[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by silversteed

2700K is more Yellow, and is better suited for foggy conditions than 4300K which is warm white. The Professor was referring to conditions that necessitate the usage of proper fog lamps, and not just rains where a warm white would do.

And, "colder" is not meant in the literal sense - anything below 3000K is called Warm (white), 3000-4500K (IIRC) is Cool white, and above 4500K as Daylight. Colder than 5200K implies higher colour temperature

Let me add a qualifier. Color temperature is for 'black body radiation', and neither HID nor LED are that. HID uses a phosphor which converts the UV output of the discharge to visible. This will be basically bank spectrum. LEDs would have essentially three light outputs which will blend into what we see.

So it is at best perceived color temperature.

[Trojan]

Found this product from PIAA, seems really good, has anyone bought this? Any feedback on performance.

PIAA RF6 6" Ion Yellow Wide-Spread Fog Beam Kit
http://www.piaa.com/store/p/800-PIAA...Compliant.aspx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6SFwno0bbY

Also found this comparative study of different auxiliary lamps by different manufacturers, not sure if this is already shared, thought it might be helpful for everyone.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/product-r...tival-of-leds/

It also contains a video followed by the analysis.

Cheers,
Trojan

[kutoos]

Dear Friends,

Please help me on my quandry. I've a 2016 Ciaz, and the low beams are pitiful. After reading through this forum, decided to go for a bulb upgrade rather than a relay.

I'm considering to purchase Osram H7 P64210 Night Breaker Unlimited NBU Duo Box (12V, 55W) from Amazon.

My confusion is:
1. Change the low beams to Osram NBU, leave the High beam as stock
2. Change both High & Low beams to Osram NBU

Most of my drives are restrictted to the city with occasional highway trips. Now if i choose to go with option 2, will there be any fire risks associated due to over heating? I'm in favor of this option as I'm planning a trip during october.

Kindly suggest the best option for the above.

Thanks

[halfbytecode]

Originally Posted by kutoos

Dear Friends,

Please help me on my quandry. I've a 2016 Ciaz, and the low beams are pitiful. After reading through this forum, decided to go for a bulb upgrade rather than a relay.

I'm considering to purchase Osram H7 P64210 Night Breaker Unlimited NBU Duo Box (12V, 55W) from Amazon.

My confusion is:
1. Change the low beams to Osram NBU, leave the High beam as stock
2. Change both High & Low beams to Osram NBU

Most of my drives are restrictted to the city with occasional highway trips. Now if i choose to go with option 2, will there be any fire risks associated due to over heating? I'm in favor of this option as I'm planning a trip during october.

Kindly suggest the best option for the above.

Thanks

You should get Osram Night Breaker Laser bulbs, as NBUs are last gen bulbs now. Philips Racing Vision is another latest gen performance bulb. There should not be any fire risk, as they operate on the same voltage as the stock bulbs.

I am using H4 NBUs for the past year, and I am not totally satisfied with the high beam. As someone, a few posts above, said yellow lights from the oncoming traffic tend to drown out the NBUs whiter output.

H7s are different as they have only a single filament. I would suggest get one pair of the bulbs you like, and try them in the high beam position. If you are satisfied then good, otherwise you can use them as low beam bulbs. Low beam output is good anyways.

[kutoos]

Originally Posted by halfbytecode

You should get Osram Night Breaker Laser bulbs, as NBUs are last gen bulbs now. Philips Racing Vision is another latest gen performance bulb. There should not be any fire risk, as they operate on the same voltage as the stock bulbs.

I am using H4 NBUs for the past year, and I am not totally satisfied with the high beam. As someone, a few posts above, said yellow lights from the oncoming traffic tend to drown out the NBUs whiter output.

H7s are different as they have only a single filament. I would suggest get one pair of the bulbs you like, and try them in the high beam position. If you are satisfied then good, otherwise you can use them as low beam bulbs. Low beam output is good anyways.

Thanks halfbytecode for the quick reply. As suggested will go with lasers for the low beam for now.

