[Maverick1977]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

Can someone help me on how to activate the secondary bulb in the fog lamps. Are they cornering lamps or day time running lamps? What is their actual purpose?

Hey Congratulations on your purchase. Those lights are DRL's. They will stay on at all times during the day (of course) and will turn off when you give the turn signal. When you put on the headlights they switch off.
I have enabled them via. VCDS on my car. Can do the same for your car also. I have PMed you the details.

[MileCruncher]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

And its in!

I got home a Laura TSI home last night to keep company of your younger & smaller sibling, GT TSI. The specs are as follows:

• May 2012 manufactured Sep 2012 registered,
• Ambiente Trim, White Colour
• 39700 done
• Single Owner
• Clean service history

The car went for the annual service and the following things were done:

1. Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replace
2. Air, Fuel & AC Pollen filter replace
3. Wheel balancing and alignment
4. Brake cleaning, Brake fluid bleeding and replacement
5. AC Service, gas reclaim and recharge
6. Retorquing of the suspension
7. V Belt replacement
8. Drain holes and cowl cleaned
9. Interior detailing
10. Auto Locking at 15KMPH activated

Their system has found that the battery is bound to fail. Its an Exide and just out of 2Yr Warranty but the pro rata warranty will be there. I also like the thoroughness of the job that the workshop did. The job sheet had the details of the disk pad and rotor thickness along with treaddepth on each of the tyre/wheel. I will get the roof lining fixed this week thanks to the contact provided by @Maverick1977.

The car feels absolutely fresh and ready to race!

P.S: The work was done at Autobahn Skoda, Goregaon
P.P.S: The bill was 29,500!

[MileCruncher]

Another issue!!! This time its the AC.

I have noticed that everytime I switch on the car after 5/6 hour break, the AC is back to fresh air intake mode even if I have switched off on recirculation mode. This changeover doesn't happen dueig shorter switch off intervals like 1-2 Hrs.

Is this normal or do I need to get something checked?

[Mechano]

I have an issue with my MKV Jetta which is basically the same car as the laura TDI.

Check Engine light is on with loss of boost (probably in limp mode).

Scanned it and OBD threw up a p261a Coolant Pump B Control Circuit Open error.
Cleared the fault and took her out for a spin again only to have the problem recur after driving for a bit.

I presume I need a new water pump. Can any one tell me where to source it and approximate cost?

I would prefer OEM but not at showroom prices.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Mechano

I have an issue with my MKV Jetta which is basically the same car as the laura TDI.



Check Engine light is on with loss of boost (probably in limp mode).



Scanned it and OBD threw up a p261a Coolant Pump B Control Circuit Open error.

Cleared the fault and took her out for a spin again only to have the problem recur after driving for a bit.



I presume I need a new water pump. Can any one tell me where to source it and approximate cost?



I would prefer OEM but not at showroom prices.

Not necessarily a new pump, more likely an electrical problem, unless it pertains to the emotor of the pump. As always start checking all relevant electrical connectors and wires first!

https://www.obd-codes.com/p261a

[MileCruncher]

I have intermittent checklight coming and going. Its a Laura TSI.


What could be the reasons?

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

I have intermittent checklight coming and going. Its a Laura TSI.


What could be the reasons?

Could be just about anything.
You will never know for sure until you get it hooked up to a proper OSB scanner
The one thing you might want to check is the state of your battery and terminals. Poor battery, corroded or loose terminals will give wonky problems
Good luck
Jeroen

[MileCruncher]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

I have intermittent checklight coming and going. Its a Laura TSI.


What could be the reasons?

And I have the reasons!!!


Took the car to the workshop today evening for a quick check up and 2 error codes showed up.

1. Auxiliary Coolant Pump Relay Error - The fuse was shot and I was told they will have to check the entire circuit and the pump and may be the pump may need replacing. New fuse has been put. Briskoda says its the pump that cools the Turbo. Obviously first step would be to check and sort out the relay and post that may be the pump.
2. Purge Valve Error - I have been told I will need a new charcoal filter. On clearing the code it went off and hasn't come since. Is this a common failure.

Pointers will be appreciated.


Thanks in advance.

[Maverick1977]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

[*]Purge Valve Error - I have been told I will need a new charcoal filter. On clearing the code it went off and hasn't come since. Is this a common failure.[/list]

I have seen this issue with cars which are either old or have mileage or both. I too faced the very same issue and the worst bit was the CEL came on when I was 200 km away from home. Got the car slowly back home, ran the scan and I too got the EVAP error. Did some research on the cost for a new Carbon charcoal cansiter and was surprised to no end. Skoda original (from SASS) - 16K, OEM - 12K, Amazon India - 5K and finally on Aliexpress - (hold on to your chair) - 2K.
Agreed that the price on AE looks too good to be true but I decided to take the risk and order one. Paid $7 additional for shipping and got it in 18 days flat. The seller on Amazon also seems to be buying from Aliexpress as he mentioned delivery time of 5 - 6 weeks.
I dont know how long the thing from Aliexpress will last, but even if it does for 1 year its full 'Paisa Vasool'. Let me know if you need the link.

[surbhit]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

And I have the reasons!!!


Took the car to the workshop today evening for a quick check up and 2 error codes showed up.

1. Auxiliary Coolant Pump Relay Error - The fuse was shot and I was told they will have to check the entire circuit and the pump and may be the pump may need replacing. New fuse has been put. Briskoda says its the pump that cools the Turbo. Obviously first step would be to check and sort out the relay and post that may be the pump.
2. Purge Valve Error - I have been told I will need a new charcoal filter. On clearing the code it went off and hasn't come since. Is this a common failure.

