[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by raj_5004

Thank you.

I am planning to upgrade the alloys on the Civic. Considering the rough roads I go through once in a while, I was planning to stick to 15 inchers. But a friend feels that 15" aftermarket alloys would make the Civic look under tyred. He says if I am changing the stock wheels, I should atleast upgrade to 16" ones!

Now, I think 195/55 R16 is a size which is not freely available. Bridgestone offers one, but has a much lower load rating. Hence, if I upsize the wheels, I will have to opt for atleast 205/55 R16. Hence the query.

I have 205 65 r 15 stock rims.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sarathlal

@devsoftech, there is nothing wrong in your car's alarm system, because, Civic's alarm will not go off, if you try to unlock the car manually, and the key is in the car's proximity.

Originally Posted by KSM-Vtec

Are you sure that the civic key has a proximity sensor?

Originally Posted by laluks

The keys we have do not have such features, since Passive Entry is not a feature in our Civics. What the key has is a transponder which gets active in the field produced near the Key hole. And RF signals are there for the lock/unlock requests.

Originally Posted by KSM-Vtec

Hence proximity wont matter in this context right?

Originally Posted by sarathlal

I have tried this earlier, when I bought the car I guess. am unsure on the proximity sensors, but can definitely say that, it can understand whether we are trying to open the car from inside with key in hand or if the attempt is when the key (driver) is not in the car. Even a tiny transponder within the key can help do this I guess.

There is no proximity concepts in Civic which we have. The transponder inside the key is for Immobilizer rolling codes, and gets active only in the EMF near the keyhole.

Originally Posted by alto99

After you lock the red blinker on console flashes with higher frequency than normal for about 10 secs. If you release the "button" within these 10 secs there wont be any alarm. Try releasing after 10 secs when the blinker blinks at a lower frequency and a alarm should sound. If it does not then there seems to be a issue with the system.

Originally Posted by skdking

Hello,
Initially I was left confused. But now I can say, very detailed instructions by you.

This is the valid scenario here.

As explained in my previous mail, on pressing the lock button on the remote the Vehicle theft Alram has to get to the state ARM for any tamper to trigger the alarm.

The moment you press the lock button on the key, the Body computer acknowledges to you by three Blinks on the blinker. Correspondingly there will be three blinks on the Vehicle Theft Alarm status LED in the console. This is just an acknowledgement that the user has asked for a Remote locking through the Key.

Then after Body Computer waits 5 seconds (indicated by 6 blinks on the Vehicle Theft Alarm status LED in the console).

After this only Vehicle Theft Alarm Status goes to ARM. Once the status is ARM, all alarms will be triggered off, either by unlocking the doors from insode or by trying to start the car.

If you attempt unlocking or starting before the acknowledgement and the wait period of 5 seconds, amounting to a total of just under 10seconds as alto99 inferred there will be no trigger of any alarm as the Vehicle Theft Alarm was not armed for the reaction.


Hope this helps.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by laluks

This is an experiment under progress with Ceramic pads. Its a complete DIY, as if you know the concept of changing the pads, they are very easy to DIY. Since I don't have any long distance runs for sometime, I am getting the experiments done. I will update if the experiment yields results.

I go to my FNG, and does the stuff myself. I visit them for the easy access of tools and the ramp

The issue as on date was identified to a small trapped sand particle between the pads.

The change of front brake pads with Ceramic pads seems to make the entire disc so hot, that even the alloys are hot to touch. So I checked for disc warping, changed directions of the pads, again checked for calliper pin movement and lubricated them again.

After a 20KM run, 30 minutes duration, average traffic drive, the alloys are quite hot (not warm) to touch.

Is this the Ceramic effect? Too much friction from the pads getting converted to heat?

The pads have now done 500KMs after install, and running hotter seems to be the feedback as of now. I dont like this, I'll try to investigate a bit more this weekend. My trusted SA says this is normal after a pad change. But how come I never noticed this before?

If it continues, that I'll move back to the semi metallic pads that Civic normally uses.

What are your experiences wrto heat after a brake pad change?

[srsriharsha]

Yesterday i noticed a strange thing, slight vibrations or jerking feel while idling in N or P gears. When i turned on AC it was not noticeable and the engine mount also seems fine.
Anyone else facing this? Should i get it checked ?

[spadix]

Originally Posted by srsriharsha

Yesterday i noticed a strange thing, slight vibrations or jerking feel while idling in N or P gears. When i turned on AC it was not noticeable and the engine mount also seems fine. Anyone else facing this? Should i get it checked ?

Do you sense the vibration only age the engine is cold or even after it has warmed up sufficiently? My car sometimes exhibits a slight (very slight) vibration when cold, but after a good run it's smooth. In fact there have been days out on the open road when at the end of the day, after 500+ kms, the engine noise and vibes are imperceptible at idle, just like showroom condition.

