[Prowler]

Originally Posted by darklord

I had to remove the immobilizer fuse (20A) for some reason and the fuse lead was too hot to touch. Is this normal or should I get the wiring checked for grounding?

That shouldn't happen at all. If it is too hot to touch, obviously there is a leak to the ground. The leaking current is not sufficient enough to blow the 20 A fuse. But investigate the leak before it causes any damage.

Originally Posted by smsrini

Try Osram Nightbreakers. I found them better than the Philips in terms of light temperature therefore visibility. I used the stock wattage though.

I agree. I am using Osram NB for at least 10 years in all our cars. They are all stock wattage too. If this is not enough look for a LED LightBar 120 W. You will have to turn them off inside the city. It will be blinding.

[Prowler]

I have a problem with my Safari in the last 6 months. Whenever it goes on a rough patch of the road, the steering starts vibrating horribly with a 'tuck tuck' sound. The whole car vibrates until I slow down. But on normal roads, it sails smoothly without any issue. I have done a long distance in this condition. In high ways if I feed the butter smooth roads, there is no issue. In city, it is almost a nightmare - a lump in your throat' condition. A couple of years back they changed my steering wheel as it was stuck. The wheels are balanced and normally it stops in a straight line. There is no wobble at any time.
What could be the issue ?

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by Prowler

I have a problem with my Safari in the last 6 months. Whenever it goes on a rough patch of the road, the steering starts vibrating horribly with a 'tuck tuck' sound. The whole car vibrates until I slow down. But on normal roads, it sails smoothly without any issue. I have done a long distance in this condition. In high ways if I feed the butter smooth roads, there is no issue. In city, it is almost a nightmare - a lump in your throat' condition. A couple of years back they changed my steering wheel as it was stuck. The wheels are balanced and normally it stops in a straight line. There is no wobble at any time.
What could be the issue ?

Could be worn out suspension bushes or ball-joints.
Mine had a lot of play in the idler arm. Changed the bushes and greased it up. Now, all is good.
There is a screw and a 18 size nut on the steering box, using which you can adjust the worm and roller backlash.

[MOHAN_99]

I have a 2012 2.2L Dicor Lx. Except for minor issues all systems are go.
Today the fuel guage went dead. No reading, when it should be showing around half tank. The warning lamp was also off. There is quite a bit of diesel in the tank.
I would be obliged for any useful tips to resolve this issue.
I do quite a bit of electrical/electronics maintenance myself, so would like to give it a go before visiting a service station during the present times. Thanks.

[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by MOHAN_99

Today the fuel guage went dead. No reading, when it should be showing around half tank. The warning lamp was also off. There is quite a bit of diesel in the tank.
I would be obliged for any useful tips to resolve this issue.

Maybe you have already checked, but if not, please do search the following thread and see if you find any clues to solve your problem.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...thread-11.html (The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread)

[MOHAN_99]

I checked the fuel level sensor on the diesel tank and found that the signal wire had broken from the connecting lug and was floating free.

Most fuel gauges in use are the float and variable wire-wound resistor type and the slider is connected to the central (signal terminal) the other terminal being negative or chassis ground.

I crimped a new terminal lug onto the broken wire and reconnected after removing the old lug. Now all that remains is to cover the wire with a piece of spiral sleeve and anchor them with a cable tie to the diesel feeder pipe port located next to the sensor so as to provide strain relief.

The fuel gauge now shows close to a full tank after restoring the connection. Some pictures are attached.

[robbie_KL]

Hi, I am facing a peculiar issue with my 2012 Dicor. The car underwent service last month at my trusted FNG and along with the regular work, the EGR, turbo, intercooler and all related piping was cleaned. Post service she was running as good as new and had clocked almost 500km without any issue.

Last week, while driving, the engine suddenly died while making a turn after I had slowed down from 80Km/h. I was just getting back on the gas in 2nd when this happened without any warning or check engine light. The engine was cranking but it would simply would not start. I checked all the fuses and wiring and nothing seemed amiss. Somehow pushed her to the side of the road and called my mechanic. The following points were checked:

1. Scanner showed two error codes - P0273 (boost pressure low) and P0500 (speed sensor error). As per him the, the former could be an old code from when the intercooler was disassembled for cleaning. The speed sensor error is weird because the speedometer was working fine till a few seconds before the break down. Also, as I understand, speed sensor error should not cause an engine to stall and not start up.

