[ajayc123]

Originally Posted by diyguy

we had this issue with our Samsung double door that the refrigerator side was fine but the freezer side was not. The engineer said right away it was due to a gas leak. I was skeptical due to my ignorance but he said the gas was low and sufficient for the fridge but was unable to be effective for the freezer. He changed a portion of the copper and refilled the gas and it was worked well since.

Interesting. What I interpreted is that there appears to be a single compressor circuit only in the freezer, as I could see the frozen coils once he removed the module in the freezer. And the cooling to the fridge section was transferred by the fan. So I would expect the fridge portion to be affected as well in a refrigerant leak situation. But, I am unable to conclusively comment.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Do you not use your freezer for long-term storage? Many of us do. It would not be an option to turn it off and let it thaw.

Well that's a good observation, and adds another layer of complexity. In our case the freezer is used for storing dry pulses, spices and flours (besan etc). Not much frozen items other than a small pack of frozen peas.

[Mortis]

Had a similar issue last month with our Hitachi fridge. Immediately figured that it was due to a frost issue because if it was something bigger, both freezer and fridge would stop cooling either. Switched off the fridge for 4 hours or so and then checked again. Cooling had improved slightly. Obviously did not want to keep it off longer or stuff would start to go bad so I repeated the procedure 4-5 times over the next few days and it's back to normal.
Now I do this every Sunday to keep things in good running shape.
I believe it's something good to do on occasion especially during the monsoons and other humid months

[Poitive]

A lot of issues with refrigerators at this time, including those mentioned in recent posts, could simply be due to not adjusting the temperature (knob) of the machine as per season. Reducing cooling as winters approach is a good idea (and of course readjusting again when the weather is warmer).

Surprising that one would need to do such in today's 5G world, but yes, it does help.

PS: Ice formation on external parts and not cooling enough inside might also be due to reduced refrigerant pressure. Often seen in air conditioners.

[ajayc123]

Originally Posted by ajayc123

An interesting lesson from my LG refrigerator servicing.

What was the finding?
In the setup there are two fans, one circulates air to the freezer and the second one to the fridge, but both of them are placed in a module that is fixed inside the freezer. Apparently one of the fans had got jammed (probably due to the moisture that froze on the axle of the fan), thus preventing the rotation. They just removed the module, put some hot water on the fans, and dried them using a hair drier and put it back.

Addendum:
For the specific case, in case the fan stops, the cooling adjustment touch buttons stop working (as confirmed by the service guy)- in which case, the cooling button is pressed repeatedly, the cooling levels don’t change. Instead you would see that 4 out of 5 cooling level lights are always on. If the power supply is cut out the button starts functioning normally, but the malfunction recurs after 10 minutes. Per the service guy, the compressor and other controlling circuits are in hibernation for 10 minutes before full function is restored. So he literally waited for 10 minutes to verify if the function is normal.

Thanks Poitive. It’s a good idea to adjust cooling levels with the change in the season, often badly implemented as an afterthought (usually when visible symptoms start occurring)

[Ramsagar]

My 11yrs old LG 350lts Refrigerator stopped cooling. Switched off for the whole day, and let the water drain out: defrost. Turned it on and was back to normal. Worked for 10days and back to the same problem.

Registered a complaint with LG customer care. The guy drops-in and finds out there is a problem with the circuit board which is not in production anymore.

Work-around : Technician advises to buy a new one or Turn-off the fridge whenever it stops cooling and repeat the same exercise.

It has never gave up : not even once in the last 11yrs. I think it is time to retire and buy a new one. I'm leaning more towards LG.

Please suggest.

[rbp]

Originally Posted by rbp

I am looking at replacing my 13 year old LG washing machine, I am looking at a front loading, atleast 10 kilos capacity machine. I was thinking of LG again, any other good reliable brands ?

I finally brought an 11kg LG direct drive washing machine, brought it at a LG shoppe for 38k, this included 2k exchange offer for my old machine, plus cash backs etc.

The machine is sooper silent except when it goes into a high speed spin cycle, it gets a little noisy, all four legs are properly balanced yet it makes sound, i am not bothered as the machine is placed on the ground floor. Over all happy with my buy.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by Ramsagar

Turned it on and was back to normal. Worked for 10days and back to the same problem.

Registered a complaint with LG customer care. The guy drops-in and finds out there is a problem with the circuit board which is not in production anymore.

