[raj_5004]

Originally Posted by spadix

Seems like you're hardly giving the engine enough time to warm up (8 kms per run minimum as the manual says). Even so, 6 kmpl is too less.

Please do a controlled mileage test on an empty road. Nothing fancy. Just reset your trip meter at around 60 kmph in top gear on am empty stretch of flat (no slopes) road that is around 1-2 kms long and see what the fuel efficiency indicator reads at the end of the stretch. With AC off, and since yours is an AT (taller gearing than an MT) the indicator should read more than 22.0 km/l if things are fine. This figure of 22 is from shuvc's similar controlled test on his MT a few months back in Kolkata. Air density and fuel quality issues aside, you should see more than 22 because of the taller gearing.

If not, get parts inspected and cleaned/replaced/adjusted as necessary.

Regards,
spadix

Even my Civic A/T gives me 6.5 kmpl. My running is very harsh. Office is barely 5 mins drive from my place, which means the engine does not warm up. Also, it is a narrow inner lane with heavy traffic which means max speed is 25-30 kmph in 1st and second gear, not more.

I will do the test you suggested. However, once I had taken the car out on the highways (with tripmeter reset) and even with very economical driving (light foot), I saw no more than 12 kmpl on the fuel efficiency meter.

[spadix]

Originally Posted by raj_5004

However, once I had taken the car out on the highways (with tripmeter reset) and even with very economical driving (light foot), I saw no more than 12 kmpl on the fuel efficiency meter.

What was the load immediately after you reset the trip meter? Load could mean number of people and amount of luggage in the car OR any acceleration (however soft) OR driving up an incline. And was the 'box in D mode? If the car is doing a steady 60 kmph, over 1-2 kms you should see the indicator climbing up quite rapidly as it's an average f/e indicator as opposed to an instantaneous f/e indicator.

If it has plateaued out at 12 at light load and a constant speed of 60 kmph in top gear, the car should definitely go in for a thorough f/e check-up.

Also please note that the indicator is optimistic by around 12-15%. For instance, over ~40000 kms my car (an M/T) has returned 11 kmpl as computed by fuelly and also per my own calculations. The indicator shows 12.4, however.

Regards,
spadix

[raj_5004]

Originally Posted by spadix

What was the load immediately after you reset the trip meter? Load could mean number of people and amount of luggage in the car OR any acceleration (however soft) OR driving up an incline. And was the 'box in D mode? If the car is doing a steady 60 kmph, over 1-2 kms you should see the indicator climbing up quite rapidly as it's an average f/e indicator as opposed to an instantaneous f/e indicator.

Very light load - me and one passenger and nothing in boot.

I was not doing a FE check so I was not driving at a constant 60 kmph. I was driving at about 80-90 kmph but with smooth acceleration and gentle throttle inputs in 'D' mode and very light city traffic.

I will do the 60 kmph test, but I personally feel if my car gives 12 kmpl @ 90 kmph, it wont give me 22 kmpl @ 60 kmph. I will surely try it though.

While trying the test, should I try in D mode or S mode with manual paddle shifts?

Also please note that the indicator is optimistic by around 12-15%. For instance, over ~40000 kms my car (an M/T) has returned 11 kmpl as computed by fuelly and also per my own calculations. The indicator shows 12.4, however.

The mileage (6.5 kmpl) is through my mobile app which calculates this based on my fuel fillings (tankfull to tankfull) and odometer readings. Car's MID always shows 7-7.5!

[saurabhkum]

According to my experience Civic Auto gives maximum fuel efficiency when it's in the range of 80-90 KMPH. I've arrived at this conclusion as the Civic Auto doesn't stay below 1500 RPM , anything below and it downshifts. And for maximum FE you need to be in 5th gear which at 1600 RPM is 80 KMPH. My civic on CNG gives me 13-15 KM per KG of CNG in Mumbai traffic and on highways it goes to 18-20 KM per KG. Going by the logic that in CNG FE increases by approx 50%, then the similar petrol mileage should be between 8.8-10 KMPL in city and 12-13.6 on highway. Hope this helps.

[rosh_aveo1.4]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Civic ECU reset:

Get into your car, shut the door etc, and turn the key full on to the point just before it cranks.

Press the accelerator fully to the floor and hold it there for 30 seconds.

After that don't touch the key, or door or anything but sit and wait for 2 minutes.

Then start the car and drive off. You should notice a difference in the way the throttle and transmission behave.

Dear Mukesh,
Thanks for that info. Is there any risk to this ECU reset? I'll try it out anyway but I guess there is no visible indication to see whether it has indeed been reset or not right?
And what's the real advantage of ECU reset? I understand from Sarath that it would adapt to our driving style. Hopefully, that should improve the FE (or not make it worse!)
Anyway, I lost my hopes of going to HASS (be it Cosmic or Peninsular) after hearing from them that this figure is apparently normal and they may not help too much. Too bad I don't know any fellow member with the Civic AT in Cochin, then we could have compared what's really happening. Worst case, may go to the FNG for a complete service and check the filters (air and fuel) to see if there is anything wrong there. Before that, I would attempt the ECU reset part.

