Sunday. They provided me with the Shiprocket delivery details within just five minutes. I'm looking forward to the installation.

[AtheK]

Pretty interesting to see that while majority of RE Service center still even have clue about part numbers let alone part being in stock, these guys are so quickly able to ship the alloys and tires. Very good alternative, my next thought is about probably installing the Tripper meter, will reach out to them for that.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

But I don't know why still their is a reluctance to perform this job at RE service? Even the new J series engine needs valve adjustments!

Engines need valve adjustments over time. In saying that, that doesn't mean you need to lift the valve cover of the engine during every service interval.

If the Service Centre needs to do valve adjustments for every bike coming in for scheduled service, that's an hour or two gone for one mechanic. In this time, a regular service (excluding valve adjustments) can be done.

Its also down to time and money. If RE aren't going to cover the required warranty service costs, which they could have with all their service centers, they are not going to do it. They will be a certain number of bikes a service center is supposed to attend in a day. However, its not clear to what extent or time they are given per motorcycle. You can ask and maybe they share that data with you.

If the valves aren't making a noise or a racket, why touch them. I'm a little ahead of you, at 24,000 KM and I have zero valve play noise. The only time I hear them is when I start the bike after a gap of a week or longer. That noise lasts for a few seconds as the valves are a little dry of oil. Once oil is pumped up, the noise goes away. You will hear the valves ringing away even if your oil is shot. That is, its lubrication properties are no longer holding up. I've also been changing oil in 6,000km intervals. I think thats about 40% under the manual advised interval. That could also be a reason why I haven't heard the valves as the oil is in pretty good shape even when I send the bike for service.

I report from a different part of the world where a mechanics time on the bike is taken or billed in hours spent. Its a flat rate X hours or time. Only one mechanic works on the bike. The same way we bill as labor cost. I hand my bike for service and they get back to me with all the work that was done. Its their job to tell me if the valves need adjustment. They should know more if the noise is excess or not. Thats the whole point of sending the bike in for service. I can opt for a valve inspection, if need be. I just need to pay for the extra time the mechanic needs to spend lifting the tank, etc. Warranty isn't going to cover this job.

You could ask the service center if they are willing to do the job if you pay for it. An out of warranty sort of task. This isn't a very complex job but I am pretty sure only a handful of mechanics will have the right skill to do this. If that is the case, I would be reluctant to touch somethings that could well be within tolerance.

[DDIS_RE650]

Originally Posted by cygwin

Indeed. If I hadn't discovered the puncture immediately after moving the vehicle today, I would have undoubtedly been stranded. I find that quite relieving. I doubt the efficiency of RSA in villages on a weekend. I should have inspected the tires before even starting the vehicle in the first place. Well, that's a lesson!

And yeah, the guy from T&T was super responsive, even on a Sunday. They provided me with the Shiprocket delivery details within just five minutes. I'm looking forward to the installation.

This is great news, RE is not selling the alloys officially. Hope they should install these.

[nasirkaka]

Btw, RE is now offering a deluxe touring seat which seems to offer better comfort compared to even the existing touring seat.

https://www.royalenfield.com/in/en/g...-seat-1990472/

This is what they should have made from the beginning. Interceptor stock and even the earlier touring seat was too narrow for comfort. With this new approach, they have changed the width of the base plate and increase the seat where it matters by 33%. And this is what some of us achieved with trial and error seat mods at out local seat makers.

On another note, got a new handle bar installed. This handlebar is made by Zana, but i made some changes to all the angles and reduced overall width to try and make it suitable for my usage. After some adjustments, am happy with the outcome.
Have tried various handlebars in the past including stock with riser, without riser, Art of motorcycle bar with and without riser, Bikology bar with riser, and now this modified Zana bar seems to serve the purpose well which is upright riding posture yet sporty stance, and can easily stand and ride. (also thanks to towered pegs). Sharing some pics of a morning ride last weekend and handlebar fitment the same day.

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

If the valves aren't making a noise or a racket, why touch them. I'm a little ahead of you, at 24,000 KM and I have zero valve play noise. The only time I hear them is when I start the bike after a gap of a week or longer. That noise lasts for a few seconds as the valves are a little dry of oil. Once oil is pumped up, the noise goes away. You will hear the valves ringing away even if your oil is shot. That is, its lubrication properties are no longer holding up. I've also been changing oil in 6,000km intervals. I think thats about 40% under the manual advised interval. That could also be a reason why I haven't heard the valves as the oil is in pretty good shape even when I send the bike for service.

