[smack_himanshu]

Originally Posted by newtonMeter

where did you source the ovrms from?

I sourced it from Mukesh Motors in Green Park.

[amidoc]

Hi

Since the last week have started getting some yellow error lights on the dashboard. (picture attached)

Steering shape above the temp indicator.
ABS light.
Car Shape on a slippery road.

Initially when i switched off and restarted the car then the lights went away but now for the last couple of days they still remain.

Is it safe to drive or do i need to take it to the service centre asap
Was planning to take it post Diwali.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by amidoc

Hi

Since the last week have started getting some yellow error lights on the dashboard. (picture attached)

Steering shape above the temp indicator.
ABS light.
Car Shape on a slippery road.

Initially when i switched off and restarted the car then the lights went away but now for the last couple of days they still remain.

Is it safe to drive or do i need to take it to the service centre asap
Was planning to take it post Diwali.

No idea about steering light but ABS and the other on is Electronic Stability Program light. I hope it is just because of dust on the sensors. Please get them cleaned asap and check if the light still remains. I would suggest get it diagnosed at an ASS and rectified at an outside shop (if you know a trusted guy) if the estimate is too much.

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by amidoc

Hi

Since the last week have started getting some yellow error lights on the dashboard. (picture attached)

Steering shape above the temp indicator.
ABS light.
Car Shape on a slippery road.

Initially when i switched off and restarted the car then the lights went away but now for the last couple of days they still remain.

Is it safe to drive or do i need to take it to the service centre asap
Was planning to take it post Diwali.

I think you should take it to service station as soon as possible, but you can check the fuses yourself. The relevant fuses are in the fuse box in the engine bay. If fuses are okay it could be the wiring or the sensors.

[anandpadhye]

Hi guys,

Need advice - I have Feb 2010 Laura TSi. I want to upgrade to bi-xenons if that's possible. The car came with projectors for low beam and reflectors for high beam. Is it possible to install bi-xenons in the low-beam projector housing and will it be effective? Is there any official upgrade available from Skoda/dealers?

Thanks!

[nitinbose]

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

No idea about steering light but ABS and the other on is Electronic Stability Program light. I hope it is just because of dust on the sensors. Please get them cleaned asap and check if the light still remains. I would suggest get it diagnosed at an ASS and rectified at an outside shop (if you know a trusted guy) if the estimate is too much.

If you can get hold of someone who knows how to use VCDS properly, check the readings from the ABS sensors while you move the vehicle back and forth at a slow speed. If all the sensors give a reading and an equal value, the sensors are working fine. The next step should be to remove the tire and brake disk, clean the sensor and hub cap and you should get going.

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

Hi guys,

Need advice - I have Feb 2010 Laura TSi. I want to upgrade to bi-xenons if that's possible. The car came with projectors for low beam and reflectors for high beam. Is it possible to install bi-xenons in the low-beam projector housing and will it be effective? Is there any official upgrade available from Skoda/dealers?

Thanks!

My honest opinion would be to purchase the OEM headlamp units which is the AFS unit though its a costly affair. You can get the so called "CANBUS" compatible xenon kits but cant tell their reliability. There are also error cancellation kits for HID kits but I would not suggest using these. An improperly installed Xenon/HID kits (non OEM) can result in damages to the wiper motor or BCM.

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by nitinbose

My honest opinion would be to purchase the OEM headlamp units which is the AFS unit though its a costly affair. You can get the so called "CANBUS" compatible xenon kits but cant tell their reliability. There are also error cancellation kits for HID kits but I would not suggest using these. An improperly installed Xenon/HID kits (non OEM) can result in damages to the wiper motor or BCM.

Thanks. Will stick with what I have , won't like to open the headlamp assembly.

[Maibaa]

I have a 2011 Laura TSI 1.8 that has run 60k kms to-date.

Recently while driving in the morning rush hour, I noticed the coolant temperature warning light flashing. Upon inspection under the hood I saw the coolant tank was almost empty. The coolant level had gone down below the sensor in the tank and hence the warning light.

I then unscrewed the lid of the coolant tank and along with some pressure release, the coolant level also increased but still below minimum level but the warning light was gone. I topped up the coolant tank with some water and drove to work.

I took the car to Skoda A.S.S (Vinayak, Bangalore) and upon inspection, no leakage was found in and around the radiator area or the pipes. Upon further inspection under the engine after hoisting the car and opening up the engine bay cover below, there seemed to be some signs of dried liquid stains. I could not tell it was the coolant or any other liquid.

