[swissknife]

Originally Posted by blackasta

Get the paint code (should be mentioned on a stamped sheet / sticker on your car itself) & get a can of paint for that code (com paint is a brand which i have used).
Spray a little paint in a plastic cup, and use a cotton swab to slowly patch the area. Long scratches are better done with a toothpick. Apply multiple coats after gaps of 24 hrs. Then finally sand down to the level of adjacent paint, and then polish.

Thanks much. I located the label in the spare wheel well. It says B4B4 NP. When I looked up, it seems to be "Candy white". Will look up on where I could find it. For the areas that need painting (based on the photographs), would you know the quantity that I may require?


In the process, I found the Qxx code that I was looking for to identify my oil change interval on that very same label.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by swissknife

Thanks much. I located the label in the spare wheel well. It says B4B4 NP. When I looked up, it seems to be "Candy white". Will look up on where I could find it. For the areas that need painting (based on the photographs), would you know the quantity that I may require?


In the process, I found the Qxx code that I was looking for to identify my oil change interval on that very same label.

Your's is a candy white polo if I am not mistaken - you can try the below link:

http://www.com-paint.com/products/sc...-for-cars.html

Choose VW->Polo->Candy White

The Kit ahs the following:

Can of Com-Paint Value Pack Kit of Selected Color (120 gm)
Can of Com-Merge, Finishing Solvent Spray (120 gm)
Tube of Com-Cut (50 gm)
Tube of Com-Fill (50 gm)
Com-Paint Rubber Applicator
Com-Paint Emery Pads of 400 and 2500 Grits

[audioholic]

Just to add to what the other members have said, it will be better if the touch up is done with a very small sized paintbrush. You can ask in the shop for 0 or 00 size or so depending upon the availablity and need. If the scratch is deep enough to have created a cavity, then the brush can be used to fill the cavity with paint such that only the scratched area will be painted. If its very shallow then you have to run the brush along the scratch only to cover it up. If the paint goes on the unscratched area then it will look messy.

BTW, these posts should be in the paintleas dent repair thread.

[suzuki san]

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can get an anti-rust coating done inside the engine bay. I have checked with "M.A.S.S" for their FUCOT coating but they say they have stopped doing the same.
Visited 3M but they say they only do the underbody and the wheel arches. Really need to get this done as the car is starting to show some signs of rusting. Car is located in Bombay - Andheri (West).

Additionally, I had done the engine "dressing" about 3 or 4 years ago. This coating or "dressing" is now peeling off in places and looking really bad. 3M say they cannot do anything about it and that putting on another coat will make it look worse.

Your inputs would be much appreciated.

Regards,
SS

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can get an anti-rust coating done inside the engine bay. I have checked with "M.A.S.S" for their FUCOT coating but they say they have stopped doing the same.

Which car is it?? You mean the firewall or the cowl panel??

Additionally, I had done the engine "dressing" about 3 or 4 years ago. This coating or "dressing" is now peeling off in places and looking really bad. 3M say they cannot do anything about it and that putting on another coat will make it look worse.

Unfortunately this engine dressing is nothing but a coat of lacquer which eventually wears out, and starts looking horrible. Having seen it in some cars, I don't think anything can be done to it. You can try steam cleaning to remove it, but be careful with electronics and rubber parts.

This is how it looks when it's newly done


This is how it looks after some years.


Regards,
Shashi

[suzuki san]

Hi Shashi,

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Which car is it?? You mean the firewall or the cowl panel??


Unfortunately this engine dressing is nothing but a coat of lacquer which eventually wears out, and starts looking horrible. Having seen it in some cars, I don't think anything can be done to it. You can try steam cleaning to remove it, but be careful with electronics and rubber parts.

This is how it looks when it's newly done

Regards,
Shashi

It's an SX4. Yes. I wanted to cover the firewall and the shock absorber support areas as well as inside the fenders.

Steam cleaning sounds like a good idea at least on the plastic head cover and the plastic air intake where it is most visible and looking awful.

Regards,
SS

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi Shashi,




It's an SX4. Yes. I wanted to cover the firewall and the shock absorber support areas as well as inside the fenders.

Steam cleaning sounds like a good idea at least on the plastic head cover and the plastic air intake where it is most visible and looking awful.

Regards,
SS

Better remove all the objects like plastic engine cover and air intake from the engine bay before attempting such a cleaning job. It will be much safer.

Also, SX4 has a firewall insulation in place, and thus to cover and treat it fully, you'll probably need to remove the engine. Make sure the rust is treated well before attempting any sort of coating. You can use rust converter/remover if the rusting has already begun.

Request you to post pics if possible, for better understanding.

Regards,
Shashi

[suzuki san]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Better remove all the objects like plastic engine cover and air intake from the engine bay before attempting such a cleaning job. It will be much safer.

Also, SX4 has a firewall insulation in place, and thus to cover and treat it fully, you'll probably need to remove the engine. Make sure the rust is treated well before attempting any sort of coating. You can use rust converter/remover if the rusting has already begun.