If it happens even after the engine has warmed up, you can get it checked.

Of course, there's no vibration at idle in a brand new car even when the engine is cold, so from that perspective there is something worth getting checked but HASS is so incompetent you'll just be wasting your time.

Regards,
spadix

[manim]

Originally Posted by laluks

What are your experiences wrto heat after a brake pad change?

I have replaced my front pads along with the rotors twice so far and I had never felt any difference after the change.

Honda user-manual advises to not use the brakes heavily for the first 150 kms after the change.

[srsriharsha]

My initial feeling was also same, engine not being sufficiently warm. It was just a 10 km drive and still and the end of i was able to feel it. Last month i had a 1000 km drive and i felt nothing. If i can feel it again next time i will get it checked

[Sushubh]

Not sure if this is a common issue, but i tried searching, couldnt find any answer to this query of mine.

Today my 12v lighter socket suddenly stopped working. My Belkin bluetooth kit is usually connected to it and to fill up air in the tyres, i unplugged bluetooth kit & connected the air compressor to it. It refused to start, i have successfully used the same compressor in the past with no issues.

I plugged the Blue tooth kit back and it was not drawing any power, even my mobile charger was not drawing any power from the socket. Is it a fuse issue or the socket is burnt?

There are no issues with other electricals, all bulbs and internal lights seems to work normally. Any help will be deeply appreciated.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by Sushubh

Is it a fuse issue or the socket is burnt?

There are no issues with other electricals, all bulbs and internal lights seems to work normally. Any help will be deeply appreciated.

Mostly looks like a fuse issue. Is your stereo still working? Manual says fuse 35 in the interior fuse box is the one for accessories and radio.
Also check fuse 29 if available.

[devsoftech]

Originally Posted by Arun Venugopal

My July 2006 S MT has the red blinker on the console indicating the security system being armed. How come yours doesn't, is it a busted LED?

Can someone kindly share a pic / encircle the console area that his. It could be busted LED, I'll be able to figure out only after reviewing an image of the same.

Meanwhile, when the car is parked, I am pulling out fuses proactively - #10 - 10A - Hazard and #12 - 15A - Stop, Horn from engine bay area. This is blocking the horn siren and turn indicators. I could not trace the security module. Is there a way to locate it. Some US 2006 CIVICs have mentioned the COBRA branded (OEM) security system installed at the boot. I removed all linings at the back and can safely rule that we do not have any such module installed at the rear for indian CIVICs. Now my only desire is to bypass security alarm and retain central locking (Untill the issue is fixed, pulling out fuses everyday is so old school).
Anyone aware of a fuse location or jumper shorting to bypass security system ?
I tried the front bonnet cable shorting technique, it does not seem to disable the security system. To add to trouble I do not even have this LED feedback about how this security module is working. I'll try a DIY to fix it first. But someone needs to help me in identifying the part with an image reference

[saurabhkum]

Was just checking replacement of brake pads for my AT as an preventive measure, the car has done around 46k kms. Checked with Shetty Motors as per them the Original Pads of Honda costs 6300 for front and 5700 for rear. They also have Nissin ( Japanase Manufactured) which is almost 50% of the price and some other Indian Manufactured which is just for 2k front and rear put together. Now for obvious reason will not like to go for the Indian Brand as I don't know how reliable it will be. I wanted to check how is the Nissin Brand? Is it a good brand and can give the same performance as Honda OEM or are there any other substitute available?

[coolkurt]

My 6.5 year old civic makes a creaking sound from the front when I negotiate it over speed breakers. The engine mount is fine. Suspension issues? Expected casualty at 83k kms?

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by Sushubh

Not sure if this is a common issue, but i tried searching, couldnt find any answer to this query of mine..

ONCE YOU HAVE POSTED THEN WHY A PM? This a very bad habit.

[Sushubh]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

ONCE YOU HAVE POSTED THEN WHY A PM? This a very bad habit.

My apologies Sir, didn't mean to offend you. I PM'ed you first and later thought i will post it also, as i thought it will be available for future searches for others who face the same issue. Didnt mean to offend you. Sorry again. Wont do it again.

[civic-dk]

This is my first post on team bhp. I have been going through the threads and have been benefiting immensely for last 3-4 years. Finally, I applied for membership to Team BHP and became a bonafide petrolhead in Aug-13 .

I have been planning to share my experience with my 1+ year ownership of a pre-worshipped Honda Civic for some time. The list of work done on the car during this period includes:

1. Installation of Map My India In-dash system along with JBL amplifier and Infinity Components in the front
2. Replacement of Engine Mount
3. Replacement of original Goodyear NCT tyres with Michelin XM2 size 205/65/R15
4. Adding Coil Spring Assisters to both the front and rear coils
5. Getting the car doors and bonnet damped

Will share my experience with some of them in later posts in the relevant threads.