[self_driven]

Hello members,
I got a couple of GE 100/90W halogen bulbs and a Roots wiring kit from my friend who had ordered two sets by mistake. I tried fixing it on my Eon but found the headlight cap to be completely sealed which means that all wires and couplers were routed/fixed from inside the cap. Thinking that it would be difficult to work on such a setup, I installed it in my Swift which was an easy DIY job requiring no alterations to the stock setup.

Now the problem is that one of the bulbs turned red and eventually black within 5 minutes of usage. Even with one of the bulbs working fine, I wasn't able to see a cutoff in low beam whereas the spread was quite good on high beam. I have decided to replace the bulbs with Philips 100/90W but came across another problem. When I came back from a 10 minute night drive yesterday, the lights won't turn off. Tried fiddling with the stalk but all it would do is switch beams on the blacked-out bulb. Fearing battery drain, I quickly remove on of the fuse connecting the battery to wiring kit relay.

I need some help on this. I am sure I have made the right connnections as the installation procedure was quite simple. While installing, I noticed grease on the OE headlight connectors, probably applied by service centre folks. How can we check if the culprit behind this headlight-not-going-off issue is this grease, wiring kit or the headlight stalk? I have also read about freezed relays, so the possibility of a bad relay also can't be ruled out. But the thing is, how to confirm?

[arjithin]

Originally Posted by self_driven

Hello members,
I got a couple of GE 100/90W halogen bulbs and a Roots wiring kit from my friend who had ordered two sets by mistake. I tried fixing it on my Eon but found the headlight cap to be completely sealed which means that all wires and couplers were routed/fixed from inside the cap. Thinking that it would be difficult to work on such a setup, I installed it in my Swift which was an easy DIY job requiring no alterations to the stock setup.

Now the problem is that one of the bulbs turned red and eventually black within 5 minutes of usage. Even with one of the bulbs working fine, I wasn't able to see a cutoff in low beam whereas the spread was quite good on high beam. I have decided to replace the bulbs with Philips 100/90W but came across another problem. When I came back from a 10 minute night drive yesterday, the lights won't turn off. Tried fiddling with the stalk but all it would do is switch beams on the blacked-out bulb. Fearing battery drain, I quickly remove on of the fuse connecting the battery to wiring kit relay.

I need some help on this. I am sure I have made the right connnections as the installation procedure was quite simple. While installing, I noticed grease on the OE headlight connectors, probably applied by service centre folks. How can we check if the culprit behind this headlight-not-going-off issue is this grease, wiring kit or the headlight stalk? I have also read about freezed relays, so the possibility of a bad relay also can't be ruled out. But the thing is, how to confirm?

First thing I suggest is to remove the wiring harness and revert back to stock and check; that way you can be sure if stock wiring is not compromised (and head light stalk is fine)

If the stock headlight is working fine, then you can be fairly confident that the problem is with the wiring harness/relay.

Now To identify the root cause of the issue (relay or a connector or something else), it might cost you 1-3 more bulbs (while trying out different tests) and possibly a relay (if the culprit is relay); which is close to a new wiring harness' price. If I were in your situation, I will directly get a new wiring harness instead of locating what is wrong with the current wiring harness. That will give piece of mind as well.

Note: Verify that your earthing points are good and you are not using a painted surface to bolt the earth lead.

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by arjithin

First thing I suggest is to remove the wiring harness and revert back to stock and check; that way you can be sure if stock wiring is not compromised (and head light stalk is fine)

Hi, thanks for your advice! As you said, I changed the 100/90W GE bulbs to standard Jagan 60/55W lamps that were originally fitted on the car and plugged the OE connectors to the bulbs. Thankfully, the headlight stalk seems to work fine and I am told that a new one would have set me back by 2-3k bucks.

Got Philips Rally 100/90W bulbs to replace GE ones and the faint cutoff problem is also solved now.

In the name of desi workaround for a stuck relay, the mechanic removed it and threw it on the ground with considerable force. Plugged it back and the damn thing is working fine since then. To be on a safer side, I will be using Jagan 55/60W bulbs for the coming week or so. If the wiring kit doesn't throw any tantrum in this period, I would switch to Philips Rally else will invest in a new Philips wiring kit.