Request you to post pics if possible, for better understanding.

Regards,
Shashi

Hi Shashi,

Thanks for the info. Have tried a few other car detailing shops but no one is keen to do this job. I will keep trying.

For the rusting - It's not that bad to even consider removing the engine but thanks for the tip. I will probably go for the rust converter as it is only a few spots which I am sure the converter can handle. Any idea which is a good brand of rust converter to buy? They have some stuff on Amazon but am not sure how good it is.

Regards,
SS

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Unfortunately this engine dressing is nothing but a coat of lacquer which eventually wears out, and starts looking horrible.

This is the sort of thing that it is all too easy to be sold. especially when having stuff done to a new car where we want everything to remain looking new. I think I might have had it done to my new Polo, not sure. Anyway, nothing so bad happened. But I did not keep that car for as many years as I would have liked, due to the flood.

Thanks, I've made a mental note to avoid this sort of treatment in the future. What good is a shiny engine anyway? I only even look at mine when I have to check or fill up something.... And then I usually realise that I have to give it a good dusting while I'm there.

[R2D2]

I've seen the after effects of that awful lacquer coating. Gosh! It's awful, looks like a skin disease!

All I'd advise new or old car owners is stay far away from:

a) "Teflon" coats. They are hoaxes and those mysterious bottles contain nothing but cheap local compounds, polishes and waxes.

I speak from experience and admit to coming close to being conned with my black Honda City 1.5 EXi T-II. I had the car done at home but when the so called teflon effect went away within a few days I refused to pay the man and told him to go away in polite but very stern words. The worst part? It screwed up the already thin clear coat and wore down the paint. My black beauty always remained prone to scratches. For the rest of my ownership years I used to spend hours waxing that paint to give it some semblance of protection.

Remember, teflon as a chemical has to be literally baked on. It cant be applied manually and set to dry in the shade.

b) Engine dressing coats. Leoshashi's photos speak for themselves.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi Shashi,

Thanks for the info. Have tried a few other car detailing shops but no one is keen to do this job. I will keep trying.

Any small detailing centre with steam cleaning should help you out. This steam thing is purely my guess since the lacquer hates heat, and thus steam should work. Nothing else I can think of.

For the rusting - It's not that bad to even consider removing the engine but thanks for the tip.

For the best possible and comprehensive job, you'll need engine removal. Not an absolute must.

I will probably go for the rust converter as it is only a few spots which I am sure the converter can handle. Any idea which is a good brand of rust converter to buy?

I use rust converter only if I wish to prevent metal loss. For surface rust, soaking the area in vinegar works too.

I use TufKote Rust converter, works fine.

For rust proofing, I personally have these things:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

What good is a shiny engine anyway? I

Pragmatically, it's all waste. But there are some OCD mental guys like yours truly, who love the sight of a clean(not shiny) engine bay, despite knowing that it's not going to last for more than a couple of days in traffic.

Originally Posted by R2D2

a) "Teflon" coats.
Remember, teflon as a chemical has to be literally baked on. It cant be applied manually and set to dry in the shade.

So true. I have never seen someone doing a true teflon coat. In majority of the cases, its a cheap wax of unknown origin. A simple 3M wax once a month is much more better.

Gosh! It's awful, looks like a skin disease!

In the year 2007, when I was still a Class 9 student, I remember the SA at Maruti dealership really pushing for this engine lacquer. They were showing a newly done WagonR, and it was looking truly impressive. Dad was strictly against these things, but I also requested him. Luckily a Zen owner standing behind us in queue overheard us, and showed us how it had cracked in his car. And that brought me back to my senses. God bless him, otherwise even my 800s engine bay would be looking like a skin disease today.

Nothing like a natural looking clean engine bay.



Best regards,
Shashi

[suzuki san]

Hi Shashi,

Thanks for the info.
I have ordered a small bottle of the Tufkote Converust 800 from Amazon.

Your pics of the "Before" and "After" engine bay were absolutely spot on. Looks great when freshly applied but like eczema of the engine bay after a couple of years.

Regards,
SS

[jbpanda]

Any suggestions for getting small enamel based black paint drops from the body of my dual tone Red-Black Brezza at Gurgaon? Had thought of 3M Car Care in Golf Course Road. Your suggestions on any particular treatment to be undertaken for retaining the original body colour intact will be helpful. Thanks.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by jbpanda

Any suggestions for getting small enamel based black paint drops from the body of my dual tone Red-Black Brezza at Gurgaon? Had thought of 3M Car Care in Golf Course Road. Your suggestions on any particular treatment to be undertaken for retaining the original body colour intact will be helpful. Thanks.

Any professional detailer should easily do that for you. JFYI, paint doesn't stick easily over glossy clearcoat. I am not sure what method they'll use, but I recently had a similar overspray on my car, and a simple clay bar and washing did the trick. If your car is waxed, that helps too in the easy removal.

Regards,
Shashi

[archat68]

What paint can be used for touching up small nicks on the alloy wheel?