The service engineer is telling me that the coolant pump might be leaking and has to be replaced. Cost is 19K + labour + cost of coolant.

I am not very convinced if this is really the problem but since then I have been topping up a little every week with coolant that i purchased from the service center.

There is a slight level down in the coolant tank all the time that I top up once a week but I am unable to see any signs of leak in the engine bay around the radiator or the coolant tank.

I checked Briskoda forums and it seems the coolant pump failure is pretty common.

Any advice from the experts? Any good garages in Bengaluru where I can get this inspected? Should I go ahead with the A.S.S' suggestion?

[avinash_clt]

Originally Posted by Maibaa

I have a 2011 Laura TSI 1.8 that has run 60k kms to-date.

Recently while driving in the morning rush hour, I noticed the coolant temperature warning light flashing. Upon inspection under the hood I saw the coolant tank was almost empty. The coolant level had gone down below the sensor in the tank and hence the warning light.

I then unscrewed the lid of the coolant tank and along with some pressure release, the coolant level also increased but still below minimum level but the warning light was gone. I topped up the coolant tank with some water and drove to work.

I took the car to Skoda A.S.S (Vinayak, Bangalore) and upon inspection, no leakage was found in and around the radiator area or the pipes. Upon further inspection under the engine after hoisting the car and opening up the engine bay cover below, there seemed to be some signs of dried liquid stains. I could not tell it was the coolant or any other liquid.

The service engineer is telling me that the coolant pump might be leaking and has to be replaced. Cost is 19K + labour + cost of coolant.

I am not very convinced if this is really the problem but since then I have been topping up a little every week with coolant that i purchased from the service center.

There is a slight level down in the coolant tank all the time that I top up once a week but I am unable to see any signs of leak in the engine bay around the radiator or the coolant tank.

I checked Briskoda forums and it seems the coolant pump failure is pretty common.

Any advice from the experts? Any good garages in Bengaluru where I can get this inspected? Should I go ahead with the A.S.S' suggestion?

Hello,

Do you have estimates on how much coolant you have to top-up with respect to KMs covered?

If the coolant level is dropping, it indeed is a leak, either internal or external. Chances of internal leaks are unlikely in the 1.8TSI engine. Just to be sure, have a look at the oil level also (whether it has increased than normal), and also the color of the exhaust gas (if any) post the engine reaching its operating temperature.

Since you already mentioned signs of dried liquid stains, I suggest that you clean the area once and see if similar stains reappear (as something like spilled water while trying to refill the wiper fluid reservoir could also be the reason for stains).

You will need to look at the coolant pump only once you are sure about the various coolant lines. 1.8TSI has coolant lines to the turbo also.

Regarding the coolant/water pump itself: The coolant pump is run by the timing belt in 1.6/2.0TDI engines. Thus it is on the timing side (RH side) of the car in them. However, the coolant pump in the 1.8TSI engine is an advanced unit (in construction), compared to ones used in 1.6/2.0TDI engines. In the 1.8TSI, it takes drive from the balancer shaft, via a belt-pulley arrangement and is located on the gearbox side of the engine (LH side). Access to the 1.8TSI's coolant pump is thus more complicated and requires removing significant components in the frontal area. So if you were to look for leaks from the coolant pump, you should be looking at areas around the gearbox side.

[adi_petrolhead]

You have to account for the amount of coolant in the reservoir tank and most of it which is circulating in the radiator and coolant lines around the engine. In such cases DO NOT open the coolant tank lid!! It's at 100 + degrees centigrade, you could get burnt if the pressure is too much. Let the car always cool down, check the temperature in the instrument cluster, and then open. Best time is to open after complete cool down after around 3-4 hours in my case.

As you rightly said coolant can't disappear and either is leaking or is actually alright.

So first of all inspect the colour of your coolant. If it's dark bright pink, you're okay, keep driving and inspect the level in the reservoir before the first morning crank. That will give you the best result in my opinion.

Next, if the colour of coolant has changed to orange-ish brown or rust colour, get it changed immediately and fill up the standard volume.

Leaky pump can also be a culprit, but since it's a common problem they should be able to do it free under goodwill or else charge you only for labour.