Note: Verify that your earthing points are good and you are not using a painted surface to bolt the earth lead.

I have bolted the ground wires on this part highlighted in red below.


Pic Source: Team-BHP

This is a metal surface but painted in black. Will sanding the contact area a bit help, or bolting to a new location is needed? Frankly, I couldn't find any unpainted metal part in the engine bay.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by self_driven

Now the problem is that one of the bulbs turned red and eventually black within 5 minutes of usage. Even with one of the bulbs working fine, I wasn't able to see a cutoff in low beam whereas the spread was quite good on high beam.

Bulbs turning red and black would either be a problem with the bulb itself, or it could be because you touched the bulb glass with greasy hands. GE bulbs arent really of that great quality so I suspect the former reason.

The reason why you didnt see a cutoff in low beam could be due to incorrect seating of the bulb. Make sure you seat the bulb correctly and before locking it with the metal tab, make sure it isnt moving around or rotating.

Originally Posted by self_driven

When I came back from a 10 minute night drive yesterday, the lights won't turn off. Tried fiddling with the stalk but all it would do is switch beams on the blacked-out bulb. Fearing battery drain, I quickly remove on of the fuse connecting the battery to wiring kit relay.

Some wiring kits come with faulty relays which stick even after turning off. Hence it could have left the bulb switched on even after you switched it off through the stalk.

Originally Posted by self_driven

Got Philips Rally 100/90W bulbs to replace GE ones and the faint cutoff problem is also solved now.

In the name of desi workaround for a stuck relay, the mechanic removed it and threw it on the ground with considerable force. Plugged it back and the damn thing is working fine since then. To be on a safer side, I will be using Jagan 55/60W bulbs for the coming week or so.

.

Just get a new headlight relay from PMP from any auto parts store and replace the relay. That should solve the problem. A sticky relay can always stick again. This problem appeared the first day I upgraded headlights and I immediately replaced the relay. Since then, it has been many years and there hasnt been a problem till date, though I always carry a spare relay in the car.

Else just get a phillips or hella wiring kit and these will be of better quality compared to Roots, Lucas TVS etc. Never touch the bulb glass when installing the bulbs. There is no need to sand the grounding points since it will lead to rusting. The contact surface between the thread on the bolt and the body is enough to transfer the current. Just ensure you tighten the bolt well so that it will have good grip on the grounding lug as well as the thread. That is sufficient enough. Most importantly, ensure that the engine bay isnt this dirty since the dirt can come in the way of proper contact between the grounding lug and the bolt. Instead of the bumper bolt, mounting it on the bolt on the member behind the headlight will be a better idea since it is made of metal and can give additional contact area.

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by audioholic

The reason why you didnt see a cutoff in low beam could be due to incorrect seating of the bulb. Make sure you seat the bulb correctly and before locking it with the metal tab, make sure it isnt moving around or rotating.

Hi, those GE bulbs were seated properly but I guess it was a problem with the specific units I got. Anyway, I've got rid of them now. Philips bulbs look better than stock and GE bulbs, even visually.

Some wiring kits come with faulty relays which stick even after turning off. Hence it could have left the bulb switched on even after you switched it off through the stalk.

Exactly.

Just get a new headlight relay from PMP from any auto parts store and replace the relay.

I tried scouting for a new relay but most auto shops here don't seem to stock them. Hella was readily available but I was quoted exorbitant prices for it (a couple of hundreds less than the price of a full kit). I have read good reviews of Bosch relay as well. Which brand are you using? And how much did it cost you at that time?

Instead of the bumper bolt, mounting it on the bolt on the member behind the headlight will be a better idea since it is made of metal and can give additional contact area.

I have bolted the ground wires on metal beams highlighted in bold/wide red area. That pic is from BHPian a4anurag's thread and probably those small red squares on bumper bolts were made by him to illustrate something.

[sahas83]

Hi all,

I have a nexon XM model and my current set-up is :

Philips Xtreme vision x4 bulbs in H7 - Output is 3700 K.
DRL Fog lamps - OEM from Tata for nexon which is Led I believe. Output is pure white.