Work-around : Technician advises to buy a new one or Turn-off the fridge whenever it stops cooling and repeat the same exercise.

You'll get timers that switch off the device for an hour. You can set it to either peak time when voltage is low or to post midnight when the fridge is not opened. Will reduce Frost buildup. You basically plug in the timer and then plug the fridge into it.

[ajayc123]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

You'll get timers that switch off the device for an hour. You can set it to either peak time when voltage is low or to post midnight when the fridge is not opened. Will reduce Frost buildup. You basically plug in the timer and then plug the fridge into it.

Wow, that's a very cool workaround, I use a realme smart plug for my hydroponic air pump application which runs 12 hours everyday (6am-6pm) and it's running fine without any issues for the last one year. Worth a try for Ramsagar.

[adrian]

Newbie on a dishwasher here

Anyone tried using white vinegar as rinse aid ?

https://www.unpackaged.com.au/blog/v...our-dishwasher

Note : Currently using the 3 in 1 tabs. Has rinse aid liquid in hand, but am slightly paranoid, the reason being that I am unaware of the chemical composition of the liquid and the fact that it is used during the last (drying) stage of dish washing. Hence the thought of using white vinegar.

regards adrian

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Some rants and queries as renovation work at my house progress.

Workers and contractor is aghast at the idea of placing the front load washing under the kitchen table top. For them, it is etched in stone that a kitchen counter is at 82 cm from finished flooring. It simply does not occur that counter top had to suit user height. Ergonomics is something to be confined to the internet and YouTube videos. "your money, your house, you'll be the one using, but we will do the with our way, or no way". Way out is to avoid the concrete slab and the modular kitchen contractor and get a stainless steel frame fabricated on which the granite slab will be placed. Want to leave the floor below the counter accessible for vacuum cleaning.

I intend to place the counters for cooking area at 82 cm (will be a cook top stove) and working area including wash basin at 92 cm.

Second, having followed the long exchanges about the kitchen hob / chimney etc, decided to go with exhaust fan. Looking for BLDC fan. And can find only one model from atomberg capable of above 1000 cum per minute suction. Any alternative brands? Or should I go with a non BLDC exhaust for the kitchen?

Third, any brand / model / feature suggestions for the wall switches and sockets? The present anchor brand ones have lasted 35+ years.

[Sran]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Some rants and queries as renovation work at my house progress.

Workers and contractor is aghast at the idea of placing the front load washing under the kitchen table top. For them, it is etched in stone that a kitchen counter is at 82 cm from finished flooring. It simply does not occur that counter top had to suit user height. Ergonomics is something to be confined to the internet and YouTube videos. "your money, your house, you'll be the one using, but we will do the with our way, or no way". Way out is to avoid the concrete slab and the modular kitchen contractor and get a stainless steel frame fabricated on which the granite slab will be placed. Want to leave the floor below the counter accessible for vacuum cleaning.

I intend to place the counters for cooking area at 82 cm (will be a cook top stove) and working area including wash basin at 92 cm.
Second, having followed the long exchanges about the kitchen hob / chimney etc, decided to go with exhaust fan. Looking for BLDC fan. And can find only one model from atomberg capable of above 1000 cum per minute suction. Any alternative brands? Or should I go with a non BLDC exhaust for the kitchen?

Third, any brand / model / feature suggestions for the wall switches and sockets? The present anchor brand ones have lasted 35+ years.

Don't do it. 82 cm or 32.5" is the right height. Unless and until everyone in your house in around 6 feet, the cooking process will be hard on shoulders while mixing or frying anything in Kadhai. Cooker adds another additional one feet to height. Even kneading dough and making roti on that slab will be hard for anyone with average height.

Never seen stainless steel frame being used in lieu of slab. Good modular kitchens use .75" thick granite longitudinally to support the slab. I am pretty sure the tensile strength of stainless steel is lower than iron, maybe try carbon steel. Please make home using safe and reliable methods which are time tested. The cheapest and easiest one is modular ones, where marbles and granite are used. The ever lasting method is to construct a slab with minimum width of 24" and maximum height of 33". Put granite over it and it will last outlast the residents. The best kitchen sink is of 10" depth but the most common found is 8".

With the amount of Oil and vapour it will have to throw out, the tested copper coiled exhaust fans will be better than BLDC. It's cheap and easy to maintain. Burned coil can be be fixed under Rs 300-400, BLDC's will have to be replaced. Brands don't matter, nobody is going to climb up and check it. Get a high RPM one of correct size.

