[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by carboy

So if I want low charging rate, it would be fine if just one of the two were low rated, right?

i.e. if I want to make sure charging rate is not more than 1A, then if either one of the cable or the plug is 1A, that would be enough to restrict it to 1A

Technically yes. But it is better if you go with a good quality cable either ways.

Like srini mentioned below, load dictates the amount of current drawn. If the phone is capable of drawing 2A from a 2A max rated charger it will do so. However, if the phone is capable of drawing 1A then even with a 2A charger it will draw 1A. This is assuming the cable is capable of allowing more than 2A(theoretically) . If you use a cheap quality cable then, due to the resistance of the cable, there will be overheating of the cable and the charger as well ,because the device is trying to pull 2A but the cable has is rated only upto 1A and anything more is converted into heat due to the resistance of thin conductor cable.

Originally Posted by srini1785

Basic rule :

The load dictates the current drawn from a source. You can't restrict the current drawn from a source using lower size wires or plugs.

Well, partially correct. If the cable cross section is lower than what is required for the required power rating, the energy is lost due to increased resistance in form of heat.

What happens when a 1sq.mm wire is used in a 15A geyser circuit. The wire cannot handle the power demanded by the geyser, eventually will overheat and melt. Similar thing will happen with a mobile phone as well but may not as dramatic

[carboy]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Like srini mentioned below, load dictates the amount of current drawn. If the phone is capable of drawing 2A from a 2A max rated charger it will do so. However, if the phone is capable of drawing 1A then even with a 2A charger it will draw 1A.

So if I want to restrict the current to be 1A, then I have to make sure both the cable and the plug are rated at 1A, right?

[carboy]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Like srini mentioned below, load dictates the amount of current drawn. If the phone is capable of drawing 2A from a 2A max rated charger it will do so. However, if the phone is capable of drawing 1A then even with a 2A charger it will draw 1A.

Ignore my earlier reply. Looks like I misunderstood what you wrote.

If I understand you correctly, if I want to make sure that not more than 1A is drawn, I need to use a 1A plug - then it doesn't matter even if the cable is rated at more than 1A. Do let me know if this is correct?

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by carboy

Ignore my earlier reply. Looks like I misunderstood what you wrote.

If I understand you correctly, if I want to make sure that not more than 1A is drawn, I need to use a 1A plug - then it doesn't matter even if the cable is rated at more than 1A. Do let me know if this is correct?

Yes, you are correct.

[thanixravindran]

Originally Posted by carboy

So if I want to restrict the current to be 1A, then I have to make sure both the cable and the plug are rated at 1A, right?

Cable or plug is not a control element. It is just a transmission line. Either source or load has control elements.

In this case to control at 1A,. you need a 1A max rated source (with internal protection for overload) or you have a load (say, 2A device) that has auto or user setting to use high draw (1A) or low draw (2A) depending on source.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by carboy

If I want to make sure that not more than 1A is drawn

If you want to make sure that no more than 1A is drawn then just use a DC fuse of 1A in series with the load.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Plugs, cables, etc, have an interest way of limiting the current drawn to their rated capacity: they burn up.

[Amrik Singh]

Though in India and in newly constructed house, I use UK design Plugs and Sockets for high power gadgets like Steam Iron, Washing Machine, Immersion Rod etc. and have not had issue if Plug burnout.

[Everlearner]

Any recommendation for a refrigerator? My Whirlpool 240L one has conked off and repair estimate is 5k. I have already spent around 10k on repairs in the last 2-3 years and not interested to pay more for maintaining this one.

I need a capacity of ~ 250L. I don't need a very fancy one, but a value for money and reliable in long term.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Amrik Singh

Though in India and in newly constructed house, I use UK design Plugs and Sockets for high power gadgets like Steam Iron, Washing Machine, Immersion Rod etc. and have not had issue if Plug burnout.

If you imported your MK sockets from UK then I can vouch for the fact that they will be far higher quality than those sold under "MK" mark here. In Britain, sockets, wall switches, etc, are fit and forget. Connections that have come loose, and parts that have lost their grip, are rare.

The only downsides are having to get all those those UK-type plugs, and changing the plugs on all your devices. Also, making sure that the cartridge fuse is correct rating for the appliance --- and having a small stock.

[Amrik Singh]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

If you imported your MK sockets from UK then I can vouch for the fact that they will be far higher quality than those sold under "MK"

I got them from Dubai. Most of these were submitted as 'Samples for Approval' on projects and ended up with me.
Definitely, under Practical scrutiny with me till now.

[ottocycle]

My panasonic's microweb own start stopped working after around 10 years. The display shows digits etc, but start button doesn't do anything.

Service personal visited and said that front panel has to be replaced. He said front panel has to change and gave a quote of 2910/-. Only after front panel installation he can tell what the next problem is. Should I go ahead with the front panel replacement? or I am thinking of rejecting the whole thing if he finds more issues.

[thanixravindran]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

If you imported your MK sockets from UK then I can vouch for the fact that they will be far higher quality than those sold under "MK" mark here. In Britain, sockets, wall switches, etc, are fit and forget.

Any particular reason that you find the quality of Indian MK switches not up to the mark?

[Indepth]

Originally Posted by Everlearner

Any recommendation for a refrigerator?

I usually do my own research but that lasts a few days.
However, for quick suggestion, I sometimes refer this guy on YouTube.
Here is a link regarding your requirement.

https://youtu.be/0CQBjNKTxXo

Source : Youtube.

[deetee]

Originally Posted by Everlearner

Any recommendation for a refrigerator? My Whirlpool 240L one has conked off and repair estimate is 5k. I have already spent around 10k on repairs in the last 2-3 years and not interested to pay more for maintaining this one.

I need a capacity of ~ 250L. I don't need a very fancy one, but a value for money and reliable in long term.

If your whirlpool is powering on (light is coming up) but compressor is not working, then you can exchange it on amazon for a decent discount. You can look for this 253L 3 star convertible model of samsung: RT28T3743S8/HL on amazon. Currently retailing at 26290. There is a 1000Rs coupon discount going on. 10% discount on Sbi card is also there. Add about 2k exchange discount, you may get this for about Rs.21500 which is very sweet deal, if it suits your requirements.

Originally Posted by ottocycle

My panasonic's microweb own start stopped working after around 10 years. The display shows digits etc, but start button doesn't do anything.

Service personal visited and said that front panel has to be replaced. He said front panel has to change and gave a quote of 2910/-. Only after front panel installation he can tell what the next problem is. Should I go ahead with the front panel replacement? or I am thinking of rejecting the whole thing if he finds more issues.

I have had similar issue with Bajaj microwave oven. Digits used to light up but buttons or wheel didn't respond. The repair person quoted similar amount (half of the cost of oven when it was purchased). I rejected and let the oven sit idle for about two weeks. It started working on its own. What I figured is that, in the kitchen, folks used to operate it even with moist hands and dishwashing used to happen at near by sink. All that caused moisture buildup in control panel. So , after it started working again, I relocated it into the main hall away from kitchen and no issues so far.
If your case is due to moisture, then it may start working again after couple of weeks, if you let it dry away from moisture. Unless a similar spec oven is very expensive, a faulty panel replacement at that cost may not be worthy for 10 year old appliance.