Pointers will be appreciated.


Thanks in advance.

Can you mention the exact error code which you are getting?



My car regularly throws "P0441 - Incorrect flow" but the MIL doesn't come on. I have noticed this error generally comes when I get the tank filled to the brim, skoda service told that this error doesn't impact the performance of the car.



As per various VAG forums the reason for this error could be any of these 3 things:- loose fuel tank cap, faulty N80(purge valve) and chocked charcoal canister. There are sellers on aliexpress who sell N80 and charcoal canister together, but it would be better to first identify the faulty part.

[MileCruncher]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

1. Auxiliary Coolant Pump Relay Error - The fuse was shot and I was told they will have to check the entire circuit and the pump and may be the pump may need replacing. New fuse has been put. Briskoda says its the pump that cools the Turbo. Obviously first step would be to check and sort out the relay and post that may be the pump.

This one got sorted at SASS courtesy some Rs18xx and 3 Hrs of technician time. Fault was ascertained to 3 wires which were corroded and were shorting. Fault fixed and I can feel the car is flying. I kid you not!
There has been an appreciable increase in the pickup.

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

1. Purge Valve Error - I have been told I will need a new charcoal filter. On clearing the code it went off and hasn't come since. Is this a common failure.

Originally Posted by surbhit

Can you mention the exact error code which you are getting?



My car regularly throws "P0441 - Incorrect flow" but the MIL doesn't come on. I have noticed this error generally comes when I get the tank filled to the brim, skoda service told that this error doesn't impact the performance of the car.



As per various VAG forums the reason for this error could be any of these 3 things:- loose fuel tank cap, faulty N80(purge valve) and chocked charcoal canister. There are sellers on aliexpress who sell N80 and charcoal canister together, but it would be better to first identify the faulty part.

I will have to check the exact code. I told the SASS not to replace it and told the adviser that I procured the part for 25GBP. Both of us smiled since the part at SASS is for 10k .

I have been taking my Skoda(s) to AutoBahn (Sewri / Kurla / Goregaon) and find a no non-sense approach. I may be a rare breed of Skoda customers who is actually happy with the dealer. And my car gets a free wash everytime it visits the workshop.

[nerd1200]

Originally Posted by surbhit

My car regularly throws "P0441 - Incorrect flow"
.
.
I have noticed this error generally comes when I get the tank filled to the brim,

Please don't ever fill up to the brim.

Always stop at the auto cutoff point. The car has a fuel vapor regeneration system. If you fill up to the brim, the system sucks in fuel instead of vapor and chokes the charcoal canister.
If this is a regular practice, overtime the n80 valve goes for a toss as well.

This will not impact your car's performance noticably. However if you run diagnostics, you'll see that your engine is running rich. FE will start going down slowly.

I'd recommend to change only the charcoal canister first and drive for 50+ KMs. If the error comes back, check the logs again and on same error replace the n80 as well.

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

I have seen this issue with cars which are either old or have mileage or both.

Not related to mileage or age of the car. I've seen this in cars with 20-30k on the odo as well. This is only when you overfill the tank consistently.

[surbhit]

Originally Posted by nerd1200

Please don't ever fill up to the brim.


Always stop at the auto cutoff point. The car has a fuel vapor regeneration system. If you fill up to the brim, the system sucks in fuel instead of vapor and chokes the charcoal canister.
If this is a regular practice, overtime the n80 valve goes for a toss as well.

This will not impact your car's performance noticably. However if you run diagnostics, you'll see that your engine is running rich. FE will start going down slowly.

I'd recommend to change only the charcoal canister first and drive for 50+ KMs. If the error comes back, check the logs again and on same error replace the n80 as well.

Not related to mileage or age of the car. I've seen this in cars with 20-30k on the odo as well. This is only when you overfill the tank consistently.

I never fill it beyond the auto cut from the machine, still this error has only started coming recently.

The N80 was already replaced by the initial owner of the car about 2 years back so that leaves only the charcoal canister out from the list of parts to be checked for the error.

[Jeroen]

When you get a OBD error code it is useful to google it.

This is what P0441 means:

https://www.samarins.com/diagnose/p0441.html

So, without further diagnosis I would not recommend just swapping parts. As you will see there are a quite a few possible causes.
You really need a more advanced OBD analyzer to drill down in the respective areas and the various signals. With the correct tool you could probably find the real fault in a matter of minutes, or at least excluse a lot of the possible causes.

Although experience does play a role. Sometimes certain codes could have multiple causes, but in practice for instance 9 out of 10 it is the same component that fails. That could be a very pragmatic approach, but not necessarily fool proof. You might swap a part and still be left with the problem

Note this is a generic P code and the description is generic. For a particular car brand/make there could be some small differences as well.


Good luck

Jeroen

[nerd1200]

Agree with Jeroen's point on doing a complete RCA before replacing anything. Regarding VAG car problems, it's always a good idea to search Ross tech wiki with exact error codes.

For example, this is the exact fault code for evap system issues. There are two fault codes which has to be correlated.

1 Fault Found: 16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys P0441 - 35-10 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent Readiness: 0000 0100

Cross reference that to Ross-tech wiki and you'll get the relevant information.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...5/P0441/001089

However in this case, the charcoal canister's packing loses it's integrity first which in turn results in n80 (purge) valve choking. Hence I suggested replacing the canister first and only then go to the n80. Often times the n80 itself is fine, the particles from the canister choke it's inlet. Opening it up and tapping it might fix it.

Hope this helps.