[FURY_44]

Originally Posted by akhil_007

Full contract OR labour contract? I'm assuming you prefer labour contract.

Since you say it's for rental purpose, the cost might be around 1.8L/square. So 700 sqft would cost around 13L excluding compound, parapet walls, external staircase. Add 20-30% for these extra stuffs.

Thank you so much for your reply akhil_007, I couldn't reply since we have started the construction and was held up in it.

Yes you are right it's only labour contract, the mestri whom we have given the work is charging us a rate of 30,000/100sqft which I believe is quite high, a quick enquiry with a few neighbors and the average price is around 25k - 27k, is this the right price?

Here's a breakdown of material costs I have purchased so far.

Cement: Birla Super Rs. 390 - 400
Steel: Indus TMT 550 Rs. 61 per kg
Jelly (All Sizes): Rs. 6500 (TATA 709) or Rs. 850 per ton (Min order 6 wheeler)
MSand: Air Wash Rs. 750 per ton, Double wash Msand Rs. 1000 per ton (I am getting this from Hosur, since it's black sand compared to rangoli sand available here in Bangalore). Does this make any sense?

Would appreciate your inputs here.

[Sheel]

All earlier points duly noted. Thanks !

Originally Posted by Aroy

3. Heat proofing can be done in two ways.

a) Use heat reflecting film on the glass.
b) Use two windows - double glazing. You will have two panes or three if you want mosquito netting.

Another thing that you can do is to insulate the terrace. That can be done by adding a 10cm layer of insulating material to the concrete and then laying the tiles. Do ensure that the concrete used has water proofing compunds, and further use extra waterproofing layers on the terrace.

Would request you to please have a look at the floor plan and suggest what can be done for the living & dining room area. I am also attaching my 2nd floor plan.

I wish to know if humidity can be kept out and if AC's need to be installed, what needs to be done WRT the hall & living area. Your inputs would be very helpful .

Also, any inputs on electrical equipment and fittings ( wiring / cables / switches)?

[Mortis]

Our building is getting painted. The last time it was painted we had paid extra for a clear undercoat to be applied around the problem areas where we face leakage. We would like to do the same again but none of us can remember which product was used.
The paint is anyways the elastic crack bridging type but we want some additional protection as we face the full brunt of the monsoons.
Any suggestions for a waterproof undercoat or even a top coat ?

[condor]

Originally Posted by Sheel

I wish to know if humidity can be kept out and if AC's need to be installed, what needs to be done WRT the hall & living area. Your inputs would be very helpful .

Sheel, not every one likes using an a/c. So do check before installation.

Heat reflecting glass will definitely be more cost effective: and also is a one-time expense compared to an a/c: purchase+ monthly bill.

If the 2nd floor is the top one, then do check if the heat-reflective paints will be useful if applied to the terrace. (check Amazon).

[Sebring]

We had the same issue 6 years back and 3M had this product, rolled like a sausage. This filled all the gaps, and is elastic. Now, recently we used this other company (pic below), and the product expands well to fill up. Over this we put an undercoat called Nanosil. (I'm not getting the full name on this packing, though, since the painter has obliterated it. Just show this pic and the shopkeeper will recognize it. Or you can even ask for the 3M one). Hope this helps

Originally Posted by Mortis

The paint is anyways the elastic crack bridging type but we want some additional protection as we face the full brunt of the monsoons. Any suggestions for a waterproof undercoat or even a top coat ?

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by condor

If the 2nd floor is the top one, then do check if the heat-reflective paints will be useful if applied to the terrace. (check Amazon).

Johnson Endura solar reflective tiles on terrace are another durable and cost effective solution. In my calculations they should work cheaper than paint in long run as they work both as screeding and reflective surface whereas for painting you will still need to spend on some sort of cement mortar screeding for leveling above roof slab.

I saw these while buying Endura Hexagonal tiles for one area.

They are matt white in colour and claim upto 90% solar heat reflection and and up to 10 degree reduction in temperature under the roof these kind of tiles are available from many manufacturers but johnson is pretty old and standard company with good quality.

[condor]

Originally Posted by amitk26

They are matt white in colour and claim upto 90% solar heat reflection and and up to 10 degree reduction in temperature under the roof...

Sounds good .. And would be a longer solution I feel but possibly a little more expensive than paint. Paint may need periodic application

Another point:

pls place the solar water heater away from living / bedroom areas. I have noticed the rooms below these being warmer than other rooms in the house. Or keep it at a height on the terrace (sufficient space below the unit)

[reignofchaos]

Originally Posted by Sheel

Guys, building a new house.

Thinking about adding a lift which should accommodate a wheelchair and an assistant. What brands are recommended? It would be a 2 storey house only (ground and first) with terrace on the 2nd floor and a room. Of course, don’t want to spend much but it would be a one time fitment. So, please suggest accordingly.

Second query is about AC for the living area. I can not install centralised AC. I am clueless about VRF & VRV units. Can a stand / tower AC help? I will stick with individual AC’s for rooms. There are total 5 bedrooms and one drawing room. Occupancy on at least 350 days would be only for 2 rooms.

How much of a difference is between the cost of weather proof and normal glass? Any information here would be of help.