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by Maibaa

The service engineer is telling me that the coolant pump might be leaking and has to be replaced. Cost is 19K + labour + cost of coolant.

I am not very convinced if this is really the problem but since then I have been topping up a little every week with coolant that i purchased from the service center.

Any advice from the experts? Any good garages in Bengaluru where I can get this inspected? Should I go ahead with the A.S.S' suggestion?

What exactly is your concern about replacing the coolant pump (aka water pump)? The service center pricing or service center integrity? Regarding pricing, I would say the quote is not way off the mark. I had replaced the water pump in my Hyundai Tucson and total bill was 22k. Regarding integrity, please note that in my case also, the leakage was not from radiator. Water pump failure can be gradual, I would say a stitch in time saves nine.

Here are the details:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post3129324

Originally Posted by avinash_clt

Hello,

You will need to look at the coolant pump only once you are sure about the various coolant lines. 1.8TSI has coolant lines to the turbo also.

Regarding the coolant/water pump itself: The coolant pump is run by the timing belt in 1.6/2.0TDI engines. Thus it is on the timing side (RH side) of the car in them. However, the coolant pump in the 1.8TSI engine is an advanced unit (in construction), compared to ones used in 1.6/2.0TDI engines. In the 1.8TSI, it takes drive from the balancer shaft, via a belt-pulley arrangement and is located on the gearbox side of the engine (LH side). Access to the 1.8TSI's coolant pump is thus more complicated and requires removing significant components in the frontal area. So if you were to look for leaks from the coolant pump, you should be looking at areas around the gearbox side.

Interesting. So the water pump is on the gear box side in the Laura version of 1.8 TSi as well as the current generation (Octavia 3)?

Originally Posted by adi_petrolhead

Leaky pump can also be a culprit, but since it's a common problem they should be able to do it free under goodwill or else charge you only for labour.

Ae you suggesting they will replace the water pump out of goodwill on 2011 Laura? If so, it's a good news, Skoda service has in deed come a long way!

[avinash_clt]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

Interesting. So the water pump is on the gear box side in the Laura version of 1.8 TSi as well as the current generation (Octavia 3)?

To be accurate, the position of the water pump can be termed more as in the middle of the car, but it takes drive from the gearbox side of the engine (via the other end of the balancer shaft through a pulley&belt). It sits beneath the intake manifold. Access to replace the pump is easier when the same engine is mounted longitudinally (as in the case Audi A4).

Current Octavia has third generation of the EA888 TSI motors. I am not sure, but from the pictures it seems that the water pump placement / construction / drive are similar to that of the 1.8TSI in Laura.

[Maibaa]

Originally Posted by avinash_clt

Hello,

Do you have estimates on how much coolant you have to top-up with respect to KMs covered?

It doesn't seem to me that the leak has anything to do with the number of KMs covered. I topped up the coolant and covered about 1200 kms in 3 days and noticed that the coolant level was about a centimeter down. Then even with about 50 kms of driving and a week's time I see the coolant level down by a CM.

Hence unable to figure out a pattern.

Originally Posted by avinash_clt

Since you already mentioned signs of dried liquid stains, I suggest that you clean the area once and see if similar stains reappear (as something like spilled water while trying to refill the wiper fluid reservoir could also be the reason for stains).

The signs of drained liquid was under the engine bay cover at the bottom of the car. The car had to be lifted to remove the cover. It is not easy to inspect the area and the stains could be anything from spilled oil during an oil change to the actual coolant leak that dried due to engine heat.

Originally Posted by avinash_clt

You will need to look at the coolant pump only once you are sure about the various coolant lines. 1.8TSI has coolant lines to the turbo also.

As I mentioned, the service advisor and his team could not find any signs of leakage in the coolant lines.

Originally Posted by adi_petrolhead

You have to account for the amount of coolant in the reservoir tank and most of it which is circulating in the radiator and coolant lines around the engine. In such cases DO NOT open the coolant tank lid!! It's at 100 + degrees centigrade, you could get burnt if the pressure is too much. Let the car always cool down, check the temperature in the instrument cluster, and then open. Best time is to open after complete cool down after around 3-4 hours in my case.

Opening the coolant tank was the first time in my case and lack of awareness. From then on I am careful. The temperature gauge stayed midway even though the coolant level warning light came on. Hence I guess there was no increase in operating temperature. The warning light got triggered due to the coolant level falling below the sensor in the coolant tank.