2. Wiring, battery etc checked. Crank position sensor (replaced with a new one), TMAP, MAF and camshaft sensor was cleaned and put back. No luck.

3. The diesel is reaching the injectors but not moving through the injectors into the engine.

3. Next he plugged in a spare ECU and then a spare speedometer console. No luck.

The car was moved to the garage on a flat bed and is currently awaiting its turn. Is it a diesel pump issue where it is not generating enough pressure? Appreciate if you guys could provide some inputs.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by robbie_KL

1. Scanner showed two error codes - P0273 (boost pressure low) and P0500 (speed sensor error).

3. Next he plugged in a spare ECU and then a spare speedometer console. No luck.

Appreciate if you guys could provide some inputs.

Since you had ruled out the ECU and associated sensors, it is possible that the fuel pump is playing truant. Safari Dicor has a 'feature' :
If the fuel level is low and you are running the AC, the engine will cut off. You turn off the AC and start the engine and all will be well until you turn on the AC. The engine will die out. So it stands to reason that it is finicky about fuel. May be the tank or fuel lines have dirt or clogged.

[robbie_KL]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Since you had ruled out the ECU and associated sensors, it is possible that the fuel pump is playing truant. Safari Dicor has a 'feature' :
If the fuel level is low and you are running the AC, the engine will cut off. You turn off the AC and start the engine and all will be well until you turn on the AC. The engine will die out. So it stands to reason that it is finicky about fuel. May be the tank or fuel lines have dirt or clogged.

Thanks, the car had a good 30-40 litres of diesel in it when this happened. And the diesel was also recently filled from a pump which I have used before as well. Also, the diesel fuel filter was also replaced in January of this year. There wasnt even a sedimentor check light.

Is it true that the error code interpretations in the Tata dicor engines (1.4 and 2.2) are different from the conventional ones used by other manufacturers? I came across this thread
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...odes-also.html (Diagnostic manual for Tata's 1.4 and 2.2 common-rail diesel engines: EDIT 4x4 codes also)

From the spread sheet, the error codes and their rectification options are below. Could someone help interpret the P0273 code? What sensor are they referring to here? Thanks

[MOHAN_99]

Originally Posted by robbie_KL

From the spread sheet, the error codes and their rectification options are below. Could someone help interpret the P0273 code? What sensor are they referring to here? Thanks

Since you claim to have ruled out electrical/electronic issues, this could be a problem with insufficient common rail pressure. Check all fuel lines for any blockages.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by Prowler

I have a problem with my Safari in the last 6 months. Whenever it goes on a rough patch of the road, the steering starts vibrating horribly with a 'tuck tuck' sound. The whole car vibrates until I slow down. But on normal roads, it sails smoothly without any issue.

The issue was finally sorted out. The front suspension was over hauled for 25k. Last week I went for the routine annual service to Lakshmi Motors in ECR.
The car is normal now. But someone flicked my German heavy duty charger which I had left behind in the car.

I know the drill to strip the car clean everytime it visits the workshop. But I keep forgetting one thing or another. Two years ago, I lost a compact tool kit same way.

[robbie_KL]

Originally Posted by robbie_KL

Hi, I am facing a peculiar issue with my 2012 Dicor. The car underwent service last month at my trusted FNG and along with the regular work, the EGR, turbo, intercooler and all related piping was cleaned. Post service she was running as good as new and had clocked almost 500km without any issue.

Last week, while driving, the engine suddenly died while making a turn after I had slowed down from 80Km/h. I was just getting back on the gas in 2nd when this happened without any warning or check engine light. The engine was cranking but it would simply would not start. I checked all the fuses and wiring and nothing seemed amiss. Somehow pushed her to the side of the road and called my mechanic. The following points were checked:

Just an update on my above post. With no luck finding any faults in the electrical or fuel systems of the car, and with the workshop area coming under containment zone, no work was done on my car for the past month or so. With work engagements and personal travel also taking up my time, I asked the workshop to work on other vehicles and keep mine on hold for sometime.