Anchor has lost its durability since Panasonic bought it and actively sabotaged it. Panasonic deliberately ended the most sold colour and design of Anchor switches, the off-white coloured one and introduced a new ivory white, that sub standard switch. Any brand will do, just buy double the switches if you are buying any fancy coloured or designed switches because companies changes the design and colour patterns regularly. If those designs go out of manufacturing, even 2 dead switches will force you to change the whole board.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by Sran

Don't do it. 82 cm or 32.5" is the right height. Unless and until everyone in your house in around 6 feet, the cooking process will be hard on shoulders while mixing or frying anything in Kadhai. Cooker adds another additional one feet to height. Even kneading dough and making roti on that slab will be hard for anyone with average height.

Never seen stainless steel frame being used in lieu of slab. Good modular kitchens use .75" thick granite

Hi. Thanks for the reply. The points on colour selection for switches are noted.

It seems you have misunderstood the post about stainless steel. I am using granite counter top. The options for mounting it are either concrete slab or multi wood / plywood frame. These go all the way to the floor. Im using stainless steel only for the frame. One of the mandates i have is that there should be toe space below the counter. Do an images search for "kitchen counter ergonomics feet" and you ought to get images showing the importance.

Only about 50% of counter length will be closed. (Rest will be open shelves) There will be mount points or clamps to attach ply / multi wood frames onto which the under - counter drawers will be mounted, as usual. We already have some bitter experiences at some 10-15 years old apartments with modular kitchens where things are all eye candy with no utility and sagging granite tops.

Yes, I'll revisit the counter heights. But the members want a two level counter. A lower level along the wall where the stove will be placed, and cooking will happen. . And a higher level in other areas. Including the sink / dish wash.

[Sran]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Hi. Thanks for the reply. The points on colour selection for switches are noted.

It seems you have misunderstood the post about stainless steel. I am using granite counter top. The options for mounting it are either concrete slab or multi wood / plywood frame. These go all the way to the floor. Im using stainless steel only for the frame. One of the mandates i have is that there should be toe space below the counter. Do an images search for "kitchen counter ergonomics feet" and you ought to get images showing the importance.

Only about 50% of counter length will be closed. (Rest will be open shelves) There will be mount points or clamps to attach ply / multi wood frames onto which the under - counter drawers will be mounted, as usual. We already have some bitter experiences at some 10-15 years old apartments with modular kitchens where things are all eye candy with no utility and sagging granite tops.

Yes, I'll revisit the counter heights. But the members want a two level counter. A lower level along the wall where the stove will be placed, and cooking will happen. . And a higher level in other areas. Including the sink / dish wash.

Poor sentencing by me "(Never seen stainless steel frame being used in lieu of slab)". What I meant to say was that I have never seen a SS frame on which a granite counter top has been kept. SS have low tensile strength so a heavy granite top may not be feasible to be kept on that frame.

15-20 years back when modular kitchen took pace the frame were built of plywood and nowadays it is being made of granite. The slab was also then made of plywood which used to sag or break, now marble is used as slab and then a granite or quartz counter top is put above that. Toe space mentioned is I had it in my Delhi flat. It gives a floating look. The raised sink space in a personal choice but I wonder how will the waters on slabs be removed while cleaning daily, plus the height of the person cleaning the vessels. The water will accumulate where the height is raised. The water can not be drained from front as it will dirty the floors and cabinet wood work.

A shitty MSpaint diagram.

[deathwalkr]

Originally Posted by adrian

Newbie on a dishwasher here

Anyone tried using white vinegar as rinse aid ?

https://www.unpackaged.com.au/blog/v...our-dishwasher

Note : Currently using the 3 in 1 tabs. Has rinse aid liquid in hand, but am slightly paranoid, the reason being that I am unaware of the chemical composition of the liquid and the fact that it is used during the last (drying) stage of dish washing. Hence the thought of using white vinegar.

regards adrian

Does not seem like a good idea.

https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/b...cleaner-drier/

Used the tablets for some time but few of the dishes were wet after the cycle. Adding the rinse aid helped in complete drying.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Does not seem like a good idea.

helped in complete drying.

Thanks for the information. Any idea of shops in Trivandrum where dishwasher detergent/salt/rinse aid is available ? I tried some leading margin free shops and Spencer with no result. Finally had to order from Amazon.