Cheers

[T-Rex]

Originally Posted by kutoos

Thanks halfbytecode for the quick reply. As suggested will go with lasers for the low beam for now.

Cheers

Hi, instead of Amazon, I'd recommend getting it from Powerbulbs.com, as they supply genuine bulbs and offer free shipping. Amazon, eBay and local accessories shops are flooded with fakes or duplicates that can't be easily be identified. The delivery may take around 2-4 weeks, but worth the wait. Also, usually there is a 20% discount on the site.

[Epic]

Originally Posted by harsh79

The alignment looks slightly better, skewing can be corrected only reopening the headlight assembly and physically realigning the projector.

Do I really need to reopen the headlight and realigning the projector? I was told by the installer that the RHS projector is set fine but the bulb is probably not fitted perfectly. Setting the bulb right will solve the problem. Not sure if this is correct.

Originally Posted by graaja

Your previous alignment where the right side beam is lower and aligned with the lower part of the left beam is the right way to get rid of this dark spot. And that is how OEM projectors are aligned as well.

My realigned beam cutoff pattern is exactly like it is on my Jetta.

[harsh79]

A friend is looking to upgrade to LED bulbs. Are the following any good?

First two are 6500k bulbs,he plans to add a 4300k tint tube to them.

http://s.aliexpress.com/yuMnIRJ7

http://s.aliexpress.com/i2Y7f6vA

http://s.aliexpress.com/YfQVNNni

http://s.aliexpress.com/7zya6zQV

Also is it worth buying such bulbs at all? Or will he get just marginal gains, compared to Philips Xtreme Vision Plus.

[harsh79]

Originally Posted by Epic

Do I really need to reopen the headlight and realigning the projector? I was told by the installer that the RHS projector is set fine but the bulb is probably not fitted perfectly. Setting the bulb right will solve the problem. Not sure if this is correct.



My realigned beam cutoff pattern is exactly like it is on my Jetta.

You could reseat the bulb and check, only one way to find out.

[Epic]

So now here is weird problem that I am facing after installing the aftermarket projectors from Xenon Planet.

When all lights are OFF : When trying to flash the hight beam, lights do not come on at all.

When low beam is ON : When trying to flash the high beam, only RHS high beam works.

When low beam is ON : When stalk is moved to high beam position, the RHS hight beam comes on for a split second and headlights shut OFF. If stalk is moved back to low beam position, the low beams come back on.

Everything was initially working fine. I really need help identifying the above issue as it is driving me nuts. The guys from XP believe it is the relay.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Epic

When low beam is ON : When trying to flash the high beam, only RHS high beam works.

This is a simple case of LHS high beam wiring getting disconnected/component failure.

Originally Posted by Epic

When low beam is ON : When stalk is moved to high beam position, the RHS hight beam comes on for a split second and headlights shut OFF. If stalk is moved back to low beam position, the low beams come back on.

I assume this is on a car with H4 headlights?

The way H4 headlights work is by having two separate filaments in a single bulb for low and high beams. Which also means either low or high beam is on; never both on at any point of time.

Unfortunately it does not work that way for projector setups. Whenever you put the car on high beam, it only moves a solenoid inside the projector and nothing else. It also means the solenoid has to move AND the bulb should be on. Most relay setups wire the bulb to low beam and solenoids to high beam and have a mechanism in place to force low beam to be on when you switch over to high beam. When this mechanism fails, the bulb will turn off (low beam turns off) when high beam is turned on and thus you see the high beam for only for a split second.

In short, the quality of wiring kit or lack thereof is to be blamed.

Originally Posted by Epic

When all lights are OFF : When trying to flash the hight beam, lights do not come on at all.

This is again as per what I have explained above. Since the bulb does not turn on when the low beam is explicitly off (flashing mode) only the solenoid for high beam moves and you will not see any lights.

How do I know? I hacked a Philips H4 100/90 wiring harness to power six projectors on my car. All it took was a 4 rupee component to force the bulb to be on during high beam, that too reliably.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Epic

So now here is weird problem that I am facing after installing the aftermarket projectors from Xenon Planet.