You could ask the service center if they are willing to do the job if you pay for it. An out of warranty sort of task. This isn't a very complex job but I am pretty sure only a handful of mechanics will have the right skill to do this. If that is the case, I would be reluctant to touch somethings that could well be within tolerance.

Yes, you're right both time and skill are the issues. As this was a paid service, no question about cost.

I'm not trained with the valve play noise myself. I went to an independent garage and got my bike checked for valve noise while my friend's bike was being worked on. They reported no concerns and we're good

I'll also change the engine oil after 6 months, mostly with Motul 7100

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

I'll also change the engine oil after 6 months, mostly with Motul 7100

Good to hear on the inspection at an independent garage.

Yeah definitely stick to 7100.
My experience with 3100 isn't great so far. The engine hasn't been its best with this oil. Not that its grinding itself to bits. The 7100 grade has a certain smoothness to it which the 3100 does not. Likely the all Synthetic properties.

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

Good to hear on the inspection at an independent garage.

Yeah definitely stick to 7100.
My experience with 3100 isn't great so far. The engine hasn't been its best with this oil. Not that it’s grinding itself to bits. The 7100 grade has a certain smoothness to it which the 3100 does not. Likely the all Synthetic properties.

Have you, or any Bhpian tried Amsoil? I had tried it out on the Himalayan and felt it was good. Can’t comment on long term POV since I sold of the bike just 400 km after the switch.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by cygwin

order OEM alloys and Vredestein tires from Throttle & Thump

Thanks for your suggestion on Throttle & Thump as it was handy to order the tires from them. More details here

Originally Posted by AtheK

For everyone here are part numbers just ask your SC to order these
Hope this helps everyone!

Yes it helps me to be remain more vigilant going forward. I noticed your post after I placed the order as above. Otherwise I could've gone back to RE ASC & insisted they order the tires for me with the part number. Nevertheless, I'll be careful going forward through RE ASC after checking here.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by rakesh_r

Have you, or any Bhpian tried Amsoil?

No.
Will check with the dealer on my next visit.
American company from the looks of it. Link

[Biker Ram]

Recently changed the tyres to Vredestein Centauro. Older tyres were Pirellis that came stock with my 2019 bike. They had done ~15k kms and were long due for a change. Riding was no longer enjoyable if the roads were not super smooth.

Done about 1k kms after the tyre change. Quick impressions, comparing to Pirellis:

• It's more forgiving to ride on broken tarmac. With slightly less air pressure it further improves the ride quality.
• As the Pirellis got older the wobbling issues became very serious. With the tyre change it's all resolved now. High speed stability and low speed maneovourability both have improved.
• I don't see much of a difference in cornering, wet conditions and straight line performance.
• I feel the braking has downgraded a bit. It also feels like the brakes have lost the bite. Don't know how much of it is placebo. Got the brakes checked and got the bleeding done, but not much difference.
• Keeping the price in mind I think they are still a good option from the available choices.

Bought the tyres from Torque Block Bangalore. I wasn't aware that they just sell the tyres and they don't have a workshop of their own to do the fitment. They have partnered with a shop nearby for fitment. The guy who worked on my bike struggled hard to fit the rear wheel back. Later I took it to the service center to check wheel balancing, truing, chain slack adjustment and to check the brakes. They did a good job.

I'm sticking with the spoke wheels for now. In future may consider switching to alloys for the peace of mind.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Biker Ram

I feel the braking has downgraded a bit. It also feels like the brakes have lost the bite. Don't know how much of it is placebo. Got the brakes checked and got the bleeding done, but not much difference

Recently I've switched to Vredestein tires & the brakes are still sharper; however where my case differs from yours is that, the my ODO is around 126xx. Not sure perhaps if I hit your ODO of 15K I may lose the bite. Some of the reasons I can think off are
1. Topping up of brake oil, which is not an expensive affair
2. Wear & tear on the brake pads which can be easily checked & replaced, but little expensive
3. Pads taking its own time adjusting to the new settings of the piston {the brake dusts being cleared off} when the caliper kits were removed when the tires were changed

If #1 & #2 don't tick off, then #3 is the option to consider by giving some more time, say like another 600 more Km before taking it to a competent ASC