Fast forward to last week, work resumed and the issue was finally diagnosed as a timing belt slippage which disrupted the engine timing and also damaged some of the valves / rockers. The intriguing part here is that the belt was replaced around 2 years back and had not broken but slipped. My car is a late 2012 manufactured model and should not have the timing belt issue that was there in pre 2012 Dicors. I would like to hear from you guys on the below points that are now bugging me:

1. Why would a less than 2 year old, genuine timing belt slip and not break. It had some signs of wear on one side of the belt (which I suspect to be a misalignment issue) but not enough to affect the grooves and cause slippage.

2. Should I doubt the competency of the workshop if they could not figure this out earlier and instead focused on the fuel / electrical system? I have been going here ever since I moved to Kerala 2 years back and so far they have done good work on my cars. Just to add, the timing belt was not replaced by them 2 years back, but was done in Delhi just before I drove the car down to Kerala.

3. What can be done to ensure that this does not happen again? Frankly this incident has made me question the reliability of ageing Safari's in spite of being religiously maintained. As of now I don't have any plans to sell the Safari but based on the inputs received, I might have to reconsider.

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by robbie_KL

Fast forward to last week, work resumed and the issue was finally diagnosed as a timing belt slippage which disrupted the engine timing and also damaged some of the valves / rockers. The intriguing part here is that the belt was replaced around 2 years back and had not broken but slipped. My car is a late 2012 manufactured model and should not have the timing belt issue that was there in pre 2012 Dicors. I would like to hear from you guys on the below points that are now bugging me:

1. Why would a less than 2 year old, genuine timing belt slip and not break. It had some signs of wear on one side of the belt (which I suspect to be a misalignment issue) but not enough to affect the grooves and cause slippage.

I am surprised to hear that the timing belt slipped! It can break but not slip. If you have observed that the belt teeth were intact, then I see two possibilities:

1. The belt did not slip but the pulley slipped on crankshaft or camshaft through a small angle because of crushed key.

2. The belt tooth skipped the pulley teeth because of loose belt jumping over the pulley. This can happen if the tensioner moves from it's position.

3. The pulley teeth were worn off.

You can ask the service station if any of these have happened.

Views from experts are welcome.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by robbie_KL

1. Why would a less than 2 year old, genuine timing belt slip and not break. It had some signs of wear on one side of the belt

2. Should I doubt the competency of the workshop ?

3. What can be done to ensure that this does not happen again?

Replacement of the timing belt is not exactly a rocket science but many mechanics do not do it the right way. Other things being equal, a specialist workshop/Authorized workshops might do a better job here. Usually they change the pulley, bracket, water pump along with the belt every time. That way you can be sure that there won't be any issue for the next 5 years.

Safari DiCor Engine is a proven workhorse and I have seen safaris running past 300,000 km without any engine work.

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by robbie_KL

1. Why would a less than 2 year old, genuine timing belt slip and not break. It had some signs of wear on one side of the belt (which I suspect to be a misalignment issue) but not enough to affect the grooves and cause slippage.

2. Should I doubt the competency of the workshop if they could not figure this out earlier and instead focused on the fuel / electrical system? I have been going here ever since I moved to Kerala 2 years back and so far they have done good work on my cars. Just to add, the timing belt was not replaced by them 2 years back, but was done in Delhi just before I drove the car down to Kerala.

3. What can be done to ensure that this does not happen again? Frankly this incident has made me question the reliability of ageing Safari's in spite of being religiously maintained. As of now I don't have any plans to sell the Safari but based on the inputs received, I might have to reconsider.

Did you ever push start it? Cars equipped with timing belt should never be push started. Due to the sudden impact when you release the clutch when you push start, things (timing side) will slip/bend/break and the ignition timing will be altered. To an extent, these things happen when you try to push start cars equipped with timing chain as well. The only difference is that since its a timing chain, parts tend to move around rather than break. Either ways, its not good.