When all lights are OFF : When trying to flash the hight beam, lights do not come on at all.

When low beam is ON : When trying to flash the high beam, only RHS high beam works.

When low beam is ON : When stalk is moved to high beam position, the RHS hight beam comes on for a split second and headlights shut OFF. If stalk is moved back to low beam position, the low beams come back on.

Everything was initially working fine. I really need help identifying the above issue as it is driving me nuts. The guys from XP believe it is the relay.

Sunnyboi's explanation is spot on. In H4 setup, only either of the filaments come on. In the BiXenons, high beam is just a shutter lifting off exposing the full light beam. So, even when high beam is turned on, low beam should still be on to power the HID ballasts. A proper H4 wiring kit should have a diode that will power the relay when high beam signal goes high. This will ensure the ballasts are powered and light up the bulb.

As you say everything was working fine initially, this should mostly be some loose contact or component failure in the wiring kit. Talk to XenonPlanet and get the wiring replaced.

For the 2nd problem where you try to flash with low beam on and only RHS high beam gets activated, this could be a shutter failure in the LHS projector.

[headers]

I have a projector setup in my 2014 Verna SX (o)

Find the headlights inadequate for speeds over 100 at night.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

[Epic]

Thank you SunnyBoi and Graaja for the detailed replies but I am a bit confused. I have understood the working of an H4 bulb when in a halogen set up vs when in a projector set up. Since I have mentioned the symptoms and you guys have replied accordingly; what I do not understand is whether the issue is with the wiring kit or solenoid of the projector?

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

This is a simple case of LHS high beam wiring getting disconnected/component failure.

When you say component failure; is this component (relay) of the wiring kit or component (solenoid) of the projector?

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

I assume this is on a car with H4 headlights?

Yes the car has H4 headlights.

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Most relay setups wire the bulb to low beam and solenoids to high beam and have a mechanism in place to force low beam to be on when you switch over to high beam. When this mechanism fails, the bulb will turn off (low beam turns off) when high beam is turned on and thus you see the high beam for only for a split second.

In short, the quality of wiring kit or lack thereof is to be blamed.

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

This is again as per what I have explained above. Since the bulb does not turn on when the low beam is explicitly off (flashing mode) only the solenoid for high beam moves and you will not see any lights.

Based on your above reply, a defective relay / wiring kit is the cause of Symptom No 1 & 3? Please correct me if I am wrong.

Originally Posted by graaja

As you say everything was working fine initially, this should mostly be some loose contact or component failure in the wiring kit. Talk to XenonPlanet and get the wiring replaced.

I have already brought up the issue to XenonPlanet and they have asked me to visit again so that it can be sorted out. They usually attend to installs & issues on Monday as the installer is free on that day. For me, it means taking an entire day off from work on the first day of the week which is not possible to do again. I have instead bought a new set of wiring from Morimoto which will replace the wiring from XP.

Originally Posted by graaja

For the 2nd problem where you try to flash with low beam on and only RHS high beam gets activated, this could be a shutter failure in the LHS projector.

If this is a shutter failure on the LHS projector then its going to be a disaster as this would mean opening up the headlight again and a confirmation that XP products are not reliable. And I say this because post install the wiring kit has already been changd once and so has the RHS projector for a shutter failure. All this with in 1.5 months post install!!!

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Epic

When you say component failure; is this component (relay) of the wiring kit or component (solenoid) of the projector?

This is regarding symptom 2 where high beam is coming on for only one projector - It can be as simple as wire connection for the high beam solenoid coming off/problem in wiring harness or worse case scenario that the solenoid inside the projector gone bad which will require replacement of the projector. We cannot say for sure which one.

By component failure I meant failure of solenoid inside the projector.

Originally Posted by Epic

Based on your above reply, a defective relay / wiring kit is the cause of Symptom No 1 & 3? Please correct me if I am wrong.

Correct. Its purely due to a defective wiring kit.