Any other advice? Have attached the basic information.

What is your budget for an elevator? Have you dug a pit for the elevator? It needs roughly a 6ft pit. If you can't dig a pit, traction based elevators from usual companies are out. Else a typical traction elevator with 408KG capacity will run you around 9.5L excluding civil works.

If you do not have the ability to dig a pit and build a shaft, prices increase dramatically. If you have around 25L to spare, check out Cibes or Aritco for screw driven lifts. They are both fully imported from Sweden.

If your budget is lower, look for a locally assembled hydraulic elevator. These are typically built in India but with imported components. Buying one from a well established lift company isn't a bad idea either. These will cost you around 10-12 lacs including the chute.

[amitk26]

Can someone throw some light on MCB, RCCB and Surge protector devices to be installed for a single phase domastic connection ?

Is one RCCB (30 mA) near meter for whole line and MCB for each room /major supply point is enough or should I put a separate RCCB for each room ?

For domastic 5KW single phase connection what is the value of main MCB suggested. I think it should be 63Amp ( MCBs are available in 100Amp and 63Amp generally)

How many SPD devices and for what value should be used. Is one SPD after meter in main line good enough for whole house ?

I have gone for chemical earthing ( 6 feet copper pipe + 25KG earthing powder) I guess this should be good for domastic connection.

[condor]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Can someone throw some light on MCB, RCCB and Surge protector devices to be installed for a single phase domastic connection ?.

While I will let others comment on the main points of your query, wanted to add that I am using smartplugs for our microwave and washing machine. This linky is 6a, and is just for reference. Do check these in addition to MCB /and the like.

[Mortis]

Originally Posted by Sebring

We had the same issue 6 years back and 3M had this product, rolled like a sausage. This filled all the gaps, and is elastic. Now, recently we used this other company (pic below), and the product expands well to fill up. Over this we put an undercoat called Nanosil. (I'm not getting the full name on this packing, though, since the painter has obliterated it. Just show this pic and the shopkeeper will recognize it. Or you can even ask for the 3M one). Hope this helps

Thanks for that. Actually the crack filling bits will be taken care of using similar products to what you have recommended. I'm actually looking for a paint-like material we had used last time for an additional layer of protection either under or over the paint primer. We had done that the last time the building was painted at our own cost and it made a difference so we want to do it again this time.

[Sheel]

Originally Posted by reignofchaos

What is your budget for an elevator? Have you dug a pit for the elevator? It needs roughly a 6ft pit. If you can't dig a pit, traction based elevators from usual companies are out. Else a typical traction elevator with 408KG capacity will run you around 9.5L excluding civil works.

If your budget is lower, look for a locally assembled hydraulic elevator. These are typically built in India but with imported components. Buying one from a well established lift company isn't a bad idea either. These will cost you around 10-12 lacs including the chute.

Budget = use.

Usage is not much, maybe 3 to 4 times a week at max. Mostly if parents wish to go to the terrace from the ground floor. Mom is operated for knee replacements so she has no issues to climb stairs, plus, its part of her physio exercise [along with cycling]. Dad has got his hip replaced too, but mobility as such is not an issue.

I am installing it as a part of unforeseen circumstances. Who knows, I am riding, had a small spill and now can't go to my bedroom.

My friend is getting installed one in his home and the cost is at ~6L. I am waiting to see its working & its service. It is from a company based in Patna. Will have to speak with them to know better.

As of now, foundation work is going on, so have at least 6 months to think of these.

Civil work is already being carried out for the lift.

[atnyia]

I have got a small 2 BHK here in Bangalore. I could be staying in that for 3-5 years and then possibly rent out the place.

For the interiors, I am tilting towards Godrej Interio steel kitchens and wardrobes. While they don't look/feel as good as the wooden ones, the look is still understated in a nice way. It looks super functional and reliable for the long term as I'll be renting out the house after a few years.

The prices are lesser than wooden ones. The feedback in general is good. To me, it looks like a no-brainer. However, if it's so good, why most people on a budget don't go with them and instead go for wooden ones?

[deep_bang]

Originally Posted by atnyia

I have got a small 2 BHK here in Bangalore. I could be staying in that for 3-5 years and then possibly rent out the place.

For the interiors, I am tilting towards Godrej Interio steel kitchens and wardrobes. While they don't look/feel as good as the wooden ones, the look is still understated in a nice way. It looks super functional and reliable for the long term as I'll be renting out the house after a few years.

The prices are lesser than wooden ones. The feedback in general is good. To me, it looks like a no-brainer. However, if it's so good, why most people on a budget don't go with them and instead go for wooden ones?

When we got our house kitchen done about 10 years ago I also looked at Godrej. My wife and I were really impressed but just went for the conventional ones done by a carpenter - I dont recall the exact reason but it was just unconventional. Looking back, I wish to have got the godrej one. Its way more maintainence friendly and looks good too.

[Oxy]

Any recommendations for a reliable contractor in Bangalore for home renovation would really help. I am specifically looking to get a modular kitchen made, along with kids bedroom, some false ceiling in the living room, tiling, wardrobes and possibly wooden flooring and bathroom renovation.