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by rosh_aveo1.4

Dear Mukesh,
Thanks for that info. Is there any risk to this ECU reset? I'll try it out anyway but I guess there is no visible indication to see whether it has indeed been reset or not right?
And what's the real advantage of ECU reset? I understand from Sarath that it would adapt to our driving style. Hopefully, that should improve the FE (or not make it worse!)
Anyway, I lost my hopes of going to HASS (be it Cosmic or Peninsular) after hearing from them that this figure is apparently normal and they may not help too much. Too bad I don't know any fellow member with the Civic AT in Cochin, then we could have compared what's really happening. Worst case, may go to the FNG for a complete service and check the filters (air and fuel) to see if there is anything wrong there. Before that, I would attempt the ECU reset part.

Advantage of ECU reset: Nothing drastic, it just erases the previous driving pattern, for eg; if it understands that the throttle will be pushed hard, it adapts by downshifting faster etc. Plus maybe some more of other uses, or negatives

Visible indication: You can immediately feel the difference in the pedals, like braking will be little harder, the car will rapidly downshift/upshift. ok, you can feel that it behaves like a kid trying to learn something new (oops, went a little far towards 'Civic' bitten )
This was my personal observation, if others can share light into these, that will help too

[raj_5004]

Originally Posted by spadix

What was the load immediately after you reset the trip meter? Load could mean number of people and amount of luggage in the car OR any acceleration (however soft) OR driving up an incline. And was the 'box in D mode? If the car is doing a steady 60 kmph, over 1-2 kms you should see the indicator climbing up quite rapidly as it's an average f/e indicator as opposed to an instantaneous f/e indicator.

If it has plateaued out at 12 at light load and a constant speed of 60 kmph in top gear, the car should definitely go in for a thorough f/e check-up.

Regards,
spadix

You were right.

Took my Civic A/T on an empty stretch, accelerated to 60 kmph and set cruise control at that speed and then reset the trip meter. The MID showed the following fuel efficiency figures-

In 'D' mode : 24.8 kmpl
In 'S' mode with manual paddle shift to 5th gear : 27.3 kmpl

[vasoo]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Civic ECU reset:

Get into your car, shut the door etc, and turn the key full on to the point just before it cranks.

Press the accelerator fully to the floor and hold it there for 30 seconds.

After that don't touch the key, or door or anything but sit and wait for 2 minutes.

Then start the car and drive off. You should notice a difference in the way the throttle and transmission behave.

That is not ECU reset procedure. This is for resetting the AT learnings. ECU reset procedure involves removal of battery terminal among other things.

[pamiboy]

Originally Posted by manim

I had a similar whining noise once on the hills and it vanished after the power-steering-fluid was topped up. So check the PS fluid level.

Per your advise I asked my dealer to top up the power steering fluid during my last service. The noise has not returned since then. I hope it's the end for that episode. Thanks for your very useful remark.

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by pamiboy

Per your advise I asked my dealer to top up the power steering fluid during my last service. The noise has not returned since then. I hope it's the end for that episode. Thanks for your very useful remark.

With the engine switched off kindly feel the serpentine belt and see if it's smeared in oil.Also observe the oil level after every drive when you reach home.

If the belt is smeared with oil or the level is low then chances are that the power steering/hose is leaking oil.

[devsoftech]

I parked my car the usual way today at my office and locked using the remote. I was informed by security that the car's buzzer went off. The side indicators were flashing and horn beeping in tandem with the indicators. The car does not have a dedicated hooter like the modern security systems. I locked-unlocked the car and it was resolved. I checked all doors buttons. Locked the car by pressing the button and releasing - hoping to trigger it again. But I could not reproduce the alarm again. So my guess is, this has to nothing to do with central locking. The car was not in use for almost a week, and I do not see any tell tale signs of a rodent menace. Security is not sure if someone bumped into the car. How can I find out/resolve this issue. Any pointers will be welcome. This 2006 model, which did not come with advanced security system in the later models.

[rosh_aveo1.4]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Civic ECU reset:

Get into your car, shut the door etc, and turn the key full on to the point just before it cranks.

Press the accelerator fully to the floor and hold it there for 30 seconds.

After that don't touch the key, or door or anything but sit and wait for 2 minutes.

Then start the car and drive off. You should notice a difference in the way the throttle and transmission behave.

Mukesh,
When you say turn the key full on to the point just before it cranks, is it just after the ACC? Do we hold it like that and do the remaining process (hold the accelerator, etc....)?

[sgiitk]

@devsoftech; Check for a door not closing properly.

[Safeer]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Civic ECU reset:

Thanks for the information regarding ECU reset. I had sold my Civic AT to a friend of mine. Will pass on this information to him, so that he can do the reset and allow the ECU to adapt to his style of driving than mine.

[devsoftech]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

@devsoftech; Check for a door not closing properly.

I simulated the door locking. I pressed the button (as if I closed the door), and used the remote to lock. The cabin light dimmed and doors were armed. Then I released the button (To simulate bad switch / break-in). The alarm did not go off - which means that my car is not designed to send out alarm for break-in . My central locking is silent and I'm surprised with this behaviour today. Anything else I can suspect chief ?