My issue is there is a colour mismatch between the headlamp and fog lamps. What options do I have to ensure the colour of light output matches here? I dont want to compromise on safety and brightness. Please advise. Photo attached.

[arjithin]

Originally Posted by sahas83

My issue is there is a colour mismatch between the headlamp and fog lamps.

If colour mismatch is the concern, you can get a halogen fog lamp bulb to solve it.

What type is fog lamp bulb?

[chaudh2s]

I recently bought a wiring harness for h1/h7 bulbs. The relay has 6 wires connections. I understand 4 of these are for connection to 30(battery), 85(earth), 86(switch), 87(light). I do not understand what are the two remaining connections for. The 6 connections are named something like L1/L2 S1/S2 T1/T2. Can any learned member here help me explain.

[archat68]

Originally Posted by chaudh2s

I recently bought a wiring harness for h1/h7 bulbs. The relay has 6 wires connections. I understand 4 of these are for connection to 30(battery), 85(earth), 86(switch), 87(light). I do not understand what are the two remaining connections for. The 6 connections are named something like L1/L2 S1/S2 T1/T2. Can any learned member here help me explain.

I think we can not post link to other forum. So, search google for "wiring harness for h1/h7 bulbs". Select the 4th result and read.

[chaudh2s]

Originally Posted by archat68

I think we can not post link to other forum. So, search google for "wiring harness for h1/h7 bulbs". Select the 4th result and read.

That post is related to somebody wanting to sell his h1/h7 wiring harness. ONly 1 post is there, no description.

[archat68]

Originally Posted by chaudh2s

That post is related to somebody wanting to sell his h1/h7 wiring harness. ONly 1 post is there, no description.

The post in the TAI forum, 4 th result in the google search.

[suku_patel_22]

Does upgrading the standard halogens to HID bulbs (in existing OEM projectors) void the warranty?

Should we just remove them before sending car over to service centre?

[arjithin]

Originally Posted by suku_patel_22

Does upgrading the standard halogens to HID bulbs (in existing OEM projectors) void the warranty?

Should we just remove them before sending car over to service centre?

Theoretically yes, it can void warranty. Practically speaking it depends on many factors..like which part you are raising a claim for, your relation with dealership/SA, manufacturer etc etc.

OT: it may not be a good idea to put a HID bulb into a halogen projector; the design of projector is based on where the source of light is exactly positioned; and thats different for a halogen and HID bulb causing much more glare.

[treadmark]

Originally Posted by suku_patel_22

Does upgrading the standard halogens to HID bulbs (in existing OEM projectors) void the warranty?

Originally Posted by arjithin

Theoretically yes, it can void warranty.
OT: it may not be a good idea to put a HID bulb into a halogen projector; the design of projector is based on where the source of light is exactly positioned; and thats different for a halogen and HID bulb causing much more glare.

Instead you could try LED bulbs from reputed manufacturers, LED bulbs emits light source with the same pattern as halogen bulbs and should work good inside halogen projector.

Cheers!

[VinodDevil81]

Originally Posted by treadmark

Instead you could try LED bulbs from reputed manufacturers, LED bulbs emits light source with the same pattern as halogen bulbs and should work good inside halogen projector.

Cheers!

Disagree.
Firstly LED bulbs don't emit light with the same pattern as halogen bulbs.
Both have different emitting characteristics.

However hard those retro-fit LED bulbs try to match the halogen's light pattern, they can't totally re-create a halogen's pattern in a halogen reflector setup.

And secondly, retro-fit LED bulbs working in reflector designed for halogens, are not always a guaranteed success, and often the results are poorer than the stock halogens.
The reflector or the projector, whatever the setup is, needs to be designed specifically for LEDs, keeping in mind the emitting characteristics of LEDs.

Then only it will be any improvement or upgrade.
Otherwise a majority of the LED's emitted light will be scattered as glare by the reflector, without any actual use.

So I would suggest not to go for those retro-fit LEDS in halogen setup, just for the sake of upgrade.