Originally Posted by adi_petrolhead

As you rightly said coolant can't disappear and either is leaking or is actually alright.

So first of all inspect the colour of your coolant. If it's dark bright pink, you're okay, keep driving and inspect the level in the reservoir before the first morning crank. That will give you the best result in my opinion.

Next, if the colour of coolant has changed to orange-ish brown or rust colour, get it changed immediately and fill up the standard volume.

Color of coolant has not changed. It stays bright pink.

Originally Posted by adi_petrolhead

Leaky pump can also be a culprit, but since it's a common problem they should be able to do it free under goodwill or else charge you only for labour.

I wish!

[Maibaa]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

What exactly is your concern about replacing the coolant pump (aka water pump)? The service center pricing or service center integrity? Regarding pricing, I would say the quote is not way off the mark. I had replaced the water pump in my Hyundai Tucson and total bill was 22k. Regarding integrity, please note that in my case also, the leakage was not from radiator. Water pump failure can be gradual, I would say a stitch in time saves nine.

The leak is gradual and no signs of it anywhere in and around the engine bay. Everything is bone dry in the car except for the dried and old stains that were noticed on the underside of the engine bay cover at the bottom. As I mentioned earlier, the stains could be from an old oil change. Hence I was not very convinced when the SA and his team could not find any signs of leakage in and around the coolant tank or radiator and concluded that the water/coolant pump needed to be replaced based on some old dried stains.

I do not doubt the integrity of the service advisor but in most cases it is a case of replacing entire parts rather than fixing or repairing the same at service centers. Plus the cost seems exorbitant with just 19K for the water pump. 3 K for coolant top-up and labor separate (3-5K).

I saw your post on the water pump replacement on your Tucson. Almost half the cost is from the timing belt change. Note that in diesel cars, the timing belt also has to be replaced when changing water pump. This is not the case in petrol cars. So a quote of 25K just for the water pump change is concerning.

[avinash_clt]

Originally Posted by Maibaa

It doesn't seem to me that the leak has anything to do with the number of KMs covered. I topped up the coolant and covered about 1200 kms in 3 days and noticed that the coolant level was about a centimeter down. Then even with about 50 kms of driving and a week's time I see the coolant level down by a CM.

On a positive note, this means the leak is external rather than internal.

The signs of drained liquid was under the engine bay cover at the bottom of the car. The car had to be lifted to remove the cover. It is not easy to inspect the area and the stains could be anything from spilled oil during an oil change to the actual coolant leak that dried due to engine heat.

Stains from oil spills would be different from dripping coolant, with the former accumulating significant amount of muck also around the area. So once again might be worthwhile to clean and recheck the same spot.

Originally Posted by Maibaa

I do not doubt the integrity of the service advisor but in most cases it is a case of replacing entire parts rather than fixing or repairing the same at service centers. Plus the cost seems exorbitant with just 19K for the water pump. 3 K for coolant top-up and labor separate (3-5K).

I saw your post on the water pump replacement on your Tucson. Almost half the cost is from the timing belt change. Note that in diesel cars, the timing belt also has to be replaced when changing water pump. This is not the case in petrol cars. So a quote of 25K just for the water pump change is concerning.

The quoted cost of the water pump is not exorbitant. Like mentioned in my previous post, the water pumps in the 1.8TSI are advanced units compared to the ones in 1.6/2.0TDI engines, located differently and significantly more expensive also. The assembly contains the thermostat unit and the coolant temperature sensor. Also when working properly, they are for the life of the engine (ironically) unlike the units on the diesels where they are replaced with the timing belt. Quote of 19k for the water pump seems to be fair, considering costs here in Europe. The pump with a history of failures, has atleast 3 part revisions post 2011. For reference, the current part number revision for the coolant pump should be either of 06H121026DC or 06H121026CP.

Labour involved in replacing the pump in 1.8TSI will be more than that in the case of 2.0TDIs. Because of the pump's location, replacement requires removal of intake manifold and other bits in front of the car. But 5k as labour definitely seems far stretched. So is 3k for coolant drain and refill. Insist on the ASC to use only standard labour codes.

If anyone is interested, attaching the self-study programme document for the EA888 1.8TSI engine's basic architecture. Good read. Regarding the coolant pump in discussion, from page 30 of the document. EA888 1.8TSI SSP.pdf

Snippet from the above document regarding coolant pump module